 .  
 


   
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      1988, 堖 1998.  ,   ,      ,         .          , -,   ,    ,   ,   ,   ,  ,    ,   -,    ,     ,     ,   ,   ,   ,    ,   ,  ,   ,    ,     ,   ,    ,   , -  ,       ,   ,     ,   ,  :     (:   ),   ,   ,    ,    ,  ,    -, -,    ,  ,  ,  ,    -,  RexShutterstock,    (Fashion Group Foundation),   Image Works,     Bloomsbury,       Diktats.

    ,    ,        ,     .             .     , ,    .    Random House               ..    . . ߠ      ,    ,  ,   ,  ,  ,    -,  :    ,    ,     ,   -,   -,   ,          ,     .

      ,          .   ,  ,  ,   ,  ,   ,   ,  -,   ,  ,  , - ,  ,   ,  ,  ,  -  . ,         .         ..







 ໠  ,    . ߠ    ,      .        .        ,  . , .  , .  ?    ,  , , , . . , , .  .    .   , 1985,  -       (Fashion and Eroticism). ߠ         ,  .  ,      .          ,     .

     Oxford University Press 1988.    ,       -   .   , ,     .         .    ,        .    XIX,      .    ,        , ,        .

,            ,   .    .   :   렖    .     .         Los Angeles Times: ,     ,      ,  , ,  . <>      ,   ,    ,   .      , , ,   .

       :  XX (Women of Fashion: 20th-Century Designers) 蠫: ,   (Fetish: Fashion, Sex & Power),     .         XX (Se v?tir au XXe si?cle).       Yale University Press   50  :   -  (50 Years of Fashion: From New Look to Now).     , , ,   .  , ,     .  ,         ,  .

 1998  Berg         .   , 1997,          Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture.          (Fashion Institute of Technology).      ,   ,       .   1997     ,      Christian Dior,         Eclect/Dissect  Givenchy.              .     .

            .          .             ,      ,      .    ,  . -,    , -, ,  ,   ,     ,    1997   .        ,         ,      .       ,      .

         . ,   -  ,       .        ,      .




 1

,  ?



Fluctuat nec mergitur.[1 -  ,     (.).]

   

 ࠖ    堖   .        ,  ,       . ,      , ,  .     ,   ,     ,        . 栖  ,   .        .    ,       ,  ,    ,    . 栖   .   , ,    ,      ,     .

  , ,   . Ӡ  .      -, , ;     .         ,  ,  , -    ,        .  ,      󠖠   ,    -   ,        .

, -     .       ?        :  , ,         .                 [2 - Gilbert D. From Paris to Shanghai: The Changing Geographies of Fashions World Cities// Christopher Breward and David Gilbert/ ds Fashions World Cities. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2006. p. 34.].         .          .

 ,        ,    ,         .               .  XIVXV       .  XVI,   ,      ,     .  XVII    ,      . ʠ     ,  -       .

- ,    XIV, :   ࠖ       .   XIV      ,        .    ,     ,  ⠫  [3 - Dejean J. How Paris Became Paris: The Invention of the Modern City. London: Bloomsbury, 2014. . 145.].       ,       젖mode.     (1690) ,    ,  ,   ,     .    .    ,   ,     [4 - Dictionnaire universal (1692), . : Heller S.-G. Fashion in Medieval France. Cambridge: D.S.Brewer, 2007. . 20.].  -c       .               .

  XVII        .       :  , , , , ,  .       .  1685   ,    , ,      [5 -   , . : Dejean J. How Paris Became Paris. . 162.].   ,  Le Mercure galant,         ,     ;       ,   -     , ,    [6 - Roche D. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the ancien rgime/ Transl. by Jean Birrell. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1989. Pp. 474475.].

 XVIII    ,    .       .  ,   -,     ,    ,    .      ,   ,    ,    1770?[7 - - , . : Dejean J. How Paris Became Paris. P.144.].   ,    ,     ,    .  ,         [8 - Rublack U. Dressing Up: Cultural Identity in Renaissance Europe. New York; Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010. Pp. 281282.].

  ,    ,    .                XVI 1789     1815.     ,   ,   ,    ,      .       :    .      ,      . , ,     .     Journal des Dames et des Modes     .       ,        .      ,  1801,  The Ladies Magazine.     蠖   堖   .    ,       -,   .     ,          : La pudeur anglaise.[9 -   (.).]

 ,    ,      .         , ,              .    ,    [10 - Perrot Ph. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994. P.189. . . . :  . .  / . . .., .. , .. , .. , .. . .  . . .: , 1992. .395.].  XIX,  ,      .             ,     .  ,     ,    . ,       ,       .

   (la mode)      (la modernit).          (1863),       . ,            ,         .          堖  , ,       .             ,      ,   .      .             .           .  ,         (La Parisienne),    .

ࠖ    ,       : , , .        (1867),   ,            ,       [11 - Higonnet P. Paris, Capital of the World. Cambridge; London: Harvard University Press, 2002. P.117.].       ,  , 蠫  , [12 - Dumas A. et al. Paris et les parisiennes au XIXe si?cle. Paris: Morizot, 1856. P.iii.].   ,  [13 - Delord T. Physiologie de la parisienne. Paris: Aubert, 1841. P.23.]. ,      堖      ࠖ         ,  ,      -  .

Ӡ, ,    ,     (  蠫)     ( 蠫) . ,  ,    ,    .    ,          ! ,      ,    ,           !!             ![14 - Merritt M.A. Dress Reform Practically and Physiologically Considered. Buffalo: Jewett, Thomas, and Co., 1852. P.59.]

  -     ?[15 - Russell F.E. Freedom in Dress for Women// The Arena. 1893. 6. June. P.74.]      ,         [16 - Russell F.E. Womens Dress// The Arena. 1891. 3. February. P.359.].

, ,       ,   ,       .     Godeys Ladies Book, ,  ,      .              . , ,     ,   Petit Courrier des Dames 4  1857.   ,   .    ,      Maison Fauvet,    Godeys Ladies Book      , ,    (  , ,     ).

ʠ XIX  , ,    .    magasins de nouveauts ( ),  ,   ,     .        .    ,        ,         .   :           ,     [17 - Perrot. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century/ Transl. by Richard Bienvenu. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994. P.73.].     ,   grande couture.       ,   ,       , 蠖, ,   .

   haute couture,  ,          .       ,     ,        .       Ladies Home Journal ,     , ࠫ    [18 - Ladies Home Journal. 1893. April. P.29.]. ,     ,      .               ꠖ     ,         .      ,      , ,          .

  ⠫   ,   .   :    ,           ,    [] [19 - Uzanne L.O. The Modern Parisienne. London: William Heinemann, 1912. P.34.  . : La Femme ? Paris. Paris: Quantin, 1894.].   ,   (,  ,   --  )      ,       .

           ,   ,    --,        ;       ,    . ,  ,   -,   ,   ,    .          ,   ,      ;              .   ,   ,      ,  ,  -      ,  - -,  [20 - dAvenel G. Le Mchanisme de la vie moderne. Paris: Armand Colin, 19001905. Vol.4. Pp. 12, 4, 12.].

   ,      ,     .  1860   ,    ,   .         1891,        ,   :       ,          -   [21 - Goncourt Journal, . : Clark T.J. The Painting of Modern Life. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1999. Pp. 3435.].     ,         ,    .      ,       . ,        ,     .     .    , ,  ,,  .

         ,      . ,         .  8-      ,    ,     ,,    .  9-       ࠖ,    ,  ,      .            .      ,  ,堖 10?        .

 11   XX.  ,     ,    .      ;        .    ,            ,     .  19201930?,       -  ,    :  ,    .  12?         .  13?     ,        .

        ,      ,    .          ,         .       ⠖     .         ;    ,   .  14       1947        蠖 (堖),  -.

       XXI.              -    . ࠖ     ,    .      ,    . ,    .     ,     ,       .  𠖠     ,  ,   ,    [22 - Lieberson S.A Matter of Taste: How Names, Fashions, and Culture Change. New Haven; London: Yale University Press, 2000.].          .










 . La Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Fran?ais. 1782






 . Journal des Dames et des Modes






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 . 1787






 . Godeys Ladies Book.  1858






  .  . Petit Courrier des Dames. 4 1857






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,   ,      ,  ,       .       ,      .

- .  . 17821788

 ,        ,   ,  ,       . Ƞ 堖 ,          .  , ,    :     .         ?     ?  ,  ࠖ  ?      ?

           .   , XIV     T- ,     .        .  1393  ,    ,         [23 - Scott M. Late Gothic Europe, 14001500. The History of Dress Series. London: Mills & Boon, 1980. P.58.].     :      . ,  ,       ,        .        .  ,  ,      ,      ,    ,   .

        .  ,  ,        .        ,  ,         .   , ,    .   ,   VII,     .  ,       ,     ,   ,    ,   [24 - Challamel J.A. The History of Fashion in France. London: S.Low, Marston, Searle, and Rivington, 1882. P.51.].  , ,     ,   ,    .   ,        ,    ,  ,   .  , ,     .




  


    ,     .       . -  :         ,   :       ,         ,     ?         ,       ,             XIII[25 - Heller S.-G. Fashion in Medieval France. Cambridge, UK: D.S. Brewer, 2007. Pp.46, 59.].

     -,  .   ,       , , ,     .   ,      XIV;          1157.         ,  [26 - Stuard S.M. Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania, 2006. Pp. 14.].  ,     ,  -    ,  ,       .       ,      .     -      .

        ,    .       ;        .    ,  ,   1340.    ,     ,  ,    [27 - Boucher F. Histoire du costume en occident de lantiquit ? nos jours. Paris: Flammarion, 1965. Pp. 191195; Post P.La Naissance du costume masculin moderne au XIVe si?cle// Actes du Ier Congr?s International dhistoire du Costume. Venice: Centro Internazionale delle Arti e del Costume, 1955. Pp. 2841.].      .            ,  .       ,       ,   ,    [28 - Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy// CIBA Review. 51. 1946; BeaulieuM., Bayle J. Le Costume en Bourgogne de Philippe le hardi ? la mort de Charles le tmraire (13641477). Paris: Presses Universitaires de France, 1956. P.186; ErlangerPh. The Age of Courts and Kings. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1967. P.17. . : Piponnier F. Costume et vie sociale: la cour dAnjou XIVeXVe si?cle. Paris: Mouton et cie., 1970; Vaughan R. Valois Burgundy. London: Archon Books, 1975.].     ,        .

 XIVXV        ,      .         (   XI),    ,           ,          .  ,  ,   .        1406󠖠    ,     ,       .   ,      [29 - Beaulieu and Bayle. Le Costume en Bourgogne. Pp. 185186; Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy. Pp. 1843, 1847.].

      .     ,   .    , ,    ,  .      [C]       ,     [ -].      ,  㠖   [30 - Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy. P.1850; Beaulieu and Bayle. Le Costume en Bourgogne. Pp. 125129.]. Ƞ          ,    .   , ,   ,      ,  ,  .        ,    ,  , ,          ,   [31 - Hollander A. Seeing Through Clothes. New York: Viking, 1978. Pp. 367369.].




  ?


Ѡ     ,        . ,    C        , ,   蠖 .      (mode, fashion),    . , ,   ,         : , , .

 XI    -      imamekashi[32 - Morris I. The World of the Shining Prince. New York: Oxford University Press, 1964. Pp. 38, 206.]. , ,      :  .  XVII    ;     , .        .          .       .         .         , iki,   .  XVIII      ,    (    )    .  XIX,      ,       [33 - Francks P.Was Fashion a European Invention? The Kimono and Economic Development in Japan// Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2015. Vol.19.3. June. Pp. 331361. . : Ikegami E. Bonds of civility: Aesthetic Networks and the Political Origins of Japanese Culture. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2005. P.247.].

           .    :           ,    1570? .  , ,   () ,      ,     ,   -  ,         ,    蠖  .       瓻.

  ,       :      ,             ,    .     ,   ,     [34 - Brook T. The Confusions of Pleasure: Commerce and Culture in Ming China. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1998. P.220.].

, ,     ,       .  ,   ,  , :



Ѡ         <>,      .       ,              ,              ,     ,    ,  ?[35 - Ibid. P.221.]


       .

 ,  ,  ,   .      .   ;     .    ,     ,     ,   .   :  ,    ?   .




  :  


  XIVXV   ,      .       ,    . ʠ   ,   .  XVI, ,     ࠖ, , .

Ѡ     I (14941547)       .    ,       :     , ,   -, ,     .        ,  ,   .         VIII (14911547). , ,   ,      I (15001558),      V,    .

           .       V,    ,      .             :    (Haematoxylum campechianum),     ,   ,     ,   .

, ,     .      ,   .   젖 .   젖         .  ,    (1528)   ,  , ,    .  V    ,        [36 - Colomer J.L. Black and the Royal Image// Jos Luis Colomer and Amalia Descalzo, eds. Spanish Fashion at the Courts of Early Modern Europe. Madrid: Centro de Estudios Europa Hispnica, 2014. Vol.1. P.78.].

   II     .     ,   ,  ,      ,  ,         ;   II        ,    V[37 - Colomer. Black and the Royal Image. P.90.].        ,  -  -.

  (      ,     ) :

		    . -  .
		 ;   ,   .
		  , , , ,
		    .
		      .
		   ,   ,
		, , , , 蠗
		  ,    [38 - Batterberry M., Batterberry A. Fashion, The Mirror of History. New York: Greenwich House, 1977. P.119.].

       ,                  . Ӡ         黠 ,   [39 - Ribeiro A. A Story of Pride and Prejudice: Perceptions of Spanish Dress in Seventeenth-Century England// Colomer and Descalzo, Spanish Fashion. 2014. Vol.II. Pp. 317340.].

,     頖 . ,         ,     ,   .    ,   ( ) ,      ,       .    ,     ,   ,     .  ,        ,      .       蠫 ,      ࠖ, ,    -        ,   .

  򠖠,  򠖠  ,        XVII.  1660    XIV    - .          ,     ,     .       ,     :   ,      ,  .       ,  ,     ,   . Π   :        ,     [40 - Madame de Motteville, . : Wiley L. The Formal French. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1967. P.171.].

         ;  -      ,    .




 -


,   XIV : ࠖ .  -,  ,       .       ,       .          .         ,  XIV     - (,     ),         .      ,      젖 ,  ,      .

  蠖       , -  ( , , ).       XIV 16611683, ,  , ,      . ,       ,       ,          . ,  ,      .         ,     ,     .

  ,      ,  ,      ,     .      : , ,  .  1685, ,   ,   XIV     ()       ,      .      ;     ,     ,     .

       .        ,    ,    ,     (Comit Colbert).              .      ,      .       .       ,   :      [41 - Mossiker F. Madame de Svign: A Life and Letters. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1983. P.224.].

           (  ).    栖  ,  젖  ,  .  1670  XIV      ,        .  ,   ,  XIV ,        .     ,     . Ƞ           .




  


     XVIII (     XIV 1715).  ,   ,    XVII   ,     .      ,    ,    .

 1675         ,     .      maitresses couturi?res[42 - - (.).]     ,      .      -,       couturi?res (  ).      .        , marchandes de modes (    ),     . Marchandes de modes    couturi?res,          XVIIXVIII.

       ,     .      ,           .   -  XVII     ; XVIII    marchande de modes  ,    -,   .

    ,           ,  .   XVII  -    ,      .         ,  -.        --.      . ʠ    ;        .     ,  XVIII    :     ,       (   )[43 - Roche D. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancient Regime. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996. Pp. 86117, 144145.].    ,   , ,  17001789,    1670 1700[44 - Crowston C.H. Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 16751791. Durham; London: Duke University Press, 2001. P.12.].

       ,  , ,    .  1672        LeMercure galant,   .      :     ,  ,    ,  ,   ,       [45 - Mercure Galant (1672), . : Crowston. . 30.].            ,     (    ), , ,        [46 - DeJean J. The Essence of Style: How the French Invented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Cafs, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour. New York; London: Free Press, 2005. Pp. 4748.].

  -    ,    ,      . -, 1715            XIV.  ,    ,   ;   .    [47 - Lacroix P.The Eighteenth Century: Its Institutions, Customs, and Costumes. France, 17001789. London: Bickers & Son, n.d. P.458.].         ,    .          ,   .




  


,    ,  :      [48 - The Present State of the Court of France, and the City of Paris (1712), . : Ribeiro A. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe 17151789. London: B.T. Batsford Ltd., 1984. P.20.].  1773    :  ,    ,    .  , , , , , ,   . <> ,    ,     .      .  ,    ,             [49 - Perrot. Les Dessus et les dessous. Paris: Fayard, 1981. Pp. 3435.].  , ,  .        ,       ,  .

ߠ  ,   ,< >       --. <> ,  ,         .      堖   [50 - Le Tableau de Paris (Amsterdam, 17821788), and Le Nouveau Paris (Paris, 1798)/ Abridged and translated by Wilfred and Emilie Jackson. The Picture of Paris Before and After the Revolution. London: George Routledge & Sons, 1929. P.9; Le Tableau de Paris/ Only by Helen Simpson. The Waiting City, Paris 17821788. London: George G. Harrap, 1933. Pp. 240241, 52. . : Giafferri P.-L. de. The History of French Masculine Costume. New York: Foreign Publications, 1927. Section 63; Perrot Ph. Les Dessus et les dessous de la bourgeoisie: Une histoire du v?tement au XIXe si?cle. Paris: Librairie Arth?me Fayard, 1981. Pp. 3334. . . . :  .-.  / . .. . .; ., 1936. .1. .3, 387388.].    ,  XVIII     .       .      ,   :   ,   ,  ,     --.  ,        ,   ,        .

  XVIII          robe volante,   ;   ,  ,  . ʠ XVIII       robe ? la fran?aise ( );      ,     .

 ,     XVII,  .        .     ,      ,     ;      .      XVIII   robe ? langlaise ( ) robe ? la polonese ( );    ,     .

    ,    .   robe ? la fran?aise  . ,     ,  marchandes de modes.            .       ,       , ,  .

   ,  ࠖ    .  ,   ,  -   ,    .  ,    ,      .       .    -  ,         . ,      ,   ,  ,    .             ,          ,   .          ,         [51 - Ribeiro. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe. P.18.].

  ,      ,          .          . .-. ,    ,   poupes de la rue Saint-Honor,   .    .   XVIII    ,  Gallerie des modes Cabinet des modes.           ,    .

 - ,    , : ࠖ , 蠖 ,     . 蠖     ,  ,    ; 蠖 ,        [52 - Rousseau. La Nouvelle Hlo?se, . : Perrot. Les Dessus et les dessous. P.301. . . . :  .-. ,   / . ..  .. //  .-. . .:  3 . ., 1961. .196.]. ,  1761        .        .

-   .    ,       .  ,   ,        .  :              [53 - Mercier/ Transl. Simpson. The Waiting City. P.273.].        ,  ,     : , ,    ,   .   ,     , , ,    ;       .        ,  ,   ,   ,  ,      [54 - Ibid. P.135.].

,   ꠖ  , ,    .      .




 :  


  XVIII   ,   ,     ,        .      ,    ,      .      -,   ,  ,  ,   ,      .      ,    XIV;    ,  dgag[55 -  (.).].

       ,         . ,           .   젖  ,   .   ,      . ,    ⅻ     ,  ,      ,  ,       [56 - Mercier/ Transl. Jackson. The Picture of Paris. P.18; transl. Simpson. The Waiting City. P.135. . . . :  .-.  / . ... .; ., 1936. .1. .193.].

   ,         ,      ,   .         .  ,         ,       .  1780?       ;           .

            ,       .       ,      .     ,     ,        ,     ,     [57 - George M.D. English Political Caricature. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1959. P.147; Macaroni and Theatrical Magazine. 1772. October, . : George M.D. Hogarth to Cruikshank: Social Change in Graphic Satire. London: Penguin, 1967. P.59. . : Steele V. The Social and Political Significance of Macaroni Fashion// Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society. 1985. 19. Pp. 94109.].

 ,   Town and Country Magazine  1771, ,  ,  ,    :



  XIV     ,    :         ;  ,   ,     .     ,     [58 - Town and Country Magazine. 1771. November. P.598.].


 XVIII       .  ,      ,   .         [59 - Bickerstaff I. Lionel and Clarissa (a comic opera). C. 1768, . : Rhead W.H. Chats on Costume. London, 1906. P.104; The London Magazine: or, Gentlemans Monthly Intelligencer. 1772. April. P.193.].

		In English garb, we know plain common sense
		To modish understanding gives offense
		Whilst fan-tailed folly, with Parisian air
		Commands that homage sense alone should share[60 -   ,  ,          ,   ,    .][61 - Hitchcock R. The Macaroni. A Comedy. New York: A. Ward, 1773. Pp. 1, 5, 70. Prologue, Epilogue.].

  ,              .

  ,        ,   .      ( ),   (  ),   (   ),  ( ),  (  ,   )  (    ).     petit-ma?tre[62 -  (.).];       ,           .

  ,           .            .        . ࠫ    (1781),     ,   , ,    ,     , ,  ,    .

       17701780?,  ,   (  )      .     (1781)       ,     -.      ,       :



    :   .      ;   ;   頖  . Ӡ    ;   ,   .  ,     , , ,    ;      ,    (   ,    ,     , ,     ),      .   [63 - Bell Q. On Human Finery, 2nd ed. New York: Schocken Books. 1978. P.125.]


Habit ? la fran?aise (  ) habit ? langlaise (  )    17701780?.         ,      :      .     robe ? la fran?aise robe ? langlaise.      . ,        (la redingote);       ,   :  , , .   : , ,   .

 1780?   c     ,  . , ,     (1788)    :     . , , , , , ,    .      le vauxhall, le club, les jocqueis, les fracs, le vishk, le punch, le spleen la fureur du suicide[64 -  ( :   ), , , , , ,    (.).][65 - Ribeiro. P.146. . : Giafferri. Section 62.].  , ,                .  : , ,   .   -,   ,        ,  ,  ,    ,        . 𠖠 ,           ,  ?[66 - Mercier/ Transl. Simpson. The Waiting City. P.30.]




 


      ,  XVIII      ,     -,    XV,     ,     -.  -    .       ,     .         ,   .                ,     .       ,         .

          ,   .       ;      . , ,         ࠖ     .   :   XVIII    :      ,      ,  .         [67 - Ribeiro. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe. P.13.].

-       ,   .  , ,   .  XIV     ,   -    ,  ,    .         ,       .       .  - ,     -,  :     ;  - ,   [68 - Mossiker F. The Queens Necklace. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1961. P.162; Lenard R. Berlanstein, Daughters of Eve: A Cultural History of French Theater Women from the Old Regime to the Fin-de-Si?cle. Cambridge, Mass.; London: Harvard University Press, 2001. Pp. 5657; Maria-Theresa of Austria, . : LAnglade E. Rose Bertin, The Creator of Fashion at the Court of Marie Antoinette/ Transl. Angelo S.Rappoport. London: John Long, 1913. P.58.].

     .        marchande de modes,  ,           [69 - Ribeiro. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe. P.54.].        -,      .        Le Grand Mogol   -,          .      ,       ,  ,   .    ,   ,      , ,       .    .-. , ,       ,     .      ,    ,   ,  ,    [70 - LAnglade E. Rose Bertin, The Creator of Fashion at the Court of Marie Antoinette/ Transl. Angelo S.Rappoport. London: John Long, 1913. Pp. 136, 140, 150.].

-    120000 ,    ;      138000 .  ,   ,    ,  ,  1785    27597    ,  4350   .    :  堖5527 ,   (   )885  604.    ,     ,  4097 .       [71 - Archives Nationales 03,792,  : LAnglade. P.153.].            ,     .

       ,        ,   -,  gaulle.  - (. 1783)   -  ,        .                      (1759).  -   ,      .    ,   ,       ,     [72 - Bernier O. The Eighteenth-Century Woman. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art in association with Doubleday & Co., 1982. P.138.].    ,       ,     . . -, ,         succ?s de scandale:[73 -   (.).]



ߠ    ߠ                 ,  .      ,    ,      en chemis[74 -   (.).]


      .            ⓻ (La Runion des Arts)     ,       .           [75 - The Memoirs of Mme Elisabeth Louise Vige-Lebrun, 17551789/ Transl. Gerard Shelley. London: John Hamilton, 1926. P.53.].

      -;         ;         .

 -      ,    ;       .            ,  . ,  -   :    XVII robe volant  XVIII.  𠖠    XVIII;  -  .

,  -     ,   .  XVIII         , ,   ,    . Ƞ,  ,  ( )    - ,   ⠖         .

   ,  -           :            XVIII.     , ,  [76 - Laver J. Taste and Fashion, rev. ed. London: George G. Harrap & Co., 1945. P.198.].

 , ,  .    1792  ,  ,     .     (17951799),   (17991804)   (18041815)     .          ,   .   .










  . , . 1769.    Diktats Books






 . . 1779. ,  .      ,  






 .  , .   La Gallerie des Modes et des Costumes Fran?ais. . 1779






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 3

 



          -                  ,            .

  8  II  (29  1773)

    .     ?    ,  :    [77 - Roche D. Apparences Rvolutionaires ou Rvolution des Apparences?// Nicole Pellegrin, Les V?tements de la libert. Marsaiiles: Editions ALINEA, 1989. P.201.]. ,    ,        -,      . Ƞ     ,         . Ѡ      .    ,       (  ).          [78 - Wrigley R. The Politics of Appearances: Representations of Dress in Revolutionary France. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2002. P.2.].    ,      蠖  ,    [79 - Hunt L. Freedom of Dress in Revolutionary France// Sara E. Melzer and Kathryn Norberg, eds. From the Royal to the Republican Body. Incorporating the political in seventeenth- and eighteenth-century France. Berkeley; Los Angeles; London: University of California Press, 1998. P.249.].

       ,     ,  1789,   XVI   ,       ,   .    ( )       ; 蠖 ;    ()         ,       . ,     -,       .         ,     ,     .

          , ,        ,    .     ,    ,  ,            ,      .     ,    ,     ,  ,    .       ,   .          .   -   ,   XVI        ,   ,     .




 , 17891794


14 1789  ,   ,       ,  ,  ,    .          ,      .  ,   ,         .     ⠖sans-culottes,   :         (culottes),    (pantalon). Π,   ,    .

     ;   -         .       ? la Bastille   . ,     ,    ,  ,       Libert[80 -  (.).].      ( ),    --    .   ,   ? la Constitution ? la Fdration[81 - Challamel J.A. The History of Fashion in France. London: S.Low Marston, Searle and Rivington, 1882. Pp. 180182.].

       -- .    1789;    ,  .       ,        .  , ,    ,  .       ,  .    ,      .      :  , 젖 .          ;        ;     .      ,    .       .     .

        .  :      ,  ,    ,    ,    ,         ,    .          ,       ,     ,  ,       ,    .     ,    ;   :   .     ,  : ,  ,    ,    [82 - Fran?ois Auguste Ren Chateaubriand. Memoirs/ Transl. and ed. Robert Baldick. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1961. Pp. 108, 107.].

,   , ,        .    ,      ⠖      . ,   1791,     ,  -   .     (8  1792)   -  (),        .

     ,     ,     1792.     1793,  .   ,   1793,    ;        .      1793-   1794,       .

      ,    .      .            .   .-.        (1792)     ,   ,          .     ,    (   ;  ,    򠖠  ,     )    . ,        bonnet rouge,   ,      .

    [83 - Pellegrin N. Les V?tements de la Libert. Pp. 161163.].  , ,       ,  .,     ,      ,       ,    铻.   , ,  蠫  ,      , -,  ,  . ,        ,      [84 - Roche D. Popular Dress.  . : Roche. People of Paris/ Reproduced in Peter McNeil, ed. Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources. Vol.2: The Eighteenth Century. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2009. Pp. 7576.].

Bonnet rouge,    ,       .    ,       , bonnet rouge          .        , bonnet rouge   ,    .         .      1792,   XVI        .   ,       .            .    ,   ,     [85 - Harris J. The Red Cap of Liberty: A Study of Dress Worn by French Revolutionary Partisans, 17891794// Eighteenth-Century Studies. 1981. 14. Pp. 283312. . : Pellegrin N. Les V?tements de libert. Pp. 3132; Wrigley.].

      ,         .  -    1793,          (Socit des Rpublicaines rvolutionnaires)   .         ,   ,       .      8  II (29  1793),      :         -                 ,           [86 - Pellegrin N. Les V?tements de la Libert. P.111.].

    ,    ,        ,            .  ⠖    ,  蠖    .         :      ;     ;     [87 - Hunt L. The Unstable Boundaries of the French Revolution// Nichelle Perrot, ed. A History of Private Life. Vol.IV. From the Fires of Revolution to the Great War/ Transl., Arthur Goldhammer. Cambridge, MA; London: The Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 1990. P.18.].

   16-  9 (7  1800)        .

     ,     ,  , , ,   ,   :      ,        , ?      [88 - Yalom M. Blood Sisters: The French Revolution in Womens Memory. New York: Basic Books, 1993. P.21.].    ,      ,     . -         , 𠖠 .

      -  ;  ,    ,    ,  .          .      .      ,   ,    ⠫ .        .       .          .    :   (neglig ? lapatriote),   (redingote nationale) 蠫  (dshabill ? la democrate).      (  )[89 - Chrisman-Campbell K. Fashion Victims: Dress at the court of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. London; New Haven: Yale University Press, 2015. P.288. . : Costumes du temps de la Rvolution 17901793. Paris: A. Lvy, 1876; GaudriaultR. La Gravure de mode fminine en France. Paris: Les ditions dAmateur, 1983. Pp.4142, 44.].        .

  :  ,  ,  ,  ,    . - ,  P?re Duchesne,     ,    . ,    .  1793, ,       ---  ⠫  ,    ,  ,    ,       [90 - Memoirs of Madame de la Tour du Pin/ Transl. and ed. Felice Harcourt. London: Harvill Press, 1969. P.192.].            [91 - Chateaubriand. Memoirs. Pp. 171, 170.].

              .  1793  1794    -    . ,      ,     ,     ,     . ,      ,,       . ,  ,   ,       .         堖 .




   


      910  (2728 1794)    ,      - -. .-. ,   , ,           ,       .         ,   ,          .    .    .      :     .  ,  .  ,       .        ,             .   ,      [92 - Mercier L.S.Le Tableau de Paris (Amsterdam, 17821788) and Le Nouveau Paris (Paris, 1798)/ Abridged and translated by Wilfred and Emilie Jackson. The Picture of Paris Before and After the Revolution. London: George Routledge & Sons, 1929. Pp. 246, 149150.].

  ,   ,       .      ,   ,     ,         ,    ,     .     Bals des victims, ,    [93 - Schechter R. Gothic Thermidor: The Bals des victims, the Fantastic, and the Production of Historical Knowledge in Post-Terror France// Representations. 1998. 61. Winter. Pp.7894.]. -,     ,    ,    .    ,    ,       .    .

  ,         [94 - Amann E. Dandyism in the Age of Revolution. Chicago; London: University of Chicago Press, 2015. P.63.],     .  (    )      ࠖ   ,  ,   , .     , ,    ,        (jeunesse dore),   ,    , ,     ,   [95 - Lefebvre G. The French Revolution 17931799. New York: Columbia University Press, 1962. P.139.].    , , ,         .

 (sans-culottism),   , ,  ,      .    .           .     , bonnets rouges       jeunesse dore[96 -   (.).].     ,     [97 - Woronoff D. The Thermidorian Regime and the Directory, 17941799. Cambridge: ditions de la Maison des Sciences de lHomme and Cambridge University Press, 1984. Pp. 8, 20.].     ໠,          .

  (  jeunesse dore)      (, ) .         ,   -,    , ,      .     蠫 -     ,     .

     ,   .      .       ,  ,  ,       ,     .     1797:     ,     ?  .       ;           ,   ,     .

 1797      -. ,   ,  1798        ,  蠫 , .         .    ,     ;       ,   ,   .  -   ;    ,    蠫 .     :  (les achets),     , ,      , 蠫 (les enrichis),    [98 - Hunt L. Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution. Berkeley; Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1984. Pp. 5253.].

       ,           ,     .  ,   , ,  ,    (1797).  ,  ,   ,    signes de ralliement,   , ,    ,  :   [99 - Amann E. Dandyism in the Age of Revolution. Pp. 126127.].

 , ,     .    , 17951801        ,    .   ,  ,        ,     ,    .   , ,      ,  ,        ,    .          (mauvais):  ,  ,   ,   .



   , ,     -    , ,  ,     ,         :  ,  , ,       ,   ,      ,   ,    ,     -     36- ꠖ ,  ,      : veste de drap bleu, ungilet de Velour de Coton bleu ray en lozange, un pantalon de coutil bleu[100 -    ,      c   ,     (.).];  - ,    [101 - Cobb R. Death in Paris. New York: Oxford University Press, 1978. Pp. 73, 76.].


   ,      ,  .   ,     Rpublique Fran?aise    ,    ,  .     : ,       ?   ,    ,   . ,  , :  ,  ,        .




 


  .     ,        .   ,  ,       jeunesse dore           ,  -,     ? la hussarde ( )   [102 - Ibid. P.80.].    ,   ,   ;     ,         ,      .

  1804     .       ,     ,  .     ,       ;        .         ,             .

 1815,  100     ,    ;    .       .       ,       .     堖,  ,    .       .  1815      :   ,  ,   . Ѡ          .

  ;  ,  ,   ,     . ,        ,  [103 - Wrigley. P.11.].     ; -     .          ,   . Ӡ      ,      .

          .      ,   1830.   ,         ;   젖   .      ;      .

  ,  1848,    .  ,  ,  ;     .   1848 -   ,  ,   ()    1789.  ,   1848   ,    .        Le Charivari,     (Vsuvienne),      .  1848     ;    .     - -     ,     .

Ƞ       . Ƞ 堖   .










  . . 1900.      //   -,        






 . Journal des Dames et des Modes






 . Journal des Dames et des Modes






 . Observateur des Modes. . 1820






,         !    Le Charivari     . 1848






 4

 



   .

.    . 1830[104 - . . . :  ..    //  ..  ;   / . . ..  ..; . . .. . .: FreeFly, 2006. .435.]

  . ,       . ʠ   .  XVIII   ,  XIXࠖ,           .   1815   , le Tout-Paris,    ,    .    1830,     X,        ,      .       ( , ,      ,    )   ,      .         擻  - ,         ,  .    , ,     ,   :     savoir-vivre  ,    ,    je ne sais quoi,    [105 - Martin-Fugier A. La vie lgant ou la formation du Tout-Paris, 18151848. Paris: Librairie Arth?me Fayard, 1990. Pp. 2324.].

   ,    ⠫   ,    La Mode 1830[106 - Balzac H. de. Treatise in Elegant Living/ Transl. by Napoleon Jeffries. Cambridge, Mass.: Wakefield Press, 2010. P.65. . : La Trait de la vie lgant (first published in 1830; Paris: Bibliopolis, n.d.).].      ,     ,   ,      Π     ,   , 𠖠  ,    (18401842),     ,    femme comme il faut[107 -    (.).]    .  ,   ,     ,    ,     .           ,    . ,          ;    ,  , , ,          . ,           .   - ,    ,         ,      ,       [108 - Marzel Sh.-R. Lesprit du chiffon: le v?tement dans le roman fran?ais du XIX?me si?cle/ Dissertation presented to the Universit hbra?que, 2003. P.8.].

    1799,   ,    .    ,   ,    , ,    .   , ,     ,     :    ,  , - ; 젖      ;      31 ,     365  . ʠ 1830    904 , 󠖠 200  ,       .   ,       ,   .

ʠ,   ,   .       ,       .       .   ,      ,       . ,           ,   .  ,   ,    ,     :      ,               , ,  ,    []   ,    ,           [109 - Garrett H.T. Clothes and Character: The Function of Dress in Balzac/ Philadelphia: Ph.D. dissertation. University of Pennsylvania, 1941. Pp. 9, 13; Moers E. The Dandy: Brummell to Beerbohm. London: Secker & Warburg, 1960. P.129.].    ,   ,    ,       (la vie lgant),  ,   (  ),     ,   [110 - Balzac. Treatise on Elegant Living. Cambridge, Mass.: Wakefield Press, 2010. Pp.34, 9.].




  


,    ,  ,    ,    .      蠖            .        ,           .    , ,        .        ,      - .      .              ;      ( ) , ,     . , ,   ,   ,   :      -  [111 - Balzac H. de. Lost Illusions/ Transl. Herbert Hunt. Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1971. P.165. . . . :  . .  / . .. // . .:  24 . ., 1960. .9. .18.].

 ,    ,  ,   1820:  , ,  . Ӡ     蠫  ,   ,  ,  ,   ,   .          ,   , ,    ,       ,      ,      .  ,   ,      ,    .  ,  ,   ,   ,     ,    .   ,       .     : Ӡ  [112 - Ibid. Pp. 27, 71. . . . :  . .8. .309310, 351.].

       .     ,   ,  ,     ,      .    ,        . ,    ; ,   ,  ;                .          ,    ,      ,     ,  ,       .

      ;          .    :  ,    ,  .         ,  :    ⠫  ,     .     .      ,   ,       .   ,        . ,  ,     .

       ,        .      ,         ,   -  ,  ,  , :  ,  ,     . ,    ,   . ,  ,     :  ,    ,    .       ,   ;       ,   ,  [113 - Ibid. P.161, . : Pp. 77, 82. . . . :  . .9. .1415.].

   ,  ,    :       .       ,    ,      ,  .       :       ,   ,       ?      ,      ,     .           , ,    .  , ,     ,    ; ,    ,  :        .       ,    .      ,    ,     .   ,      , --        蠖       ,      .

  ,     , ,  ,   -.        300   .  ,    ,      ,     .        ,      .  ,   ,   , , .        , ,  ,  ,    ,     -   . ,  ,     ,    ,  ,   ,   .   ,     , ࠫ   ,      .       - ,      . 2000 ,      ,  360.    ,       40  (   ,  ),       100 [114 - Ibid. Pp. 164168, . : Pp. 168180. . . . :  . .1719, 21, 26, 2829.].

    ,  , .  ,       ,        ,       :  , ,       .      .   ,         :    ,       [115 - .   蠫 . . . . :  . .  / . . // . .:  24 . .2. .357.].

        ,        .  1820?        .       :      ,    ,   .         ,      1823:



     :  ,    ,  ,   ,       .    ,            ,     .        ,      ,   ,  .    ,  ,   , ꠖ       .           .    .       ,     .       ,   :      ,    ,          [116 - Balzac. Lost Illusions. Pp. 618619. . . . :  . .  / . .. // . .:  24 . .9. .437.].


     .        le fashionable   le dandy.      .     ma tigresse ( ),     , mon rat ( ),    .   mon tigre ( ).        : Le lion avait envoy son tigre chez son rat (     )[117 - Uzanne L.O. Fashion in Paris. London: William Heinemann, 1901. Pp. 8182.].




 


  XIX ,        :    ,        蠖  , ,      .   ,    ,    ,     :  ,  ,  ( ,    ).            젖, ,       .

 ,  ,    ,   .     ,       .  ,  ,         ,  :  [118 - Balzac H. de. Le Notaire; Duval P.LEmploy// Les Fran?ais peints par eux-m?mes. Paris: Fume et cie., 1853. Vol.1. Pp. 223227, 188192.].        :       ,     ,          ,             ;      .      :      ,    ,   ,    ,  ,     ,      .  , .       [119 - Balzac H. de. Monographie du rentier// Les Fran?ais peints par euxm?mes. Vol.2. Pp. 312, on p. 3. . . . :  . .  / . .. // . .:  24 . ., 1960. .23. .144.]

,       ,       ,       ,  .   , .    .  ,  ,      (  ),        , .   ,      ,         . ,              :        ,  ,     .    ,    ,  ;            ,    [120 - Garrett. Clothes and Character. P.50;   .: Balzac H. de. Cousin Bette. Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1965. P.55. . . . : ..  / . .. // . .:  24 . ., 1960. .13. .51.].

 ,   ,  ,         ,   .  , ,         蠫 ;  ᠖     .  , ,                ,   .   ,      ?    ,         .  ,  ,    ,    .     , ,   堖 .             ,  , ,    .   , ,       䠖         .        ,    ,  ()   ,        .

,  , ,    .      ,      ,  . Ӡ   ,       ,      .  ,     ,    ,    [121 - Garrett. Clothes and Character. Pp. 61, 56.].       .            :    ,   . <>      .             ,      ,       ,   .  ,      :      ,       ,   ,       ,  [122 - Balzac. Lost Illusions. P.651; Balzac H. de. A Harlot High and Low/ Transl. Rayner Heppenstall. Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1970. Pp. 112113. . . . :  ..  / . .. // . .:  24. ., 1960. .9. .469;  . .   / . ..//  . .10. .104.].

    .       : Ӡ     ,     .    .   -     ,       !,     , ,  .      .  ,   ,  ,   !  -     ,  , , , ꠖ,   ,      -   .       ,   ,  , 堖 : ,  ,    [123 - Balzac H. de. History and Physiology of the Boulevards of Paris// George Sand, P.S.Stahl, Honor de Balzac, Lon Gozlan, Frdric Souli, Charles Nodier, Eug?ne Briffault, S.Lavalette, P.Pascal, Le Diable ? Paris. Paris: J. Hetzel, 1846. Pp. 8992, 98100. . . . :  ..    / . .. // . .:  24 . .23. .228230, 235, 237.].

   550     .   , [ ]          ,   ,     .        ,     .    , ⠖ , 䠖     .      .         ,  ,   ,  ,     ,  .    ,    [124 - Texier E. Tableau de Paris. Paris: Bureau dIllustration, 1851. Pp. 3435.].




-  ,   


     ,    ,   ,       ,         .   ,       (  ),  .               ,       .  ,   , , [125 - Janin J. Grisette// Les Fran?ais peints par eux-m?mes. Vol.1. Pp. 311315; Huart L. Physiologie de la grisette. Paris: Aubert et cie., n.d. Pp. 12, 63.].

   XVIII        ;    ,        18201830?,     -  ⠫        ,    .    ,        ,         .    ,  ,   .                     .     ,      . ࠖ  ;    .

           ,  .       [126 - Vanier H. La Mode et ses mtiers. Paris: Armand Colin, 1960. P.19.].  (     )   .            ,  .     XIX      .

  ,         . 蠖 ,    蠫 .           .  ,             .  蠫       XIXࠖ       蠫 ,  :       ,   .        , ,  .

   ,     .     .    :    ,    ,   ,    ,    ,   .      ,        -  ,      .   ( )   ,                     ,    . ,          ,        :     ,      ,    [127 - Janin. Grisette. . .    ,          . : ,   . . ., 2014. .7187, 89105, 545558.  . , .  .  .].

        :   ,       ,       ꠖ .  , ,      ,   ,           .

     ,   .  ,   ,   ,   , ,  ࠖ   , ࠖ.          ,  ,   ,   .  ,        . ,    ,   <>  ,   [128 - dAnspach M. Modiste// Les Fran?ais peints par eux-m?mes. Vol.2. Pp. 128132, 131.].          :      . ,        .      ,      ,   .

蠖  ,   ,     XIX.  .      [129 - Uzanne. The Modern Parisienne. P.86.]. ,       ; ,    ꠫   .       : ,      ,         ,    ?   蠖 ,         ,     ,     . <> [Ƞ ] [],      ,    ,     ,       [130 - Anspach. Modiste. Pp. 132, 131.].  ,  ,    .

,   ,          ;  ,   ,   蠫,  蠫.    蠖 蠖   ? ,           , ,     .     :    /   Worth  Paquin?/  / Ƞ .  ,  XIX          :                ,    ,      ,         [131 - Avenel. La Mchanisme. Vol.4. P.2; Janin. Grisette; Uzanne. The Modern Parisienne. P.79.].




La Parisienne Le Dandy[132 -   (.).]


           .   ⠫  : ࠖ , , ,, ,     ,   :  ,  ,   . ,      :          .     頖 頖[133 - Delord T. Physiologie de la parisienne. Paris: Aubert et cie., 1841. Pp. 9, 1213.].      (1894) :             .         ,     [134 - Uzanne L.O. La Femme ? Paris. Paris: Quantin, 1894. Pp. 34.].

ࠖ ,  .       ; ,       --     . La femme comme il faut[135 -    (.).] ,       ,     ,    [136 - Balzac H. de. La Femme comme il faut// Les Fran?ais peints par euxm?mes. Vol.1. Pp. 321324.].   :    <>    . ,     蠖,  ࠖ   ,      ,  ,   .   ,    :   ,  .       je ne sais quoi![137 - : ߠ   (.); .] <>    ,   , , [138 - Delord. Physiologie. Pp. 68, 23; Eug?ne Lami; Alexandre Dumas; Thophile Gautier; Ars?ne Houssaye; Paul Edme de Musset; Louis Enault; G Du Fayl; Paul Gavarni; Adolphe Rouargue; Emile Rouargue Paris et les parisiens au XIXe si?cle. Paris: Morizot, 1856. P.414.].

      ,      ,     ,   .     ,    ,      ,  .          [139 - Gozlan L. Ce Que cest Quune Parisienne// Le Diable ? Paris. Paris et les Parisiens by George Sand, Thophile Lavalle, Paul Gavarni. Paris: Maresque et Compagnie and Gustave Havard, 1853. Pp. 14, 18, 22.].

  ?   ?     .   ,           ,   ,   [140 - Dumas et al. Paris et les parisiens au XIXe si?cle. Pp. 403404, iii, 413.]. Ƞ     ,    젖,  .    ,     ,       .  1823,      ,  La Pandore     :     ⠄,  ࠖ⠄.   ,    ,        . ,    ,     [141 - La Pandore// Journal des Spectacles. 1823. August 8. P.3; La Mode. 1830. October. P.10; 1830. November. Pp. 184188; 1829. October. Pp. 8182.].

Ƞ  , ,     ,     .      ,       (17781840),    :   ,   ,   , -  ?     (             ).        ,    ( ),   ⠫   ?     ,      ?    ,      ,      [142 - Moers. The Dandy. Pp. 108, 121.].

  ,           .         -, -  ,    ,  .       ⠫   : 젖,   . ,     : 젖   .  ,       ,   ,       ,       ;        ?..  ![143 - Balzac H. de. Treatise on Elegant Living. P.58.  . .    //  . .  ;   / . . ..  .. ; . . ... .: FreeFly, 2006. .432.]










 . . La Mode. . 1830






 . Petit Courrier des Dames. 1822






 . Journal des Dames et des Modes. 1823






 . . . 1840






 . .  .: ,   . 18401842






 .  . . 1840






 . .  .: ,   . 18401842






.  . . 1845






 5

  



  .   ?

.    (. .)[144 - . . . :  .   / C. . . .. [. .]:  . , 2013. .17.]

    (18211867)        :  , ,   .         ,           ,   ,     [145 - Fillin-Yeh S., ed. Dandies: Fashion and Finesse in Art and Culture. New York; London: New York University Press, 2001; Garelick R.K. Rising Star: Dandyism, Gender, and Performance in the Fin de Si?cle. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1998; Cicolini A., ed. 21st Century Dandy. London: British Council, 2003.].

        ,  ,  .    ,      .           (18081889)    (1845).     []    ,        ,   .    -,         1840?,         [146 - Favardin P., ed. Splendeurs et mis?res du dandysme. Paris: Mairie du 6e Arrondissiment de Paris, 1986. P.45.].        .

蠖  , .,       .      , , 堖 .        .      .          ,      ,  ,    ,     ,         .    ,  .    ,        .    .     .      .          :  ,    ,  ,  .     ,   [147 - DAurevilly B. Dandyism/ Transl. by Douglas Ainslie. New York: PAJ Publications, 1988. Pp. 3132, 64. . .   . : ..   . .:   , 2017. .14, 33.].   , ,   蠖 .      1844     ,   ,  ,  ,     . Ӡ    ,   ,  ,   ,   .           軠 .       ,     .   ,    ,   [148 - Moers E. The Dandy: Brummell to Beerbohm. London: Secker & Warburg, 1960. P.271; Starkie E. Baudelaire. Norfolk, CT: New Directions, 1958. P.76 (emphasis added).]. ,      .        .   Π哅  ⠫ 1846,    ,  젖     . ʠ          (1863)        ,  , ,  :   .   ?[149 - Kelly I. Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style. New York; London: Free Press, 2006. P.105; Moers. The Dandy. P.274; Baudelaire Ch. My Heart Laid Bare/ Ed. Peter Quennell, transl. Norman Cameron. New York: Vanguard Press, 1951. SectionXVI. P.180. . . . : .   / C. . .  . [..]:  . , 2013. .17; .  / . . .  . . .: , 1986. .128.]




𠖠


     :       ,   ,  ,       ,   ,   .        .       ,     ,  :



     ,    ,      ! ,    ,       ;   ;  ,   ,     ,   ,        ,    ,    . ߠ  ,       ![150 -  , . : Hemmings F.W.J. Baudelaire the Damned. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1982. P.33.]


 ,  ,   ;    .     1842,         -.        ,  ,       La Mode.         ,               .  1844  ,    ,    ,     [151 - Baudelaire Ch. The Painter of Modern Life// The Painter of Modern Life and Other Essays, transl. Jonathan Mayne. London: Phaidon Press, 1964. P.26; SeigelJ. Bohemian Paris. New York: Viking, 1986. P.103; Starkie. Baudelaire. Pp. 7083.].

 ,  18421844          .           ,    .         :  ,     .    ,         ,    .   ,     .           .        ,     蠖    .       ,  ,   .       ,    蠖 .

    , 𠖠,  堖      .           ,          .     ,           ,   .      ,  ,      .

      .         . Ƞ ,     ,      .  Le Dandy: Journal special de la coupe pour messieurs les Tailleurs (1838) :

 頖  ,    ,   蠄 ;  -   demi-toilette.        - .     : -       .   ⠖   .    (grande tenue)        <>        <>  ,   [] ,  ,       [152 - The Dandy. 1838. May25. P.4; The Dandy. 1838. January. P.4; The Dandy. 1838. February. P.3.].

      :    ,      .          ,   -     (sang de boeuf),   . ,     . , , ,   ,   ,     .  ,      ,  ,       . ,    ,  ,   ,    ,    [153 - Moers. The Dandy. P.272;  . : Moers. P.143.].        ,     .

           젖 ,         .  ,     ,    .      , .    , ,      ,     ,   . ,  ,   :     !    (    ),      ,      [154 - Champfleury [J.F.] Souvenirs et portraits de jeunesse. Paris: E. Dents, 1872. P.134; Starkie. Baudelaire. Pp. 7677; Mayne/ Transl. The Painter. P.27.]




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   .

   ,     (https://www.litres.ru/pages/biblio_book/?art=51844167)  .

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notes



1


 ,     (.).




2


Gilbert D. From Paris to Shanghai: The Changing Geographies of Fashions World Cities// Christopher Breward and David Gilbert/ ds Fashions World Cities. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2006. p. 34.




3


Dejean J. How Paris Became Paris: The Invention of the Modern City. London: Bloomsbury, 2014. . 145.




4


Dictionnaire universal (1692), . : Heller S.-G. Fashion in Medieval France. Cambridge: D.S.Brewer, 2007. . 20.




5


  , . : Dejean J. How Paris Became Paris. . 162.




6


Roche D. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the ancien rgime/ Transl. by Jean Birrell. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1989. Pp. 474475.




7


- , . : Dejean J. How Paris Became Paris. P.144.




8


Rublack U. Dressing Up: Cultural Identity in Renaissance Europe. New York; Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010. Pp. 281282.




9


  (.).




10


Perrot Ph. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994. P.189. . . . :  . .  / . . .., .. , .. , .. , .. . .  . . .: , 1992. .395.




11


Higonnet P. Paris, Capital of the World. Cambridge; London: Harvard University Press, 2002. P.117.




12


Dumas A. et al. Paris et les parisiennes au XIXe si?cle. Paris: Morizot, 1856. P.iii.




13


Delord T. Physiologie de la parisienne. Paris: Aubert, 1841. P.23.




14


Merritt M.A. Dress Reform Practically and Physiologically Considered. Buffalo: Jewett, Thomas, and Co., 1852. P.59.




15


Russell F.E. Freedom in Dress for Women// The Arena. 1893. 6. June. P.74.




16


Russell F.E. Womens Dress// The Arena. 1891. 3. February. P.359.




17


Perrot. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century/ Transl. by Richard Bienvenu. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994. P.73.




18


Ladies Home Journal. 1893. April. P.29.




19


Uzanne L.O. The Modern Parisienne. London: William Heinemann, 1912. P.34.  . : La Femme ? Paris. Paris: Quantin, 1894.




20


dAvenel G. Le Mchanisme de la vie moderne. Paris: Armand Colin, 19001905. Vol.4. Pp. 12, 4, 12.




21


Goncourt Journal, . : Clark T.J. The Painting of Modern Life. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1999. Pp. 3435.




22


Lieberson S.A Matter of Taste: How Names, Fashions, and Culture Change. New Haven; London: Yale University Press, 2000.




23


Scott M. Late Gothic Europe, 14001500. The History of Dress Series. London: Mills & Boon, 1980. P.58.




24


Challamel J.A. The History of Fashion in France. London: S.Low, Marston, Searle, and Rivington, 1882. P.51.




25


Heller S.-G. Fashion in Medieval France. Cambridge, UK: D.S. Brewer, 2007. Pp.46, 59.




26


Stuard S.M. Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania, 2006. Pp. 14.




27


Boucher F. Histoire du costume en occident de lantiquit ? nos jours. Paris: Flammarion, 1965. Pp. 191195; Post P.La Naissance du costume masculin moderne au XIVe si?cle// Actes du Ier Congr?s International dhistoire du Costume. Venice: Centro Internazionale delle Arti e del Costume, 1955. Pp. 2841.




28


Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy// CIBA Review. 51. 1946; BeaulieuM., Bayle J. Le Costume en Bourgogne de Philippe le hardi ? la mort de Charles le tmraire (13641477). Paris: Presses Universitaires de France, 1956. P.186; ErlangerPh. The Age of Courts and Kings. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1967. P.17. . : Piponnier F. Costume et vie sociale: la cour dAnjou XIVeXVe si?cle. Paris: Mouton et cie., 1970; Vaughan R. Valois Burgundy. London: Archon Books, 1975.




29


Beaulieu and Bayle. Le Costume en Bourgogne. Pp. 185186; Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy. Pp. 1843, 1847.




30


Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy. P.1850; Beaulieu and Bayle. Le Costume en Bourgogne. Pp. 125129.




31


Hollander A. Seeing Through Clothes. New York: Viking, 1978. Pp. 367369.




32


Morris I. The World of the Shining Prince. New York: Oxford University Press, 1964. Pp. 38, 206.




33


Francks P.Was Fashion a European Invention? The Kimono and Economic Development in Japan// Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2015. Vol.19.3. June. Pp. 331361. . : Ikegami E. Bonds of civility: Aesthetic Networks and the Political Origins of Japanese Culture. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2005. P.247.




34


Brook T. The Confusions of Pleasure: Commerce and Culture in Ming China. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1998. P.220.




35


Ibid. P.221.




36


Colomer J.L. Black and the Royal Image// Jos Luis Colomer and Amalia Descalzo, eds. Spanish Fashion at the Courts of Early Modern Europe. Madrid: Centro de Estudios Europa Hispnica, 2014. Vol.1. P.78.




37


Colomer. Black and the Royal Image. P.90.




38


Batterberry M., Batterberry A. Fashion, The Mirror of History. New York: Greenwich House, 1977. P.119.




39


Ribeiro A. A Story of Pride and Prejudice: Perceptions of Spanish Dress in Seventeenth-Century England// Colomer and Descalzo, Spanish Fashion. 2014. Vol.II. Pp. 317340.




40


Madame de Motteville, . : Wiley L. The Formal French. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1967. P.171.




41


Mossiker F. Madame de Svign: A Life and Letters. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1983. P.224.




42


- (.).




43


Roche D. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancient Regime. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996. Pp. 86117, 144145.




44


Crowston C.H. Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 16751791. Durham; London: Duke University Press, 2001. P.12.




45


Mercure Galant (1672), . : Crowston. . 30.




46


DeJean J. The Essence of Style: How the French Invented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Cafs, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour. New York; London: Free Press, 2005. Pp. 4748.




47


Lacroix P.The Eighteenth Century: Its Institutions, Customs, and Costumes. France, 17001789. London: Bickers & Son, n.d. P.458.




48


The Present State of the Court of France, and the City of Paris (1712), . : Ribeiro A. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe 17151789. London: B.T. Batsford Ltd., 1984. P.20.




49


Perrot. Les Dessus et les dessous. Paris: Fayard, 1981. Pp. 3435.




50


Le Tableau de Paris (Amsterdam, 17821788), and Le Nouveau Paris (Paris, 1798)/ Abridged and translated by Wilfred and Emilie Jackson. The Picture of Paris Before and After the Revolution. London: George Routledge & Sons, 1929. P.9; Le Tableau de Paris/ Only by Helen Simpson. The Waiting City, Paris 17821788. London: George G. Harrap, 1933. Pp. 240241, 52. . : Giafferri P.-L. de. The History of French Masculine Costume. New York: Foreign Publications, 1927. Section 63; Perrot Ph. Les Dessus et les dessous de la bourgeoisie: Une histoire du v?tement au XIXe si?cle. Paris: Librairie Arth?me Fayard, 1981. Pp. 3334. . . . :  .-.  / . .. . .; ., 1936. .1. .3, 387388.




51


Ribeiro. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe. P.18.




52


Rousseau. La Nouvelle Hlo?se, . : Perrot. Les Dessus et les dessous. P.301. . . . :  .-. ,   / . ..  .. //  .-. . .:  3 . ., 1961. .196.




53


Mercier/ Transl. Simpson. The Waiting City. P.273.




54


Ibid. P.135.




55


 (.).




56


Mercier/ Transl. Jackson. The Picture of Paris. P.18; transl. Simpson. The Waiting City. P.135. . . . :  .-.  / . ... .; ., 1936. .1. .193.




57


George M.D. English Political Caricature. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1959. P.147; Macaroni and Theatrical Magazine. 1772. October, . : George M.D. Hogarth to Cruikshank: Social Change in Graphic Satire. London: Penguin, 1967. P.59. . : Steele V. The Social and Political Significance of Macaroni Fashion// Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society. 1985. 19. Pp. 94109.




58


Town and Country Magazine. 1771. November. P.598.




59


Bickerstaff I. Lionel and Clarissa (a comic opera). C. 1768, . : Rhead W.H. Chats on Costume. London, 1906. P.104; The London Magazine: or, Gentlemans Monthly Intelligencer. 1772. April. P.193.




60


		  ,  ,  
		   
		     ,   ,
		    .




61


Hitchcock R. The Macaroni. A Comedy. New York: A. Ward, 1773. Pp. 1, 5, 70. Prologue, Epilogue.




62


 (.).




63


Bell Q. On Human Finery, 2nd ed. New York: Schocken Books. 1978. P.125.




64


 ( :   ), , , , , ,    (.).




65


Ribeiro. P.146. . : Giafferri. Section 62.




66


Mercier/ Transl. Simpson. The Waiting City. P.30.




67


Ribeiro. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe. P.13.




68


Mossiker F. The Queens Necklace. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1961. P.162; Lenard R. Berlanstein, Daughters of Eve: A Cultural History of French Theater Women from the Old Regime to the Fin-de-Si?cle. Cambridge, Mass.; London: Harvard University Press, 2001. Pp. 5657; Maria-Theresa of Austria, . : LAnglade E. Rose Bertin, The Creator of Fashion at the Court of Marie Antoinette/ Transl. Angelo S.Rappoport. London: John Long, 1913. P.58.




69


Ribeiro. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe. P.54.




70


LAnglade E. Rose Bertin, The Creator of Fashion at the Court of Marie Antoinette/ Transl. Angelo S.Rappoport. London: John Long, 1913. Pp. 136, 140, 150.




71


Archives Nationales 03,792,  : LAnglade. P.153.




72


Bernier O. The Eighteenth-Century Woman. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art in association with Doubleday & Co., 1982. P.138.




73


  (.).




74


  (.).




75


The Memoirs of Mme Elisabeth Louise Vige-Lebrun, 17551789/ Transl. Gerard Shelley. London: John Hamilton, 1926. P.53.




76


Laver J. Taste and Fashion, rev. ed. London: George G. Harrap & Co., 1945. P.198.




77


Roche D. Apparences Rvolutionaires ou Rvolution des Apparences?// Nicole Pellegrin, Les V?tements de la libert. Marsaiiles: Editions ALINEA, 1989. P.201.




78


Wrigley R. The Politics of Appearances: Representations of Dress in Revolutionary France. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2002. P.2.




79


Hunt L. Freedom of Dress in Revolutionary France// Sara E. Melzer and Kathryn Norberg, eds. From the Royal to the Republican Body. Incorporating the political in seventeenth- and eighteenth-century France. Berkeley; Los Angeles; London: University of California Press, 1998. P.249.




80


 (.).




81


Challamel J.A. The History of Fashion in France. London: S.Low Marston, Searle and Rivington, 1882. Pp. 180182.




82


Fran?ois Auguste Ren Chateaubriand. Memoirs/ Transl. and ed. Robert Baldick. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1961. Pp. 108, 107.




83


Pellegrin N. Les V?tements de la Libert. Pp. 161163.




84


Roche D. Popular Dress.  . : Roche. People of Paris/ Reproduced in Peter McNeil, ed. Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources. Vol.2: The Eighteenth Century. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2009. Pp. 7576.




85


Harris J. The Red Cap of Liberty: A Study of Dress Worn by French Revolutionary Partisans, 17891794// Eighteenth-Century Studies. 1981. 14. Pp. 283312. . : Pellegrin N. Les V?tements de libert. Pp. 3132; Wrigley.




86


Pellegrin N. Les V?tements de la Libert. P.111.




87


Hunt L. The Unstable Boundaries of the French Revolution// Nichelle Perrot, ed. A History of Private Life. Vol.IV. From the Fires of Revolution to the Great War/ Transl., Arthur Goldhammer. Cambridge, MA; London: The Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 1990. P.18.




88


Yalom M. Blood Sisters: The French Revolution in Womens Memory. New York: Basic Books, 1993. P.21.




89


Chrisman-Campbell K. Fashion Victims: Dress at the court of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. London; New Haven: Yale University Press, 2015. P.288. . : Costumes du temps de la Rvolution 17901793. Paris: A. Lvy, 1876; GaudriaultR. La Gravure de mode fminine en France. Paris: Les ditions dAmateur, 1983. Pp.4142, 44.




90


Memoirs of Madame de la Tour du Pin/ Transl. and ed. Felice Harcourt. London: Harvill Press, 1969. P.192.




91


Chateaubriand. Memoirs. Pp. 171, 170.




92


Mercier L.S.Le Tableau de Paris (Amsterdam, 17821788) and Le Nouveau Paris (Paris, 1798)/ Abridged and translated by Wilfred and Emilie Jackson. The Picture of Paris Before and After the Revolution. London: George Routledge & Sons, 1929. Pp. 246, 149150.




93


Schechter R. Gothic Thermidor: The Bals des victims, the Fantastic, and the Production of Historical Knowledge in Post-Terror France// Representations. 1998. 61. Winter. Pp.7894.




94


Amann E. Dandyism in the Age of Revolution. Chicago; London: University of Chicago Press, 2015. P.63.




95


Lefebvre G. The French Revolution 17931799. New York: Columbia University Press, 1962. P.139.




96


  (.).




97


Woronoff D. The Thermidorian Regime and the Directory, 17941799. Cambridge: ditions de la Maison des Sciences de lHomme and Cambridge University Press, 1984. Pp. 8, 20.




98


Hunt L. Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution. Berkeley; Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1984. Pp. 5253.




99


Amann E. Dandyism in the Age of Revolution. Pp. 126127.




100


   ,      c   ,     (.).




101


Cobb R. Death in Paris. New York: Oxford University Press, 1978. Pp. 73, 76.




102


Ibid. P.80.




103


Wrigley. P.11.




104


. . . :  ..    //  ..  ;   / . . ..  ..; . . .. . .: FreeFly, 2006. .435.




105


Martin-Fugier A. La vie lgant ou la formation du Tout-Paris, 18151848. Paris: Librairie Arth?me Fayard, 1990. Pp. 2324.




106


Balzac H. de. Treatise in Elegant Living/ Transl. by Napoleon Jeffries. Cambridge, Mass.: Wakefield Press, 2010. P.65. . : La Trait de la vie lgant (first published in 1830; Paris: Bibliopolis, n.d.).




107


   (.).




108


Marzel Sh.-R. Lesprit du chiffon: le v?tement dans le roman fran?ais du XIX?me si?cle/ Dissertation presented to the Universit hbra?que, 2003. P.8.




109


Garrett H.T. Clothes and Character: The Function of Dress in Balzac/ Philadelphia: Ph.D. dissertation. University of Pennsylvania, 1941. Pp. 9, 13; Moers E. The Dandy: Brummell to Beerbohm. London: Secker & Warburg, 1960. P.129.




110


Balzac. Treatise on Elegant Living. Cambridge, Mass.: Wakefield Press, 2010. Pp.34, 9.




111


Balzac H. de. Lost Illusions/ Transl. Herbert Hunt. Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1971. P.165. . . . :  . .  / . .. // . .:  24 . ., 1960. .9. .18.




112


Ibid. Pp. 27, 71. . . . :  . .8. .309310, 351.




113


Ibid. P.161, . : Pp. 77, 82. . . . :  . .9. .1415.




114


Ibid. Pp. 164168, . : Pp. 168180. . . . :  . .1719, 21, 26, 2829.




115


.   蠫 . . . . :  . .  / . . // . .:  24 . .2. .357.




116


Balzac. Lost Illusions. Pp. 618619. . . . :  . .  / . .. // . .:  24 . .9. .437.




117


Uzanne L.O. Fashion in Paris. London: William Heinemann, 1901. Pp. 8182.




118


Balzac H. de. Le Notaire; Duval P.LEmploy// Les Fran?ais peints par eux-m?mes. Paris: Fume et cie., 1853. Vol.1. Pp. 223227, 188192.




119


Balzac H. de. Monographie du rentier// Les Fran?ais peints par euxm?mes. Vol.2. Pp. 312, on p. 3. . . . :  . .  / . .. // . .:  24 . ., 1960. .23. .144.




120


Garrett. Clothes and Character. P.50;   .: Balzac H. de. Cousin Bette. Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1965. P.55. . . . : ..  / . .. // . .:  24 . ., 1960. .13. .51.




121


Garrett. Clothes and Character. Pp. 61, 56.




122


Balzac. Lost Illusions. P.651; Balzac H. de. A Harlot High and Low/ Transl. Rayner Heppenstall. Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1970. Pp. 112113. . . . :  ..  / . .. // . .:  24. ., 1960. .9. .469;  . .   / . ..//  . .10. .104.




123


Balzac H. de. History and Physiology of the Boulevards of Paris// George Sand, P.S.Stahl, Honor de Balzac, Lon Gozlan, Frdric Souli, Charles Nodier, Eug?ne Briffault, S.Lavalette, P.Pascal, Le Diable ? Paris. Paris: J. Hetzel, 1846. Pp. 8992, 98100. . . . :  ..    / . .. // . .:  24 . .23. .228230, 235, 237.




124


Texier E. Tableau de Paris. Paris: Bureau dIllustration, 1851. Pp. 3435.




125


Janin J. Grisette// Les Fran?ais peints par eux-m?mes. Vol.1. Pp. 311315; Huart L. Physiologie de la grisette. Paris: Aubert et cie., n.d. Pp. 12, 63.




126


Vanier H. La Mode et ses mtiers. Paris: Armand Colin, 1960. P.19.




127


Janin. Grisette. . .    ,          . : ,   . . ., 2014. .7187, 89105, 545558.  . , .  .  .




128


dAnspach M. Modiste// Les Fran?ais peints par eux-m?mes. Vol.2. Pp. 128132, 131.




129


Uzanne. The Modern Parisienne. P.86.




130


Anspach. Modiste. Pp. 132, 131.




131


Avenel. La Mchanisme. Vol.4. P.2; Janin. Grisette; Uzanne. The Modern Parisienne. P.79.




132


  (.).




133


Delord T. Physiologie de la parisienne. Paris: Aubert et cie., 1841. Pp. 9, 1213.




134


Uzanne L.O. La Femme ? Paris. Paris: Quantin, 1894. Pp. 34.




135


   (.).




136


Balzac H. de. La Femme comme il faut// Les Fran?ais peints par euxm?mes. Vol.1. Pp. 321324.




137


: ߠ   (.); .




138


Delord. Physiologie. Pp. 68, 23; Eug?ne Lami; Alexandre Dumas; Thophile Gautier; Ars?ne Houssaye; Paul Edme de Musset; Louis Enault; G Du Fayl; Paul Gavarni; Adolphe Rouargue; Emile Rouargue Paris et les parisiens au XIXe si?cle. Paris: Morizot, 1856. P.414.




139


Gozlan L. Ce Que cest Quune Parisienne// Le Diable ? Paris. Paris et les Parisiens by George Sand, Thophile Lavalle, Paul Gavarni. Paris: Maresque et Compagnie and Gustave Havard, 1853. Pp. 14, 18, 22.




140


Dumas et al. Paris et les parisiens au XIXe si?cle. Pp. 403404, iii, 413.




141


La Pandore// Journal des Spectacles. 1823. August 8. P.3; La Mode. 1830. October. P.10; 1830. November. Pp. 184188; 1829. October. Pp. 8182.




142


Moers. The Dandy. Pp. 108, 121.




143


Balzac H. de. Treatise on Elegant Living. P.58.  . .    //  . .  ;   / . . ..  .. ; . . ... .: FreeFly, 2006. .432.




144


. . . :  .   / C. . . .. [. .]:  . , 2013. .17.




145


Fillin-Yeh S., ed. Dandies: Fashion and Finesse in Art and Culture. New York; London: New York University Press, 2001; Garelick R.K. Rising Star: Dandyism, Gender, and Performance in the Fin de Si?cle. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1998; Cicolini A., ed. 21st Century Dandy. London: British Council, 2003.




146


Favardin P., ed. Splendeurs et mis?res du dandysme. Paris: Mairie du 6e Arrondissiment de Paris, 1986. P.45.




147


DAurevilly B. Dandyism/ Transl. by Douglas Ainslie. New York: PAJ Publications, 1988. Pp. 3132, 64. . .   . : ..   . .:   , 2017. .14, 33.




148


Moers E. The Dandy: Brummell to Beerbohm. London: Secker & Warburg, 1960. P.271; Starkie E. Baudelaire. Norfolk, CT: New Directions, 1958. P.76 (emphasis added).




149


Kelly I. Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style. New York; London: Free Press, 2006. P.105; Moers. The Dandy. P.274; Baudelaire Ch. My Heart Laid Bare/ Ed. Peter Quennell, transl. Norman Cameron. New York: Vanguard Press, 1951. SectionXVI. P.180. . . . : .   / C. . .  . [..]:  . , 2013. .17; .  / . . .  . . .: , 1986. .128.




150


 , . : Hemmings F.W.J. Baudelaire the Damned. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1982. P.33.




151


Baudelaire Ch. The Painter of Modern Life// The Painter of Modern Life and Other Essays, transl. Jonathan Mayne. London: Phaidon Press, 1964. P.26; SeigelJ. Bohemian Paris. New York: Viking, 1986. P.103; Starkie. Baudelaire. Pp. 7083.




152


The Dandy. 1838. May25. P.4; The Dandy. 1838. January. P.4; The Dandy. 1838. February. P.3.




153


Moers. The Dandy. P.272;  . : Moers. P.143.




154


Champfleury [J.F.] Souvenirs et portraits de jeunesse. Paris: E. Dents, 1872. P.134; Starkie. Baudelaire. Pp. 7677; Mayne/ Transl. The Painter. P.27.


