    
 


   
     ,       .           ,     ,          ,       ,   , ,  ,    .     :          ,          .      ,     .     ,     . .       .

 . , 2018,     , 2018





 

    



 . , 2018

    , 2018


* * *







, --,  ,  , ࠖ  ,     ,   .    ,       ,  .   ,              .        ,      ,       ,         ,      ,      . ,       . Ƞ     !        , ,  ,  , ,  ,        reticella.         .     caf? au lait       .    , ,       .     , ,  .              ;        ,   ,   .        , 堖 .   ,    .        ;   -,   ,   .     .           . :  . , , //  . 1903. 46. .503. : Pauline Chase








     : ,    ꠖ     [1 -      . .: Lowes E.L. Chatson Old Lace and Needlework. London; New York, 1919. . 103104.]

      ,  .         ,     -   .   :  , ,   dArgentan    ,     .          ,      [2 -  //  . 1894. 7. .6566.].


  ?       .         ,        ,        .     :      .

  ,             ,   .




   

(costumology & fashion studies)


         ,       (      ). ,    - ,    ,  ,    ,   ,    ,    .     ,  .    [3 - Gautier Th. De la mode (1858). . : Fortassier R. Les ?crivains franais et lamode: de Balzac a nos jours. Paris, 1988. P.68.].    ,    ,    ,   . [4 -  //  . 1914. 2. .22.].

Ѡ     ,      (   , ,  ,   ,       ).  ,  ,  ,     -, , , ,      .              ,  젖 ,       .

    堖 costumology & fashion studies   .  , , ,          ( , , - ,  , ,  ,     .). ,        .     -   ,           .




 


           .. (1869), .. (1892, 1909, 1913), .. (1928), .. (1929), ..- (1925, 1941), .. (1956), .. (1959), .. .. (1982), .. (1983), .. (2010), .. (2010), .. (20042005, 2009, 2012), .. (2013) .       :      ,    ,   ,    ;       .

       . Ѡ1865       ,       .     ,      ,  ,        - .

       ,   ,       , -    ,   ,     ,  .

,             ,  ,  .     Belle poque,     , 蠫    .      ,        .




 


      [5 -    ,     .        .., .., .. ... .:  ..,  ..   .  . .:  , 1959. .185; ..    //  : , , . 20062007. 2. .23;  .. : -    . .: -, 2000.],    ,     ,     .       ().     ,    ( , ,  ,  );          - [6 - ... .:  .. . .16.].          ,    ,      .

   ,      - .             ,  .   ,    ,    .




 


       . ,   ,      :  .         :     ,  ,   -  頖 ,   ,    .

 ࠖ      ,    ,  ,      .         ,     .  ,   ,   ;        ,  .

        :  (    ) .       ;         .  ,   ,   .        .

     : ,     , 堖              ;             .     ࠖ , , , ,  .     ࠖ       .        ,   XVI.

    , ,    .        .        ,   ,      -.         . ʠ    ,      .             ,     .       ,  .

           :    (,  )  ,    ,     ,    .

    ࠖ  . ʠ     ,   , -   ,    ,    . ,  ,     蠫 ,  punto in aria.

     ,       ,     .      : , ,  .            :    ,   .         .

Ƞ,       .         ,     .       .

,    ,         .      ; 젖 .   ,    ; 蠖  .

      .        .  ,      .

  , , , ,   蠖    (   ).    ,    ,   .           (    );       ,     .

Ӡ    ,     ,  :      ,   ,    .    ,   ,     .

ʠ         ,           .      ,    ,    ,      .      ,  ,      .

    ,  , ,    , 頖          .      ,      ,  .     ,      .

,  ,  ,    .      (, , ,  ,  ),   (,   ),    ( , , ,  ),   (, , ,  ),     .

     ,  :   [7 -       :      ,       .           .           .   ,     ,      ;        .      蠖  , [ ]   .              ,     ,   ,       .     ,          .     . Ӡ      ,      . []     ,  ,  ..         ,  ,       .         ,          .   ,   ,    ,    ;     .        ,         . .:  .     //  . 1910. 18. .180.]  ,        .  ,  ,    .

,         ,   .       : ,          [8 -       .].

         [9 -  .:  ..,  ..       XVIII:       //  . 2015. 3(13). .92111.]:

1.   :

     (,  );

       (,  );

     (,  );

    (,  ).



,             .       ,  [10 -  .. . ., 2007. .176.],   ,     [11 -  ..   :   400    XVIII. ., 2010. .175, 177.],     :   [12 -  ..  XVII  XX. ., 1978. .22;  ..  . ., 1983. .303.], 렖  [13 -  ..             //        .   - , 2526 2011./ ., . ... .; .: -, 2011. .152;  ..    , , ,    . ., 1896. .50, 150;  ..    //  :     . .1/ . . ..  ., 1926. .121122.]. ,   ,    ,   (,   )[14 -  ..     XVI XVII . ., 1869. .655.].


2.,     :

    ( ),     ,    .  XVIIXVIII       ,      ,        .         .    XVIII  ,  堖 [15 -  ..    . .118.];

   蠖   ,    [16 -  ..   . ., 2004. .254;  .. ʠ     XIX//     2006-.  頖    .  . ., 2007. .409410.];

      ,     ,   .        .

         .     ,    ,   .          .

   ,   ,   ,  :    ,     ,  ? .

     ,   XVII,  .    ࠖ .   XIX  XX   ,    .

       .          .         1850-  1920- .

           .      .

       XIX,       .      :    ,   ,      ,   .

       ,     ,     ,     .         ,  .

   ,    (  ).        ,      .      ;            .     ,   .       ,    .                  .

      (    ,   )  (    ,             ).




 


    .       ,   ,  ,     ,    (),  ,    , -   .

            [17 -         .],  ,  ,  . ,       ,   ,      ,    .       .

       ;          . ,         ,      .            (, ,   ),  .

        .  ,     ,       (),      (),      (),     ().

      ,    . ,                        .. (1929).

      ,            ,      1860- .

        .     ,             -   .  ,         ;  ,      XIX  XX,          ,   .

,        : , , ,  [18 -    ,   1913.,     ,   ,     . .:     . - . .: , 2008. .374.].         .           [19 - ,         (Gustave Janet).],  ()  ,      .  ,         ,      .

           .     - (La Modiste universelle),        ,   .

     ,     .     ,       (Le Moniteur de la Mode) 蠫  (La Mode Illustr?e),   ,     ,           [20 -  //  . 1876. 1. .1.].        .   ,  -,      .

 ,     ,        蠫 ,        (La Revue de la Mode).  ,      (,   컠 Costume Royal)  (Harpers Bazaar, Vogue) . ,                .

                 ,   ,     .                 ,          .

 ,   ,  ,   ,         ,  .          ,         .

 ( )    -, -, -     ,    .         , ,   .

     ,   ,  .     ,   ,      ,      .

      - ,   ;       [21 -   :  ..     XVIII.     //  ࠖ  :    - . , 3  2016./ .  .. .: , 2016. .1618;  ..   XVIII  XX.     //        :  - , 2425  2015./ . .. ; . . .. . : . . -, 2015. .84102.].

,        ,     ,  .       .        .           . 1783.        , ,   ,   ,  ,      -  , - ,  . <>    , ,   : , ,  , ,   ,      , ,      17  .[22 -  ..  .  ,    . .1. ., 2013. .457458.] (      . ..).

     . ,    -                       27  1762    ,     ,   ,    , 100 .;   ,    ,  [23 -   .]  , 11 .;    ,       , 22     , , 13      3263 .[24 -   XVIII. -    / ., . . . .. . ., 2002. .408410.]

,        ,          XVIII. ,    .. ( ) 1744    ,    .    : 9    ,    4           ,  2  6    ,        , ,  .  14?471 .[25 -  XVIII.   .. //  . 1897. 11. .433440.]

           ( ).     頖 , ,    , ,     ,     [26 -   1717.//   ,   .. . .513.].

  ,       .             . ʠ ,  , -,  , -,   , -,     ,  ,     ,  [27 -      []//   .  21. ., 1881. C. 379382.],   (). Ӡ     -  -  [28 -  ..  . .458;  ,    //   ,   .. . C. 14.].

  ,      ,     .       ,     ,  ,     .      ,    .   ,   ,  ,     .

,    -      -    -     ,          ,    [29 -     -,  //  ..  : 5 . .1. ., 1880. .XXVII.].

              1717  : .     .        .    .     .     .   ,    .        (   . ..)[30 -   1717.//   ,   ... .7.].       :             : , ,    (   ).

 ,     ,  - ,   ,    ,    .     ,    ,  ,      - ;         .

         ,          ,       .

        , ,  .         , , ,   ,   , -.      ,      :   , ,   . .

 ,     , ,  ,    ,   .  ,   ,           ,          .




 1

  


 , ,    ,       ,  -  [31 -        ,     . .:  ..   XVIXIX.  . ., 1959. .3.],      XVXVI.            ,         [32 -      : Dillmont Th. Encyclopedia of Neeedlework. Newcastle-on-Tyne: T. Hunter, 1890.].

 .      [33 - Cole A.S.Ancient Needlepoint and Pillow Lace: With Notes on the History of Lace-making and descriptions of thirty examples. London, 1875. P.2.].      ,     ,      XVI;  ,  ,       [34 - Jourdain M. Old lace: ahandbook for collectors: an account of the different styles of lace, their history, characteristics & manufacture. London; New York, 1909. . 13.].

      ()    .    .      ,   .   ,  .       .

 .     punto tirato ( . tirare );     .

      ()  ,  ,        .   ,   ,      ;     , ,   ࠖ .        ,   .       .

       ,     (. ).    XII:      ,   .      ,      .        ;    ,        .          .

  ,    ,   ,  ,  ,       ,      .  ,         .            1600,    ,   .

     XVII,      ,  .         .      .

              .     XIX,         .       ,      Dresden point, Hamburg point, tonder lace.      indian work, 蠖 broderie de Nancy[35 - The Queen Lace Book. London, 1874. . 78.].

堖   ,       ;    .    ;    ,   .    ,   - .    ,       .

 ,      ,          . ,  ,    ,      [36 -  ..  XIIXIX. . ., 1961. .13.]       .

    ,       [37 - The Queen Lace Book. . 56.],     XVI.         (John Skelton [Shelton], 14631529)[38 - Jourdain M. Old lace: ahandbook for collectors. . 7.],    .   ,  1527,            [39 - Ibid.].     1520  1488[40 - Ibid.].     ,  ,    1550- ,    .   ,     ,    ,    .

 XVII,      ,     ,  ,      :  ,   ,  .     -;        [41 - Dillmont Th. Le Filet-Guipure. Mulhouse, 1870.].

        .      ,   , ,  蠖 ,  .       ,      ,   .

      XIXXX[42 -  ..,  ..   . ., 1957. .45.].       ,       ,    , []  ,  ,      .           -;        .   ,   ,    .        . ,   ,   [43 -   //  . 1913. 4. .31.].

   lacis[44 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. London, 1865. . 18.],    ,       .   ,   ,     [45 -  ..    - . ., 1978. .5052;    . ., 2000.].      .

   [46 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 49.],     [47 - Buratto   ,  .].        ,    .

 .   ,  (punto a groppo),     .     , -  , XIX .

      ;        [48 - Warnick K., Nilsson Sh. Legacy of Lace. Identifying, Collecting, and Preserving American Lace. New York, 1988. . 46.].  XVI,    ,    .          ,   (Donne, donzelle, con con gli huomini, 1530) ⠫    (IISpecchio di pensiere, delle belle donne dove si vede, 1544)[49 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 48.].

,   , ,   ,        , ,  ,    ,  .      ,      1493[50 -        / Angela & Ippolita Sforza Visconti. .: Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. London, 1869. . 51.],         .

 堖 ,       ,  , ,  ,   .      15501620- [51 - The Queen Lace Book. . 12.].

     .       ,    . 堖 ,    ,      .     ,      .      ,    ;  ,   堖  [52 -   . ., 1902. .321.].

   ,   ,        XVII. ,      1840- ,        ,   -,  [53 - The Queen Lace Book. . 13.].

   , ,     ,   .        [54 -     , , , ,  . .].  ,       ,       ,        [55 - Warnick K., Nilsson Sh. Legacy of Lace. . 44.].

        ,    ,  ,  .           ,  ;       .  ࠖ ,     ,       .     .

      (  , , ,  . .);         .          ,         .

.       [56 -     ,   ,      ,  1400  . .           (Petra Godskesen) 1880 1889    . .:  ..     . ., 2010. .43.].          ,  .     ,         .        ,   .        .  ࠖ ,  [57 -  . .39.].      ,       .   ,   ,  ,  ,          .

             .  ,   ,  .    700400-   . .    ,  500300-   . .[58 - Warnick K., Nilsson Sh. Legacy of Lace. . 62.]        [59 - Collingwood . The techniques of sprang: plaiting on stretched threads. New York, 1974. . 20, 23.].      : , , ,   , ,  .

 .                .      .      .

  蠖    : ,  ,   ,     ࠖ   broderie anglaise.       , ,      .

.          ,     .    ,    .

  堖    broderie anglaise.          蠫,         .      .

           .       ,  ,   .     ,    .     ,   ,   .     ,        .

         .

        - .      ,    .

  堖         .

     ,   ,      .        ,   .       .

        ,           .

  ,      ,    .      [60 -  .    . ʠ 5 ࠖ 31 2012/ . . , .. ., 2012. .3.].

 ࠖ    ,    .          .

(reticella)   ,     .    ,  ,  ;       . ,    rete(),   1591  [61 - Vecellio C. Corona delle nobili, et virtvose donne. Venetia, 1592.],          1587[62 - Vinciolo F. Les Singvliers Et Novveaux Povrtraicts. Venetia, 1587.].

        ,      ,       .     ,   .     , ,  ,      [63 - The Queen Lace Book. . 9.].

    ,      greek point laces.   ,      ,   ,  .

     1480- .        ,    ,   ;        .     ,   .

ʠ1493       [64 -        / Angela & Ippolita Sforza Visconti. .: Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1869. . 51.].     15701620- ,         , ,      .    ,  , ,       .       ,             .          ,  [65 - The Queen Lace Book. . 10.].

Ѡ XVI       . ʠ XVII      ,      .        ,  ;          XVIII[66 - Ibid.].           ,         .

ࠖ    punto tagliato  punto in aria,     .        .

Punto in aria              .         .   ,      ,  ,  .

     XVII;   ,  ,     .          . ,   , punto in aria        ,   .       ,      punto in aria. ʠ  ,   ,   ,  ,       punto in aria;        ࠖ   .    ,  punto in aria    ,      ,    .

,          [67 -  ..     . .18.], punto in aria       .

    ,   ,   XV.         1476[68 -  :  ..-   XIIIXVIII.//    . : . 2015. 4. .5474.],     ,     ,   ,    [69 - - .. -  XVII.//      XVIXIX.  . .XIII. ., 1941. .168.].   -    1493       ,     [70 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 55.].

  -      XVI,    . Ѡ   ,   -             ,     .

          : ,  .        XVIXVII,       XVIII.       ,    .

        ;         :  [ ]    :       ,     ,      [71 -  ..       ,  ,  ,    (1632 1682). ., 1844. .7.].       [72 -  ..  . ., 2007. .7, 147, 149.].

    ;            ,     ,    .   -      ,   II[73 -  ..   . ., 1983. .31.]   ,     [74 - - ..    XVIII.//   . ., 1925. .135.].

        ,     ,     [75 -  ..   //    .. . . . .5. ., 2012. .58; -  XVII  XX  - . / . . . . .. . ., 1993. .8992.].         .  1627       ,      ,  ,       ,  , , , ,  15   ,    [76 -  ..     XVI XVII . ., 1869. .629.].

     ,  ,      .     ,    ,   ,     .   -  (  ,    ,   )     ,    ,         .

     ,   point de Raguse point dEspagne,      ,    .

  -      ,   ,     .      ,   ,  (72 ),  (6)[77 -  ..     XVI XVII . .655;      1640. ., 2014. .81.]  . , XVII       -    1418 [78 -  ..       . , 1915. .144.].

   ,   ;             1820    [79 -  ..   . .20.].        [80 -  ໠    ,   .]; , ⠫  ,       1671       [81 -  ..     .123124.].

         ,    -   ,     -   .       [82 - ,    ,     . ,   (, ,    ),       . ,      - ,       .          .. . .:  ..  . 172417991899: 4 . .1. .372.      :    Π,    .      ,   , ,     ,       ,    ,      ,    . .:      17301801.  : 2. .2. .88.         ;        . ,      ,        ,      . .:  ..  -  . 17311848: 4 . . 1. ., 1849. .15.      . .:  ..    . 17301880. ., 1881. .5.],    ,  2 , 18 . (   .. ,  , 1744)[83 -  XVIII.   .. //  . 1897. 11. .440.].

    XVIII,        .         ,     .

    ,  ,      .        ,     .      [84 -  ..   . ., 1904. .59.]        2%[85 -  .. ʠ     XIX//     2006-.  頖    .  . ., 2007. .414.].

      ,       .         .            .

     .            ,    ,  ,   .     ,     ,   [86 -  ..   . .60.].                ,   ,             [87 -  . .5960.].

      ,  ,   ,    ( ,   -)      :  ,   ,   ,   ,    ,  [88 -  ..        15841725. ., 1877. .195.].

          ,          .         .          ,  ,   ⠖ ,      ,   [89 -  ..  . .133; - .. -  XVII. .183.]. ,   - ,    ,    [90 -  ..     .144; - .. -  XVII. .181;  ..   . .21.].

     ,  ,       ,     XVI, 蠖 XVII[91 -  ..,  ..       . -.  , 2009. .4647.].      .

        :   [92 - - .. -  XVII. .170177.],             .

         ,  XVXVI[93 -  ..,  ..   . ., 1982. .124.],   ,  ,       .

ʠ  ,  ,       ( 䠖  ,    ,     )    . Ѡ        ,   .   XVIII  ,  ,    ;    ,      .       [94 -  ..   . .26.].

  -       [95 -  . .31.];      ,  .        ,       .

        .      [96 - Palliser F.B. History of Lace. 1865. . 55.]       .    XV;    ,    ,    .   ,  1584   XVII    ,  ,    ,  .

       - ;     .   XVII          ,      , 堖   . Ѡ1660-       ,  ;      Milan point[97 - Kohlsaat A.M. Old lace manual. New York, 1910. . 22.].

      ,  ,   ,     .    ,   V ,   ,           ,     [98 - Jourdain M. Old lace: ahandbook for collectors: an account of the different styles of lace, their history, characteristics & manufacture. London; New York. . 34.].      : ,       III[99 - .];   ,    [100 -  I .],      [101 - Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. London; New York, 1900. . 182.].

-    XV;       .    ,    ,     ,   .     .     ,    ,     .  ,    XVIII,     .

[102 -    , .]    point de Raguse[103 - Palliser F.B. History of Lace. 1865. . 74.],    :   ,   [104 - - .. -  XVII. .177.]. ,      ,  , ,     ,        .   ,    ,    .    ,    ,     , ,   [105 - Earnshaw P.A Dictionary of Lace. New York, 1999. . 139.].

-  point de Raguse,    ,            1667.        ,    point dAurillac    [106 - Ibid. . 140.].                 . ,  ,  ,   ,  蠫[107 -  ..   . .59.   ,         .].

       ;      - ,   ,     .

         XVIII[108 -  .   ,  :    .].              ,   .        .        ,   .

     ,    ,      [109 - - .. -  XVII. .170.].      ,   ,     [110 -  . .183.],   .

,    , 3  1622      []   , ,    ;    ;    [111 -  ..     .145.].

     ,   -,  ,         [112 -  ..        (    XVIII.). ., 2011. .244.].

           ,  .         XV.        ;       ,     .

 -  ,  ,  .  , ,  ,    [113 - Jourdain M. Gold and Silver Lace// The Connoisseur. An Illustrated Magazine for Collectors. 1907. January April. . 29.].         .

      ;    ,    .         ,      -.    -    ,       .

      ,     .   ,   ,  ,   ,  [114 - Lowes E.L. Chats on Old Lace and Needlework. London; New York, 1919. . 133134.].      XIV  , ---,  .       ,  -       ⠖ .

      ,           ,     ,  point dEspagne.    ,  ,      ,      . ,          XIX  XX,          ,      [115 -  ..ʠ  :    XIX  XX .//  :    :  18- . . ./  . .. . ., 2015. .416.].

        point dEspagne,   ().        XVIIࠖ    XIV,   .

      ,       ࠖ   ,      .       [116 -  ..     .195;  ..    , , ,    . ., 1896. .52.].           ,    .

   point de Raguse  point de Venice   젖  ,  ,    .    ,  ,       .

         ,           [117 -   . ., 1902. .404.].      .

       XIII .      1252      :        [118 -  ..   . ., 1956. .5.].       1288,     :        [119 -  ..      .46.].

 ,       ,     ,  , ,      [120 -  .. .    .   . , 1929. .4.].

 , ,    , ,  , , , , ,  [121 -  ..      .46.].     ,      ,  ,   [122 -  ..   . .59.]:    , .  젖    [123 -  ..     .4.].

     -    .     ;       .    ,    ,       [124 -  ..     XVI XVII . .655.],    , , [125 -      1640. .82.]   . ,  ,        ,   , , ,  ,       : , , , , ,  . .,        ,   [126 -  ..    . .123.].

 -    ,  :  [ ]   ( ):  ,       [127 -  ..      .35.].   XVI  ,  XVII,      XVIII[128 -  ..    . .123.].

      蠖       ,     , , ,   .   ,    ,           ,       [129 -  .].

     ,  ,       [130 -  ..     XVI XVII . .623.],      . ,      1648    ,    [131 -  ..    , ,  .3, 87.].

   蠫  ,  :  , .   ,  ;   , ,    , 蠫  ,  ,  ,  ;    ,    .    [132 -  ..     .2, 3.].

    蠖        [133 -  ..    , ,  .33.].    ,  ,    ;  , ,   .   ,      [134 -  ..    . .123.].     (, , , ,  . .)   [135 -  ..     XVI XVII . .655.].

         .       : , , , ,  ,  , , ,  .[136 -  . .657;  ..   . ., 1955. .46, 48.]      ,   ,    [137 -  . .16.].

     ,      [138 -  ..     .123, 127.].       ,   (  ,   ) . Ѡ XVI       .

     ,      [139 -  ..   . .1618.].        ,    ,       , ,   [140 -  . .16.].

      (  ,    ), 頖 ,     [141 -  ..   . ., 2007. .58;  ..   . .13.].     : .  ,                ,   ,   [142 - ʠ     XVIII.    (  )//         . . 2. ., 1897. .5.].

     -          .        .        . ,           ,  [143 -  ..   . .14.];        [144 -  ..ʠ   .414.].   ,        -  . ,      ,       .

 ,      . ,  1613/14        16- ,         [145 -  ..     .106.]. 20  1626            ,   , 64  [146 -  . .245.].

  ,       ,   (   ),  (    ),  ( )  ( )


[147 -  ..       XVII.//      17  18 .    . ., 1928. .91.].     ,         [148 -  . .92.].

         .    1613/14       [ ] 14   .       [149 -  ..     .103.].  [  ]   ;   .     [150 -  ..   . .45.].      ,      [151 -  ..    , ,  .114.].

   1627     ,    ;       ,       , , , [152 -  ..     XVI XVII . .629.].    ,  ,     ,      ,        [153 -  . .589.].

      ;    , .           頖    ,  ,  .      ;   [154 -  ..     .90.].

,   ,    XVIXVII ( 蠖  XVIII )[155 -  ..   . .45;  ..    . .1 .];       X[156 -  ..   . .4, 45.].  ,   ,          .

        - .  ,      ( ,       ,   ),  ( )  (,  ),          .     ,       .       XVII.        ;      ,      [157 -  ..   . ., 2007. .43, 60;  ..   . ., 1983. .2125.].

      ,      XVII.        .     [] ,  ,    ,       .     .        ,     .         ,  . []     [158 -  ..  . ., 2007. .43.].  ,   ,   頖  ,  ,  .            ,      .

,       ,   ,         XVII[159 -  ..   . ., 1983. .21.].

      ,  ,       :   ,      [160 -  ..  ,    XVIII.,  . ., 1925. .5759, 64.].          ,  .      :  ,      ,  [161 - ʠ     XVIII. .29.];     [162 -  ..     XVI XVII . ., 1869. .636637.].  XVII           .

           .          [163 -  ..   . ., 2007. .14.],       [164 -  ..     XVI XVII . ., 1869. .221.].         [165 -  .     . ., 2015. .42.].  ,      [166 -   XV  XX     . ., 2000. .25.]      :      ,    ,    ,    [167 -  .. Π   . ., 1884. .10.].

Ѡ      [168 -  ,  , ,    ,            ( ,  ) - .] , ,  ,  ,    ,       ,  ;  ,     ,   ,     ;   ,  ,                      .     .      .  ,    ,             .   : ⠖ 75, ⠖ 65, ࠖ 130[169 -  ..   . ., 1955. .81, 139.].      XVII[170 -   :  ..    XVII.: -    //  ࠖ  :    - . , 3  2016./ .  .. .: , 2016. .1012.].

              XVII.    - , ,     . ,     ,     .       6  ,       ; 12  -  ,   ,      ,   .       ,    [171 -  .              1675.//    . 1837. 16. .364365.].

     :  [   ],   ,    .        , 堖  ,     ,  ;      ,      ,  ,     23 ,    ,       [172 -  .  , 16641665: . .: , 1996. .152.].

,   ,       .       ,     .     ,      .        頖       ,      [173 -  ..    , , ,    . ., 1896. .28.].    ⠫       1627:       ࠖ     ;    22  ,  25 ,  17 ;   [174 -  ..        15841725. ., 1877. .339.]. ,    ,           XVII      ໠   .

    ,      ; ,        XVI:  ,  , ,  [175 -  ..     .2.]. -         [176 - - .. -  XVII. .183.].

       .     :      ,    [177 -  ..     .150, 344, 354.].

      ,   [178 -  ..   . .1214;  .. . .5;  ..   . .2125.].             . ,           [179 -  ..     XVI XVII . .638.].

        , ,    [180 -  ..    , ,  .117, 123;  ..   . .80.].    ,       ,   .       ;       ,       [181 -  ..     XVI XVII . .634.].       ( )    ,   ,    [182 -  . .636.].

        ,     [183 -      1640. ., 2014. .82.]:   ,     ;  , , [184 -  ..     .300.].

      .   (  )   ,   (  ,   )  ,     컠   [185 -  ..      .46.].    ,     . , 1626        ,   53         64   [186 -  ..     XVI XVII . .631.].

   ,      ,   XVI.        XV[187 -  ..   . .5.];     [188 -  ..,  ..   . .151.].             ,  ;     ;    ,   ,   ;    , ,  [189 -  ..     .144, 333.].

    -          XVII. ,       1624/25,           .       : .       , 堖   [190 -  ..     .242, 243.].

        ,       .        :  ,   ,  , ,  .[191 -  ..  ,    XVIII.,  . ., 1925. .8, 15, 2729, 41, 4445, 48.]     .

     ,          ;     ,         [192 - Jourdain M. Gold and Silver Lace. . 27.].

-         ,      XVII   XVIII .        , 16131614     ,    (14- )    . <>     :    ,      4   .         ,     [193 -  ..     .103, 108.].  16241625         [194 -  . .242.].

       ;         [195 -  .. . .9.].     . ,        ,      [196 -  ..,  ..   . .151; ..   . .23.].

       -    ,       .     1575[197 - - .. -  XVII. .180.]:   ,   ,  . ,    1657     ,      [198 -  ..     .99.].

   XVII -    ,     .    ,     1671 ,        185 27   4    [199 -  ..     .123.].  1672    70  24     , 1673  2  8     [200 -  . .127, 133.].

ʠ XVIIXVIII     .        . ,            .   [201 -   ,   II.]      :   ,       .                      [202 -  1721-頖  1742. .:  ..   .100, 154, 166, 233, 7.].

XVII      ,   .        . ʠ     -    : , , .           .

  XVIII       . ,            1725   .. [203 -  ..    :      XVIII. ., 2007. .337.],     컠    1742  - .. [204 -   XVIII. -    / ., . . . .. . ., 2002. .303.].

   XVIII      . , ⠫        1710    ,  ,  [205 -  ..     . ., 1872. .76.].

ʠ XVIII       ;       ,  [206 -  ..   . .31.].

  -    XVIII.         :     .        ,     ,    .         .

    XVIII   ,   [207 - -  XVII  XX .9.]  [208 -  ..,  ..   . .132.],           . ʠ XVIII       ,       .

            ;      -,   .           ,     .     ,      ,     .




 2

   



         ,        .       ,    ,  ,    .




  


,  , ,   ,   [209 -      1 () 4 ().]. ,       ,     IX.       -  ;       1390[210 - Jourdain M. Old lace: ahandbook for collectors. London; New York, 1909. . 12.].   ,         .

        1493[211 -        / Angela & Ippolita Sforza Visconti. .: Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. London, 1869. . 51.].      [212 - La Serenissima, Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia   .   VII 1797.]        .

   ,   ,         .        ;  ,    , , ,    .          .

    [213 - Vinciolo F. Les Singvliers Et Novveaux Povrtraicts. Venetia, 1587.], [214 - Vecellio C. Corona delle nobili, et virtvose donne. Venetia, 1592; Vecellio C. Ornamento nobile per ogni gentil matrona. Venetia, 1596.]  [215 - Parasole I. Specchio delle virtuose dame. Roma, 1595; Parasole I. Le studio delle virtuose dame. Roma, 1597; Parasole I. Pretiosa gemma delle virtuose dame. Roma, 1598.]   .   ,     , ,  [216 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1869. . 412423.].

         :   ,         1587 1658,  ,          .       ,    . ,      , ,        :  ,  ,     [217 - Vinciolo F. Les Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtraicts// Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery and Needlepoint. Facsimile 1587/ With a preface by E. Ricci. New York, 1971. .V.].

        ࠖ  ;        ,       .     punto in aria,          .   venetian point, rose point, point neige, gros point de Venise point plat de Venise       .

    XVIXVII.         ,    ,   .      蠖          ,  .

   venetian point ? r?seau      ,     ,   .        XVIII,    .

 ,     punto in aria   venetian point[218 - ., . punto tagliato a foliami.].

.  ,    .

 .   𻠖 , ,   ,   .

.     .

.   XVI.

.          :            ,   .    (Caterina Maria Romola di Lorenzo de Medici, 1533      II),  ,    ,      point de Medicis in Paris.

Rose point[219 - ., . punto tagliato a foliami, punto a rilievo.] ,    punto in aria. Rose Point          : -,   , -,  , -,  .

.  ,    .

 .  [220 - Earnshaw P.A Dictionary of Lace. New York, 1999. . 147148.] rose point      .      ;       .       ,      .      ,         ,  point neige.

    ,   ,       [221 - Jourdain M. Old Lace. A Handbook for Collectors. London, 1908. . 5.].

.   rose point   ,      .        punto in aria,   rose point   .          ,    ,  .

Point neige[222 - ., . Punto tagliato a foliami, punto a rilievo.]  ,         .

.  ,    .

 .  point neige  :   ,   , S-  .    ;    ,  [223 - Pollen J.H. Seven centuries of lace. London; New York, 1908. . 13.].

.  ;   . ,   rose point,  .  ,       gros point de Venise,     .      ,  .   ,   ;   .

.  point neige    16501720- ,       .

Gros point de Venise[224 - ., . punto tagliato a foliami.]     ,    .

.  ,    .

  .       .        [225 - Kohlsaat A.M. Old lace manual. New York, 1910. . 30.]     (    ),    .      , .   ,   ,     .

.  gros point  1620- , 1650-     ,    1670- .       .   gros point XIX  XX.

.    rose point gros point de Venise          .        :           ,  ,   ,        .

Point plat de Venise[226 - ., . punto tagliato a foliami.]  ,  rose point.

.  ,    .

 .   ,  rose point    ,      .

.  ,   ,   ;    .

.       XVII  XVIII,     coralline[227 - Ibid. . 14.]. ࠖ      ;    ,  ,   [228 - Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. London; New York, 1900. . 137.],     .      ,    .

. Point plat de Venise        . Ѡ XVII        .      ,     ,         .

              .      ,     ⠫ 廠  .          ,        ,   .




  


              (point dAlen?on).

.  1850-        , ,   ,       .   XIX  XX,     ,      .

    .                  [229 - ,    1867      ,      ,    . .:  / . .. //     . .VI. .II.   . .: . .. , 1880. .68.].        ,     .     ,           .

         .   ,     (Marthe Laperriere),  , 蠖  . ,     ,     .

     ,       ,     ,      . ,         [230 -   . .: Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 207.],          .     ,      .

.          .   ,       ,     ,      .






  . .  



    , , ,            .       ;   ()    :  ,   ()   ().    ,   ;     .

   堖  ,    . ,        ,    .       ,     .             ;    .

     ,     ,  ,    .          ,          .

   ,     ,       .      : ,   XIX,   ,     . Ѡ1836        ;     .

Ѡ1811       ; 1855        .

.    1650,  ,    XIV,        ,        (Chateau de LOnray)      .    :      point coupe       .      ,    ,     ,       ,     .

    .  1667       .          [231 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1869. . 131132.].

 ,    ,      .       ,       ,   ,  .

 1678    ,      .     point de France.       ,  ,     ,      ,    [232 - Jourdain M. Old Lace. A Handbook for Collectors. London, 1908. . 64.].        .   ,  ,   ,  points de Venise,         [233 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. London, 1865. . 51.].

       ,      ,     ;         point dAlen?on.

      [234 - Duval L. Documents pour servir ? lhistoire de la fabrication du point dAlen?on. Alen?on, 1883. . 10.].       ,    ,        .       :    ,        ,  ,   .

.         ,    .              .        [235 - Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 107.], ,    ,     ,  ,     ,   .  1722    ,   .         : ࠖ , ࠖ [236 - Duval L. Documents pour servir ? lhistoire . 144.].

        ,        , ,  ,  .      ,   , ,               .

     18101820- .     I, ,       ,     .

, ,     1850- .        ,  1880-    ,       .

       ,   ,   .   (point dArgentan),   .

.     ;    .

 .     ,     ,  .  ,  ,    point de France[237 - Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 113.],     . ,       .

    ,       .      ,   ,    -   .       ( . ?pingle ),     ,  ,     .   堖   ( . boucle ),     [238 - Ibid.].     [239 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 191.].

.      ,     ,  point dAlen?on.  ࠖ  , ,  .       .

.      .       XIV (16431715).     ,  ,    [240 - The Queen Lace Book: A Historical and Descriptive Account of the Hand-Made Antique Laces of All Countries. London, 1874. . 29.].  XVIII   ;       .

ʠ      ,     .  (point de Sedan)  ,       [241 -   ,           .      .].

.     .   XVIII       ,   [242 - Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. Le Puy-en-Velay, 1979. . 68.]; ,   ,      [243 -   1705 1709. .: Ibid. . 72.]      . ,    ,  .     , ,  堖  [244 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 230.].

 .    ,    .   ,     .

.    ,   ,      point de France[245 - Ibid. . 229; Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. . 73.].    ,     ,      [246 - Earnshaw P.A Dictionary of Lace. . 132.].   point de Sedan    ,      .     ,   .       .

.        1665[247 - Lef?bure E. Broderie et dentelles. Paris, 1887. . 227.].     ,    ,       XIV.

         ,        ,  ,  , ,  .  ,      ,  -.              (Charleville, Donchery, Mezieres, Chateau-Renaud   )[248 - Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. . 68.].

      [249 -      , , , , -, , , . .: Ibid.],          .    ,     XVI  ,    ,     [250 -      .]   .      1642. Ѡ   1685            .

     .    [251 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 230.];    , ,    ,     .

          .     ,     , .

.        .  ,   ,      .




   


         ,     .  ,      XVI.        ࠖ    ,  LePompe 1559; 1596      (Giacomo Franco. Nuova Inventione)      [252 - Earnshaw P.A Dictionary of Lace. . 19; Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 125.].

   ,   bone lace (   ), ,  , .     ,           [253 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 270.];     .

   1490- ,     [254 - Earnshaw P.A Dictionary of Lace. . 153.].       passamenterie (- ),      ,            ,   LePompe.         XV.

 LePompe  :      .        .    ,   ,  ,    .

         .

 16301660-     ,    .   1700ࠖ  ,  ,     .      , 堖  .

   XVIII    ,       蠖 ,   ,  .   ࠖ , , .        ,      [255 -      ,            ,      .].   ࠖ     .

ʠ1780-       ,          ( ,    ).

   (17901825)   ,    ,    ,      .

   XIX      ;        .    ,     ,  ,    .   XIX  XX    .           .

         (valenciennes).    (,  ) ,    :     ,    .

           ,   .           .

 .      ,          .     -       [256 -  ,    . ,  ,   ,    70  120   (23). .: Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1869. . 200.].         .

     ,     . ,             .             (  ) .

       , ,      ,     .  ,              ,      ,        .

.    ,  . ,    ;        ,      .   ,    ,   ;    .          (fond de neige) 蠫  (oeil de perdrix),         ,  .    ,  .

       ,       .  XVIII        ,    .        , 堖   .         ,   .

.         .      1365[257 - Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. . 46.], ࠖ XV. Ѡ XVII         (Mlle Fran?oise Badard);     [258 -   1639 1644     (. Anvers). .: Ibid. P.48.].       ,   [259 -     . .: Ibid. . 47.]   ,          .

Ѡ1678[260 -    1678.]     ,  XVIII    . ʠ 1710-       ,   .        (vraie valenciennes),       ,      .      (fausse valenciennes).      1725- 1780- ,   ?         .

         ,    ,   ,         .

           .        , , , ,  [261 - Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 203.],          . Ѡ         ; ,     .

      XIX;    ,   ,  .

.  ,    [262 -     ,   ,  ,    ?  .]      .         -  .           . ,  ,   ,       ,    .        .    ,  ,    .          .

           ( , chantilly), ,  ,  ,  .

       (grenadine dalais) ,     . Ѡ1740    [263 - Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 135.].

 .    ,     .          ,       .          .       .      ;    - ,  .

  ࠖ      蠖  1758,              ,   point de racroc,  raccroc.          .

.   ,     , , .      , , ,   ,  .   蠖  (),    ;    ,  [264 - Pollen J.H. Seven centuries of lace. . 16.].

.       (Anne Genevi?ve de Bourbon)  XVII  ,    .           (Marie Aim?e de Rohan)[265 -   .       .],         .          .          ,     ,  [266 - Kellogg Ch. Bobbins of Belgium. London; New York, 1920. . 127.].

     ;       .      ,       ,      .

  XVIII      .       ,     [267 -       :    .        , 1870-    .].

 18041815   ,    I ,        .        .     ,   ,  , , ,  .

Ѡ 1830-      .       ;        [268 - Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. . 85, 98.].

    18501870- ,     .        ,   , , , , .          :             ,    ;     ,   cambrai (  . ..).    [269 - //  . 1862. 11. .254.].

      ,         , ,  .          (Pierre Landry),       .

       , 1870    ,       . Ѡ        ,          .

    ;        ;            .         !           : -, ,     .          ,          .      ,    .  ,      ,     ,    ,     ,    ?      [270 -  //  . 1910. 22. .209.].

         XX           ,       .

.         .          .      [271 -     .],    ,           .          .

  ,  [272 - La dentelle de Blonde.],    .         .

             ( ) ,  .        ,  .        .

     ,         ,   ,   . ,      ,     .    , XIX,    .       [273 -  ..   . ., 1983. .55.].

 .          ,        point de racroc.   ,           ,     .

    ,    ,          ,   .       ,   ,   ࠖ  ,       .      ,    ,       .

Ѡ  XIX      ,  .      ,   ,  ( lace curtain), -   [274 - Earnshaw P.How to Recognize Machine Laces. Berkeley, 1995. . 5355.].         .       .

.     ࠖ      .  ࠖ , ,       ,    .

.   1745[275 - Jackson N.F. A History of Handmade Lace. P.120.].      , , , [276 - Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. . 23; Lowes E.L. Chats on Old Lace and Needlework. London; New York, 1919. . 97.],         . -         ,   ,  ,   , ,  .

   .               .        .

  [277 - , .: Ashley E.L. Spanish Blonde Lace// Antiques. 1922. Vol.2. August. P.5859.],    ,  ,    ,   .      XIV.    ,   ,   ,   . ,    ,    , , .

        .                .

       :    ,  .           ;    .

.       ,      .

     ,       ,  (. Mechelen, . Malines)  ,   .         Queen of Laces  [278 - Jackson N.F. A History of Handmade Lace. P.124.].

.      .

 .   ;      -   .

.     ,   .          ,      ,   .        (oeil de perdrix) 蠫 (fond de neige),   .

    .  ⠖ .            ;      .       .        ,   ,   ,     .

.   ࠖ   1665[279 - Ibid. P.181.]; 1681           .    ;      .       蠖  ,    .             [280 -  ..   . .86, 93.].

.         .      XVIII,    :  ,  .       ,   ,       [281 - 5000years of textiles/ d. by J. Harris. London, 2010. P.219.].   ,  ,         (lappets)[282 - .:   A Glossary Relating to Hand-made Lace and Needlework.].

    ;           ,      -    .




  ,   


        (bucks, bucks point, buckinghamshire point).

.    .

 .   ,    ,  .

.           ,    堖  ;        .  , ,   ,    .    .

.     XVI;   4- 2-     (16001602),     [283 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 270.]:

		, ,    ! 
		, , , .
		,  ,
		Ƞ,   ,
		 ;   
		Ƞ  ,  [284 -  .  ,   //  .   8 ./ . . . ., 1994. .3. .367.].

ʠ1623        bucks point[285 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1869. . 329.].    ,  .      XVII     .

      (Buckinghamshire) - ;  Bucks     .       .

   ,               ,    - .   (honiton).

.  ,      [286 - Jackson N.F. A History of Handmade Lace. P.170.].          ,      . ,     ,     ,    ,  ,     .

 .   .     ,    :  ,    .

        ,    .     .        (   ),    .

Ѡ1845      , ,    ,  .    .

      ,   .     :         ,   .

.        ,  ,    . Ѡ1860-     ,    .

.          -,      15681577.    ,  .      .      XVII  XVIII.

.             ,       ,  .         .

   ,   ,     ,    1840   [287 - Ibid.].                     1862 1863 [288 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 383; Yallop H.J. The History of the Honiton Lace Industry. Exeter: University of Exeter Press, 1992. . 124125.].

  XVIII   XIX,         .

       (maltese)   ,      .

.         , 堖   ,      ,     ໠   [289 - Lowes E.L. Chats on Old Lace and Needlework. . 138.]. ,     ,       ,  ,  [290 - Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 180.].

 . ,   .       (. );      ,      -.

.        .   ꠖ   ,  ,      .   ,          XVI[291 - Ibid.].

. ,    ,   XIX,     [292 -      18001964.].       1851,    .    ,        ,   [293 -     .],   .

.          .            .           ,    , ,  .

       (bedfordshire)  ,      , .

.      .

 .   .     ,  ,   .   ,    ,    ,     .

.        [294 - Toomer H. Antique Lace: Identifying Types and Techniques. Atglen, 2001. . 223.].       ,   ,   ,      .       ,    ,   ;         .

    .            1851,  [295 - Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 365.],           [296 -       236 301. .: Official Catalogue of the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All of All Nations 1851. Cambridge, 2011. . 100, 101.].   1862   ,    (  ),  -.  1865,     ,   .  ,       ,  [297 -      .  1861   6714 , 1871-젖 6051 .  1891  3376 ,   ,  . .: Verdon N. Rural Women Workers in Nineteenth-century England: Gender, Work and Wages. Suffolk, 2002. . 153154.].

.       .      ,       ,       ,            .

  ,  ,   ,    .           (irish crochet, crocheted lace)     .

.          ,    .

 .       .              .          .

.      [298 - Arcy D.E. Irish Crochet Lace: Motifs from County Monaghan. 2nd ed. Buckinghamshire, 2003.],     堖  .

.      XIX,  :          XVI.     ,           [299 - Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 140.]. ,   ,     ,    ;  ,     ,  .

.         XIX  XX,    ,          .       ,     .

      (Schiffli).

       (youghal, irish point, . point dIrlande),     .

.   .

 .   ,  .     ;    컠  .       ;    .   ,       [300 - Earnshaw P.Youghal and other Irish laces. Guildford, 1988. . 16.]




  .


   .

   ,     (https://www.litres.ru/bella-shapiro/istoriya-kruzheva-kak-kulturnyy-tekst/)  .

      Visa, MasterCard, Maestro,    ,   ,     ,  PayPal, WebMoney, ., QIWI ,       .



notes








1


     . .: Lowes E.L. Chatson Old Lace and Needlework. London; New York, 1919. . 103104.




2


 //  . 1894. 7. .6566.




3


Gautier Th. De la mode (1858). . : Fortassier R. Les ?crivains franais et lamode: de Balzac a nos jours. Paris, 1988. P.68.




4


 //  . 1914. 2. .22.




5


   ,     .        .., .., .. ... .:  ..,  ..   .  . .:  , 1959. .185; ..    //  : , , . 20062007. 2. .23;  .. : -    . .: -, 2000.




6


... .:  .. . .16.




7


      :      ,       .           .           .   ,     ,      ;        .      蠖  , [ ]   .              ,     ,   ,       .     ,          .     . Ӡ      ,      . []     ,  ,  ..         ,  ,       .         ,          .   ,   ,    ,    ;     .        ,         . .:  .     //  . 1910. 18. .180.




8


      .




9


 .:  ..,  ..       XVIII:       //  . 2015. 3(13). .92111.




10


 .. . ., 2007. .176.




11


 ..   :   400    XVIII. ., 2010. .175, 177.




12


 ..  XVII  XX. ., 1978. .22;  ..  . ., 1983. .303.




13


 ..             //        .   - , 2526 2011./ ., . ... .; .: -, 2011. .152;  ..    , , ,    . ., 1896. .50, 150;  ..    //  :     . .1/ . . ..  ., 1926. .121122.




14


 ..     XVI XVII . ., 1869. .655.




15


 ..    . .118.




16


 ..   . ., 2004. .254;  .. ʠ     XIX//     2006-.  頖    .  . ., 2007. .409410.




17


        .




18


   ,   1913.,     ,   ,     . .:     . - . .: , 2008. .374.




19


,         (Gustave Janet).




20


 //  . 1876. 1. .1.




21


  :  ..     XVIII.     //  ࠖ  :    - . , 3  2016./ .  .. .: , 2016. .1618;  ..   XVIII  XX.     //        :  - , 2425  2015./ . .. ; . . .. . : . . -, 2015. .84102.




22


 ..  .  ,    . .1. ., 2013. .457458.




23


  .




24


  XVIII. -    / ., . . . .. . ., 2002. .408410.




25


 XVIII.   .. //  . 1897. 11. .433440.




26


  1717.//   ,   .. . .513.




27


     []//   .  21. ., 1881. C. 379382.




28


 ..  . .458;  ,    //   ,   .. . C. 14.




29


    -,  //  ..  : 5 . .1. ., 1880. .XXVII.




30


  1717.//   ,   ... .7.




31


       ,     . .:  ..   XVIXIX.  . ., 1959. .3.




32


     : Dillmont Th. Encyclopedia of Neeedlework. Newcastle-on-Tyne: T. Hunter, 1890.




33


Cole A.S.Ancient Needlepoint and Pillow Lace: With Notes on the History of Lace-making and descriptions of thirty examples. London, 1875. P.2.




34


Jourdain M. Old lace: ahandbook for collectors: an account of the different styles of lace, their history, characteristics & manufacture. London; New York, 1909. . 13.




35


The Queen Lace Book. London, 1874. . 78.




36


 ..  XIIXIX. . ., 1961. .13.




37


The Queen Lace Book. . 56.




38


Jourdain M. Old lace: ahandbook for collectors. . 7.




39


Ibid.




40


Ibid.




41


Dillmont Th. Le Filet-Guipure. Mulhouse, 1870.




42


 ..,  ..   . ., 1957. .45.




43


  //  . 1913. 4. .31.




44


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. London, 1865. . 18.




45


 ..    - . ., 1978. .5052;    . ., 2000.




46


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 49.




47


Buratto   ,  .




48


Warnick K., Nilsson Sh. Legacy of Lace. Identifying, Collecting, and Preserving American Lace. New York, 1988. . 46.




49


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 48.




50


       / Angela & Ippolita Sforza Visconti. .: Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. London, 1869. . 51.




51


The Queen Lace Book. . 12.




52


  . ., 1902. .321.




53


The Queen Lace Book. . 13.




54


    , , , ,  . .




55


Warnick K., Nilsson Sh. Legacy of Lace. . 44.




56


    ,   ,      ,  1400  . .           (Petra Godskesen) 1880 1889    . .:  ..     . ., 2010. .43.




57


 . .39.




58


Warnick K., Nilsson Sh. Legacy of Lace. . 62.




59


Collingwood . The techniques of sprang: plaiting on stretched threads. New York, 1974. . 20, 23.




60


 .    . ʠ 5 ࠖ 31 2012/ . . , .. ., 2012. .3.




61


Vecellio C. Corona delle nobili, et virtvose donne. Venetia, 1592.




62


Vinciolo F. Les Singvliers Et Novveaux Povrtraicts. Venetia, 1587.




63


The Queen Lace Book. . 9.




64


       / Angela & Ippolita Sforza Visconti. .: Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1869. . 51.




65


The Queen Lace Book. . 10.




66


Ibid.




67


 ..     . .18.




68


 :  ..-   XIIIXVIII.//    . : . 2015. 4. .5474.




69


- .. -  XVII.//      XVIXIX.  . .XIII. ., 1941. .168.




70


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 55.




71


 ..       ,  ,  ,    (1632 1682). ., 1844. .7.




72


 ..  . ., 2007. .7, 147, 149.




73


 ..   . ., 1983. .31.




74


- ..    XVIII.//   . ., 1925. .135.




75


 ..   //    .. . . . .5. ., 2012. .58; -  XVII  XX  - . / . . . . .. . ., 1993. .8992.




76


 ..     XVI XVII . ., 1869. .629.




77


 ..     XVI XVII . .655;      1640. ., 2014. .81.




78


 ..       . , 1915. .144.




79


 ..   . .20.




80


 ໠    ,   .




81


 ..     .123124.




82


,    ,     . ,   (, ,    ),       . ,      - ,       .          .. . .:  ..  . 172417991899: 4 . .1. .372.      :    Π,    .      ,   , ,     ,       ,    ,      ,    . .:      17301801.  : 2. .2. .88.         ;        . ,      ,        ,      . .:  ..  -  . 17311848: 4 . . 1. ., 1849. .15.      . .:  ..    . 17301880. ., 1881. .5.




83


 XVIII.   .. //  . 1897. 11. .440.




84


 ..   . ., 1904. .59.




85


 .. ʠ     XIX//     2006-.  頖    .  . ., 2007. .414.




86


 ..   . .60.




87


 . .5960.




88


 ..        15841725. ., 1877. .195.




89


 ..  . .133; - .. -  XVII. .183.




90


 ..     .144; - .. -  XVII. .181;  ..   . .21.




91


 ..,  ..       . -.  , 2009. .4647.




92


- .. -  XVII. .170177.




93


 ..,  ..   . ., 1982. .124.




94


 ..   . .26.




95


 . .31.




96


Palliser F.B. History of Lace. 1865. . 55.




97


Kohlsaat A.M. Old lace manual. New York, 1910. . 22.




98


Jourdain M. Old lace: ahandbook for collectors: an account of the different styles of lace, their history, characteristics & manufacture. London; New York. . 34.




99


.




100


 I .




101


Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. London; New York, 1900. . 182.




102


   , .




103


Palliser F.B. History of Lace. 1865. . 74.




104


- .. -  XVII. .177.




105


Earnshaw P.A Dictionary of Lace. New York, 1999. . 139.




106


Ibid. . 140.




107


 ..   . .59.   ,         .




108


 .   ,  :    .




109


- .. -  XVII. .170.




110


 . .183.




111


 ..     .145.




112


 ..        (    XVIII.). ., 2011. .244.




113


Jourdain M. Gold and Silver Lace// The Connoisseur. An Illustrated Magazine for Collectors. 1907. January April. . 29.




114


Lowes E.L. Chats on Old Lace and Needlework. London; New York, 1919. . 133134.




115


 ..ʠ  :    XIX  XX .//  :    :  18- . . ./  . .. . ., 2015. .416.




116


 ..     .195;  ..    , , ,    . ., 1896. .52.




117


  . ., 1902. .404.




118


 ..   . ., 1956. .5.




119


 ..      .46.




120


 .. .    .   . , 1929. .4.




121


 ..      .46.




122


 ..   . .59.




123


 ..     .4.




124


 ..     XVI XVII . .655.




125


     1640. .82.




126


 ..    . .123.




127


 ..      .35.




128


 ..    . .123.




129


 .




130


 ..     XVI XVII . .623.




131


 ..    , ,  .3, 87.




132


 ..     .2, 3.




133


 ..    , ,  .33.




134


 ..    . .123.




135


 ..     XVI XVII . .655.




136


 . .657;  ..   . ., 1955. .46, 48.




137


 . .16.




138


 ..     .123, 127.




139


 ..   . .1618.




140


 . .16.




141


 ..   . ., 2007. .58;  ..   . .13.




142


ʠ     XVIII.    (  )//         . . 2. ., 1897. .5.




143


 ..   . .14.




144


 ..ʠ   .414.




145


 ..     .106.




146


 . .245.




147


 ..       XVII.//      17  18 .    . ., 1928. .91.




148


 . .92.




149


 ..     .103.




150


 ..   . .45.




151


 ..    , ,  .114.




152


 ..     XVI XVII . .629.




153


 . .589.




154


 ..     .90.




155


 ..   . .45;  ..    . .1 .




156


 ..   . .4, 45.




157


 ..   . ., 2007. .43, 60;  ..   . ., 1983. .2125.




158


 ..  . ., 2007. .43.




159


 ..   . ., 1983. .21.




160


 ..  ,    XVIII.,  . ., 1925. .5759, 64.




161


ʠ     XVIII. .29.




162


 ..     XVI XVII . ., 1869. .636637.




163


 ..   . ., 2007. .14.




164


 ..     XVI XVII . ., 1869. .221.




165


 .     . ., 2015. .42.




166


  XV  XX     . ., 2000. .25.




167


 .. Π   . ., 1884. .10.




168


 ,  , ,    ,            ( ,  ) - .




169


 ..   . ., 1955. .81, 139.




170


  :  ..    XVII.: -    //  ࠖ  :    - . , 3  2016./ .  .. .: , 2016. .1012.




171


 .              1675.//    . 1837. 16. .364365.




172


 .  , 16641665: . .: , 1996. .152.




173


 ..    , , ,    . ., 1896. .28.




174


 ..        15841725. ., 1877. .339.




175


 ..     .2.




176


- .. -  XVII. .183.




177


 ..     .150, 344, 354.




178


 ..   . .1214;  .. . .5;  ..   . .2125.




179


 ..     XVI XVII . .638.




180


 ..    , ,  .117, 123;  ..   . .80.




181


 ..     XVI XVII . .634.




182


 . .636.




183


     1640. ., 2014. .82.




184


 ..     .300.




185


 ..      .46.




186


 ..     XVI XVII . .631.




187


 ..   . .5.




188


 ..,  ..   . .151.




189


 ..     .144, 333.




190


 ..     .242, 243.




191


 ..  ,    XVIII.,  . ., 1925. .8, 15, 2729, 41, 4445, 48.




192


Jourdain M. Gold and Silver Lace. . 27.




193


 ..     .103, 108.




194


 . .242.




195


 .. . .9.




196


 ..,  ..   . .151; ..   . .23.




197


- .. -  XVII. .180.




198


 ..     .99.




199


 ..     .123.




200


 . .127, 133.




201


  ,   II.




202


 1721-頖  1742. .:  ..   .100, 154, 166, 233, 7.




203


 ..    :      XVIII. ., 2007. .337.




204


  XVIII. -    / ., . . . .. . ., 2002. .303.




205


 ..     . ., 1872. .76.




206


 ..   . .31.




207


-  XVII  XX .9.




208


 ..,  ..   . .132.




209


     1 () 4 ().




210


Jourdain M. Old lace: ahandbook for collectors. London; New York, 1909. . 12.




211


       / Angela & Ippolita Sforza Visconti. .: Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. London, 1869. . 51.




212


La Serenissima, Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia   .   VII 1797.




213


Vinciolo F. Les Singvliers Et Novveaux Povrtraicts. Venetia, 1587.




214


Vecellio C. Corona delle nobili, et virtvose donne. Venetia, 1592; Vecellio C. Ornamento nobile per ogni gentil matrona. Venetia, 1596.




215


Parasole I. Specchio delle virtuose dame. Roma, 1595; Parasole I. Le studio delle virtuose dame. Roma, 1597; Parasole I. Pretiosa gemma delle virtuose dame. Roma, 1598.




216


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1869. . 412423.




217


Vinciolo F. Les Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtraicts// Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery and Needlepoint. Facsimile 1587/ With a preface by E. Ricci. New York, 1971. .V.




218


., . punto tagliato a foliami.




219


., . punto tagliato a foliami, punto a rilievo.




220


Earnshaw P.A Dictionary of Lace. New York, 1999. . 147148.




221


Jourdain M. Old Lace. A Handbook for Collectors. London, 1908. . 5.




222


., . Punto tagliato a foliami, punto a rilievo.




223


Pollen J.H. Seven centuries of lace. London; New York, 1908. . 13.




224


., . punto tagliato a foliami.




225


Kohlsaat A.M. Old lace manual. New York, 1910. . 30.




226


., . punto tagliato a foliami.




227


Ibid. . 14.




228


Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. London; New York, 1900. . 137.




229


,    1867      ,      ,    . .:  / . .. //     . .VI. .II.   . .: . .. , 1880. .68.




230


  . .: Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 207.




231


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1869. . 131132.




232


Jourdain M. Old Lace. A Handbook for Collectors. London, 1908. . 64.




233


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. London, 1865. . 51.




234


Duval L. Documents pour servir ? lhistoire de la fabrication du point dAlen?on. Alen?on, 1883. . 10.




235


Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 107.




236


Duval L. Documents pour servir ? lhistoire . 144.




237


Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 113.




238


Ibid.




239


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 191.




240


The Queen Lace Book: A Historical and Descriptive Account of the Hand-Made Antique Laces of All Countries. London, 1874. . 29.




241


  ,           .      .




242


Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. Le Puy-en-Velay, 1979. . 68.




243


  1705 1709. .: Ibid. . 72.




244


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 230.




245


Ibid. . 229; Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. . 73.




246


Earnshaw P.A Dictionary of Lace. . 132.




247


Lef?bure E. Broderie et dentelles. Paris, 1887. . 227.




248


Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. . 68.




249


     , , , , -, , , . .: Ibid.




250


     .




251


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 230.




252


Earnshaw P.A Dictionary of Lace. . 19; Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 125.




253


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 270.




254


Earnshaw P.A Dictionary of Lace. . 153.




255


     ,            ,      .




256


 ,    . ,  ,   ,    70  120   (23). .: Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1869. . 200.




257


Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. . 46.




258


  1639 1644     (. Anvers). .: Ibid. P.48.




259


    . .: Ibid. . 47.




260


   1678.




261


Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 203.




262


    ,   ,  ,    ?  .




263


Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 135.




264


Pollen J.H. Seven centuries of lace. . 16.




265


  .       .




266


Kellogg Ch. Bobbins of Belgium. London; New York, 1920. . 127.




267


      :    .        , 1870-    .




268


Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. . 85, 98.




269


//  . 1862. 11. .254.




270


 //  . 1910. 22. .209.




271


    .




272


La dentelle de Blonde.




273


 ..   . ., 1983. .55.




274


Earnshaw P.How to Recognize Machine Laces. Berkeley, 1995. . 5355.




275


Jackson N.F. A History of Handmade Lace. P.120.




276


Fouriscot M. La France en Dentelles. . 23; Lowes E.L. Chats on Old Lace and Needlework. London; New York, 1919. . 97.




277


, .: Ashley E.L. Spanish Blonde Lace// Antiques. 1922. Vol.2. August. P.5859.




278


Jackson N.F. A History of Handmade Lace. P.124.




279


Ibid. P.181.




280


 ..   . .86, 93.




281


5000years of textiles/ d. by J. Harris. London, 2010. P.219.




282


.:   A Glossary Relating to Hand-made Lace and Needlework.




283


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 270.




284


 .  ,   //  .   8 ./ . . . ., 1994. .3. .367.




285


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1869. . 329.




286


Jackson N.F. A History of Handmade Lace. P.170.




287


Ibid.




288


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 383; Yallop H.J. The History of the Honiton Lace Industry. Exeter: University of Exeter Press, 1992. . 124125.




289


Lowes E.L. Chats on Old Lace and Needlework. . 138.




290


Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 180.




291


Ibid.




292


     18001964.




293


    .




294


Toomer H. Antique Lace: Identifying Types and Techniques. Atglen, 2001. . 223.




295


Palliser F.B. A History of Lace. 1865. . 365.




296


      236 301. .: Official Catalogue of the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All of All Nations 1851. Cambridge, 2011. . 100, 101.




297


     .  1861   6714 , 1871-젖 6051 .  1891  3376 ,   ,  . .: Verdon N. Rural Women Workers in Nineteenth-century England: Gender, Work and Wages. Suffolk, 2002. . 153154.




298


Arcy D.E. Irish Crochet Lace: Motifs from County Monaghan. 2nd ed. Buckinghamshire, 2003.




299


Jackson F.N. A history of hand-made lace. . 140.




300


Earnshaw P.Youghal and other Irish laces. Guildford, 1988. . 16.


