 .      
  


   
   - ,      ,       .  ,  ,         ,   ,    , ,      ,    .          :  ,  ,  ,  ,  ,  ,  ,      ⠖    (,  , ),      (, ,  ).         ,         .







     








              .         Bloomsbury Publishing     .              ,         ,   89  2016      .            ,    .               ,     򠖠    .         ,            .          .     ,   .




 


 ꠖ ,           (  ,  ).        ,   ; 젖    Sandy Black Knitwear.         ,     -      .  2005       (Interrogating Fashion),       ,         (Considerate Design for Personalised Fashion Products).    ,    ,     , , -      FIRE (Fashion, Innovation, Research, Evolution, , , ). 蠖     ,   ꠖ  (Eco Chic the Fashion Paradox, 2008),  :  (The Sustainable Fashion Handbook, 2012),      (The Handbook of Fashion Studies, 2013),  ,  : , ,  (Knitting: Fashion, Industry, Craft)    . ࠖ     Fashion Practice: Design, Creative Process and the Fashion Industry ( : ,    ),   2009.

         ..   (, ).     ,   .           ,  ,  ,  .    ,  The Fashion History Reader (   ) Mens Fashion Reader (   ), Fashion Theory Journal (  ), Fashion, Style & Popular Culture (,   ).   : , ,   (2006, 2012),       (2003, 2010).     Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture ( : , , ), Critical Studies in Mens Fashion (   ), International Journal of Fashion Studies (    )     .

 蠖 ,        ().    ;          ,      .   ,  :   (Fashion and Orientalism, 2013),  :   ,   (Fashions Double: Representations of Fashion in Painting, Photography and Film, 2015)    蠫 : , ,  (Artificial Bodies: Models, Mannequins and Marionettes, 2017).  (  )  Journal of Asia Pacific Pop Culture (- - , Penn State University Press) (    ) ab-Original: Journal of Indigenous Studies and First Nations and First Peoples Cultures ( :         , Penn State University Press).      (  )    (Fashion and Masculinities in Popular Culture, 2017).

          ().    ⠖ ,  .       ,  Fashion Theory ( ), Journal of Asia Pacific Pop Culture ( - - ), Semiotica () Jomec Journal (, , ).    򠖠 :      (Paesaggi di moda: corpo rivestito e flussi culturali, 2016),  : , ,  (Il giubbotto e il foulard: studi culturali, corpo, comunicazione, 2016),    :    ꠄ  (Journal of Asia Pacific Pop Culture, 2016),   : , ,  (Il corpo e lessere umani oggi: protesi, macchine, moda, 2015)    (Comunicazioni Sociali),   (Fashion Journalism, 2015), ,    (Luxury, Lifestyles and Excess, 2014).

 񠖠           ( , ,  ).         (Fashion and Art, 2012)     : - (Queer Style, 2013),  :   ,   (2015),   :     (Critical Fashion Practice from Westwood to Van Beirendonck, 2017) 蠫    (2017).     㠖   (Shanghai Street Style, 2013),    (Sydney Street Style, 2014),    (Fashion in Popular Culture, 2010),     (The Mens Fashion Reader, 2009) 蠫  :   ,   (Fashion in Fiction: Text and Clothing in Literature, Film and Television, 2009).   The Australasian Journal of Popular Culture (   ),  (  ) Journal of Asia Pacific Pop Culture (- - ).      ,  Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress and the Body.

 ꠖ       (-, ).    , PhD   ;         ,       .  ,  , , ,  .     :  ,  :  - (Old Clothes, New Looks: Second Hand Fashion)  ,  : ,   (The Fabric of Cultures: Fashion, Identity and Globalization, Routledge, 2009)  ,  :  (Design Studies: A Reader, 2009)  ,  :  - (Fashion and Everyday Life: London; New York, 2017)   蠫  :     (Fashion Curating: Critical Practice in the Museum and Beyond, 2017)  .  2017          (fashion after Fashion)    -.

 ꠖ      ().    ,   ,    :   (The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion, 1994),    ( :   ) (Uniforms Exposed: From Conformity to Transgression, 2005) 蠫:   (Fashion: The Key Concepts, 2009);     (  .  )    :     (Modern Fashion Traditions: Negotiating Tradition and Modernity in Fashion, 2016).    , ,  ,   - ,         .

 𠖠-     ,     ().            (),    - ()   Newcomen Fellowship.        ,   ,   .        (Enterprise of Culture)      (HERA II);      .               (Nordic Branding),    .  ( .. )   :    (European Fashion: The Creation of a Global Industry, 2018).

 𠖠        ( ),   ,  ,       XX XXI:  :      (Shopping Around: Consumer Culture and the Pursuit of Pleasure, 1995),  :      (Neo-Feminist Cinema: Girly Films, Chick Flicks and Consumer Culture, 2011),   :      (The New Womans Film: Femme-Centric Movies for Smart Chicks, 2017).    頖    (Fashion Theory, 2017),       , 蠫 :    (Raymond Bellour: Cinema and the Moving Image, 2018)   .

             ( ).    : ,   (Fashioning the City: Paris, Fashion and the Media, 2009).        ,  Fashion Theory, Journalism Practice ( ,  ), Sociology (), Socits () Journal of Consumer Culture (  ).       :   (Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, 2016),      (The Handbook of Fashion Studies, 2013) 蠫 :   (Fashion Media: Past and Present, 2013).   ,  ,     International Journal of Fashion Studies (    )      Cultural Sociology ( ) Fashion Studies (  ).

 렖       (-, ),  1997      .    ,      Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture ( : , , )  ,    .

 ׸        ( ).   ,   , ,   .      (Fashion and Celebrity Culture, 2013) ,   ,   Fashion Theory Journal of British Film and Television Studies (   ),       .       ,     (Dirty Looks, 1993),  : , ,  (Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations, Analysis, 2000),     (More Dirty Looks, 2004) 蠫   (Fashion Cultures Revisited, 2012).  ׸     Film, Fashion and Consumption (,  ).  2012         .         ,      ,   (Films, Fashion and Design)  Edinburgh University Press.







      , ,    - ,      . ,   .      ,  ,        .        .   ,    ,  ,  ,    .          , ,      ,  ,   ,  ,           .     ,           ,         .     ,      .            ,    ,         .

       .        :          ,      .     ,      , ,,   ,     ,   -   ,     .   ,        ,       ⠖   .       ,      ,    ,     ꠖ        .  ,  , ,    ,    ,   , ,  ,      .  ,  ,   ,   .  ,  -     [1 - Zizek S.Living in the End Times. London; New York: Verso, 2011. P.480.].  ,         .

       - ,  , ,   .    ,  , ,    New Look,        . ,      ,      , , ,   .       ,            ,            .      ,   ,      . ,        ,     ,   ,    ,                ,    .

      ,   ,    ,     XIX XX ,  .            .    ,    ,  ,     ,   CD-,     .      ,        ,     :           .  ,      -,      ,       .  ,     ,          .

 2002   -    , : Ӡ       ,      젖     .  ,   - ,    ࠖ ,   ,    , ,  . ,    -      ,    ,        ,    .    ,          .    ,      :       ,   , Instagram Pinterest.           .

    ,      ,  , , .   ,     ,           (),    ... .    ..     (Geschichte der Kunst des Altertums, 1776),      ,     .      ,       ,      : , ,  ,   . ,         ,       ,         ( ,  ).       ,  .   ,   ,      -,  1960?    蠫 . ,    ,     ,  ,  ,  ,     [2 - Danto A. After the End of Art: Contemporary Art and the Pale of History. New Jersey: Princeton University Press, 1997. P.15.]. ,        :      XIX,    ,     , ,,    .  ,     ,    ;      .  ,    ,       ,   .       ,   ,     XIX :     ,      .        - ,              .  ,     ,      ,   .     ࠖ ,        ,      . ,  ,    ,      ,   ,        .

     ,         ,     .       ,     .     New Look,      ,      ,     (  1957).   ,     ,   ,       ,   ,     ,   ,        .       ,           .  ,      ,     ,    ,     .    ,         ,   ,  :     ,     . ,            ,      ,   ,    ,   3D-.     -      ,    ,      ,   ,        .     ,         .  , ,     :         ,    젖,       .




1

:  


 


   , -,       . -,    :  ! -,  :  . -, :    .       , , ,    .      ,  ,      . Ƞ  ,      ,   , . Ӡ   ,       .  ,     ,     . ʠXIX,         ,  ,    ,    ,         .   ,    ,   ,  .  ,          .       .     , ࠖ   ,       [3 -  , . : Stern R. Against Fashion: Clothing as Art, 18501930. Cambridge, MA: The MIT Press, 2004. P.9.].          . :    (Stitched Up: The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion, 2014)  . 񠖠      , ,  ,      ,     .   ,     ,   ,   ࠖ  ,    ,   ,  ,  ,      ,       [4 - Hoskins T.E.Stitched Up: The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion. London: Pluto Press, 2014. Pp. 160, 185202.].

    :     (Fashion Zeitgeist: Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System,  , 2005)      .    ,    :     ࠖ    [5 - Vinken B. Fashion Zeitgeist: Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System/ Transl. M.Hewson. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2005. P.63.].  ,     1860?,       ,     ,       ,     .       ,         ,     .    ,      ,        .          ,   ,    Chanel     ,   ,   ,     .          ,         .          ,      ໠,    .

     (The End of Fashion),  1999,,          . ,    ,     ,     , ,  ,  ,       .    Christian Lacroix            ,   ,    ,   ,    .  ,  ,     [6 - Agins T. The End of Fashion: The Mass Marketing of the Clothing Business. New York: William and Morrow, 1999. Pp. 280, 11.]. ߠ  2017,         . ߠ   , .   .     .     : , .    :     . Ѡ -   .   ,       ,     .

iPhone           ,  .   .   . ,  -   ,      .  1990?  Target    堖.  .      .  1996       -.      ,       .    [7 -   , 8  2017.].

 2015  ,    ,      (Anti-Fashion Manifesto), ,     ⠫     .  ,      ,  .        :   ,    [8 - Fairs M. Interview with Li Edelkoort [  ]. Dezeen. 2015. March 1. www.dezeen.com/2015/03/01/li-edelkoort-end-offashion-as-we-know-it-design-indaba-2015/ (   30.01.2017); Fairs M. Li Edelkoort Publishes Manifesto Explaining Why Fashion Is Obsolete// Dezeen. 2015. March 2. www.dezeen.com/2015/03/02/li-edelkoort-manifesto-anti-fashion-obsolete/ (   30.01.2017).].   ,    ,   ,  ,   ,     ,   ,       , ࠫ.

        ,        ,         ,   ⠫   ,   . Π  ,    ,      .           ,     :  !   !        ,         ,    .       ,             ,     .

         廠, , ,    .       ,     XIV,    ,  ,  ,         XIX , ,          XVIII.  ,        ,     XI ,   ,   .

  , ,          蠫.        ,       ,   ,      ,  , ,    .      ,   ,        .    ,     ,     ,      XIV.

   ,         ,     ,   .           ,   ,      .

     ,   ,    ,    . ߠ     ,       .     ,   XVII       :    ,       .   XIX,  grande couture (,     haute couture ),      .      ,      ,     ,    .    򠖠 XIX   XXࠖ        ,       (      ).  1947    New Look,        ,  .        ,   .  ,  ,        .        .       ,       ,    .  1960?       ,      .       Chanel (   ), 堖   (    ), 蠖 ,   ,   ,   ,   ,     .         ,     .

   : , , -ꠖ    . Ѡ   ,    ,      ,      .       頖   ,      (  ) ,   .  ,   ,    .      . ,    ࠖ ,     .    ,   ,    ,      ,  ,    -   ,    ,   ,    -  ,      [9 - Melly G. Revolt into Style: The Pop Arts in Britain. London: Allen Lane The Penguin Press, 1970. P.150.].   ,     .    , -:           ,     [10 -  , . : Steele Valerie. Women of Fashion. New York: Rizzoli, 1991. P.134.].   ,   Bazaar , Biba        ,   ,      ,     .     ,         ,   -   ,    ꠖ  .       ,     [11 - .: Feldman Ch.J. We Are the Mods: A Transnational History of a Youth Subculture. New York: Peter Lang, 2009.].

  1960?     ,    :      .    ,   ,        .    ,    (   ,    )  (  ).         ,     ,  ,        .       .

     :          (The Greening of America: How the Youth Revolution Is Trying to Make America Livable),  1970,     ,    頖   .    :    ,                .  ,      , ,        .    .     ,        .  ,   ,   ,   ,      .   ,  ,   ,       , 蠫    ,     ,        .     ,    ,       ,     .          [12 - Ibid. Pp. 209210.].

,  -    ,        .     ,      ,   - ,        -    (. 1 ).      .  ,      ;       [13 - Ibid. P.212.]. ,          .         - ,   .   .

 ,  ,         ,  ,    ,    .               .         .        ,   ,     ,    .     .            ,      .

      ,    .   1970?       ,        ,    . ,  ,   -,  Sex Pistols.       ,   ,   ,   ,  ,      ,    .     /  ,      ,     .    ,    ,      .        ,      ,         .

  ,       Comme des Gar?ons,   1980?      .   ,          .             ,  ,          .  ,     ,         .  ,   ,    ,  ,    ,   .        ,    .   ,   ,  -      ,    .

 ,   ,    ,      ,    .   ,           .      .  ,   ,  ,    .   .   ,   ,     ,      ,  ,    ,    ,        .               ,      .

Ӡ           .          .      ,  ,  ,     . ,       .   -,      ,  2013   ,           .            ,    ,       .

     ( ),   (       ).  , ,       ,  XXI     .  ,         .   ,   H&M Zara,        .      ,       ,     .

  ,    ,      蠖   蠫,        ,     .    ,         ,     ,   ,     ,      .

 ,    ,   ,     :      , ,   ,      .   ! .,     .       ,            ,     ,    .   :    ,             ,       ,  ,        ,     . Ƞ ,     [14 - Menkes S.The New Speed of Fashion// T Magazine. 2013. August 23. www.nytimes.com/2013/08/23/t-magazine/thenew-speed-of-fashion.html (   30.01.2017).].

   2015     Dior,     Lanvin,    Balenciaga   .         ,  ,       ,     . , -,   ,   ,   ,      :  ,    ,   . <> ߠ  ,     [15 - Horyn C. Why Raf Simons Is Leaving Christian Dior// The Cut. 2015. October 22. nymag.com/thecut/2015/10/rafsimons-leaving-christian-dior.html (   30.01.2017).].     Dior     .    ,       .    ,      ,  ,    :   .    ,    , .Ӡ    ,       ,      .   ,   .    .          ,   蠖Chanel, Dior, Vuitton  堖 ,     . <>    ,         ,    ,  ,    ,    , . <>    .  [16 -  , . : WWD Overheated!// WWD. 2015. October 28. Pp. 5059.]. , ,     ,    ,    Chanel,      .   ,   WWD  ,      , , ,    .    : ,     ?    ? ߠ ,   : ߠ :  ? : ߠ     [17 - Ibid.].

    ,  ,   ,     렖  ,   ,   .     -   ,       -    .      .          . ,   Balmain,      ,  H&M   ,    栖 ,   ,  Balmain,     .

   ,          . ,       ,       . ʠ      ,    ,      .     : 렖. ,    .          ?        ,   ,    , ?     ?   -      ,       ,      ,   .          .        렖   ,  .       .        Calvin Klein,            ,       Dior,       Calvin Klein  .

     , , .         :     ,   ,    堖   ,    -.    ,    ,      , .    : , -,  ,       .   .        ,  ,      .         , ,  ;  -    -, ,  ,     .

         (,  LVMH)     ( H&M).     ,         .   ,  ,     ,    (  )    ,         .

,        ,   Zara H&M.         ,   ,   , ,    . Ѡ           ,          .

            ?  ,     ,       -       .  ,   ,     ,        ,     .       ,         ,   . ,   , ,        . -          ?      .    . ,  -  Skincraft    ,    ,     .

   ,          .         ,     ,   .          ,  ,   ,  -    .  , ,   ,    ,   ,   ,      堖      .   3D-,           ,       .

          堖  .  ,     ,   ,    .         ,        .  ,       .     ,    ,      - .  ,      .            ,   .    -,          -,         . Ƞ     ,  ,      ,       .

      (Creativity) ,           ,          .  ,              .      ,          . ,   ,      .  , ,  ,   .     ,     , ,    [18 - Csikszentmihalyi M. Creativity: Flow and the Psychology of Discovery and Invention. New York: Harper Perennial, 1996. .1, 31, 28.].         ,    ,    頖.   :   ,           ?                 ?

      .       ,      .     ,   New Look,   . Ƞ      .   ,     ,      , ,  .       ,  ,     ,      ,        ,   ,       .

    ,  ,            .  :    ,  ,    ,   ,   ,        .          ,     [19 - Ibid. .89.].

 , ,        . ,        (Dance and Fashion),         .  ,   : -    (A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk),     , ,    -  .

         . ࠖ    ArtEZ;      -,   ,   ,     .      2007    .           .  Capriole,     2011          ,        Materialise,  3D-.

   ,        .     :      ,    . <>  , ,       ,          .   ,  ,       ⠖  , , ,  ,    [20 -   , . : Quinn B. Fashion Futures. London: Merrell, 2012. P.50.]. , ,          , ,       . ,   Capriole   ,  ,           (Capriole -   ).    , ,    , ,   ,     ,     ,       . <>   ,     [21 -   , . : Van Herpen I. Transforming Fashion. Groninger Museum and High Museum of Art, 2015.   .].






1.1. Franco Moschino. . 1990. .  .        



       ,      ,      ,  .        .   1990?           :   ! ,     1983    1994?,     ,          (.1.1).    !,        ,     (. 1.2).






1.2. ART MOSCHINO   -  1990 .   Moschino



  - :  ⠖   ,  ⠖    哻.    ,       ,     [22 -  .  :  / . . , ., . . .:   , 2012. .221, 232, 223.]. ʠ  ,    蠫        [23 -  . .233.].      ,  ,      ? ,  ,    ,           .        -           (2017),       .    ,             .          ,     ,  .     - ,      ,     ,       -,   ,      ,  ,  ,      [24 - fashion after Fashion// Mad Museum. 2017. April 27. madmuseum.org/exhibition/fashion-after-fashion (   01.06.2017).].    ,      , ࠖ  ,             .    :  , ,  ,    ,  , , ,  ,  .            :    ,    ?[25 - Deurell J., Eide H. (eds) Utopian BodiesFashion Looks Forward. Stockholm: Liljevalchs, 2015. P.11.]

   ,       ,    . ,     ,   ,         蠖  .            ,   ,     . ,  ,  ࠖ   ,    .




2

 


 ,  


    ,      頖 ,        .      ,            蠖.       ,       堖    ,      .   ,   ,    .       :   ,   ,    .   ,   .    ⠫  ,        (Schamhaftigkeit).  ,      ,    [26 -  ...  // :  4 . .3. .: , 1971. .136.]




  .


   .

   ,     (https://www.litres.ru/pages/biblio_book/?art=57101530)  .

      Visa, MasterCard, Maestro,    ,   ,     ,  PayPal, WebMoney, ., QIWI ,       .



notes



1


Zizek S.Living in the End Times. London; New York: Verso, 2011. P.480.




2


Danto A. After the End of Art: Contemporary Art and the Pale of History. New Jersey: Princeton University Press, 1997. P.15.




3


 , . : Stern R. Against Fashion: Clothing as Art, 18501930. Cambridge, MA: The MIT Press, 2004. P.9.




4


Hoskins T.E.Stitched Up: The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion. London: Pluto Press, 2014. Pp. 160, 185202.




5


Vinken B. Fashion Zeitgeist: Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System/ Transl. M.Hewson. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2005. P.63.




6


Agins T. The End of Fashion: The Mass Marketing of the Clothing Business. New York: William and Morrow, 1999. Pp. 280, 11.




7


  , 8  2017.




8


Fairs M. Interview with Li Edelkoort [  ]. Dezeen. 2015. March 1. www.dezeen.com/2015/03/01/li-edelkoort-end-offashion-as-we-know-it-design-indaba-2015/ (   30.01.2017); Fairs M. Li Edelkoort Publishes Manifesto Explaining Why Fashion Is Obsolete// Dezeen. 2015. March 2. www.dezeen.com/2015/03/02/li-edelkoort-manifesto-anti-fashion-obsolete/ (   30.01.2017).




9


Melly G. Revolt into Style: The Pop Arts in Britain. London: Allen Lane The Penguin Press, 1970. P.150.




10


 , . : Steele Valerie. Women of Fashion. New York: Rizzoli, 1991. P.134.




11


.: Feldman Ch.J. We Are the Mods: A Transnational History of a Youth Subculture. New York: Peter Lang, 2009.




12


Ibid. Pp. 209210.




13


Ibid. P.212.




14


Menkes S.The New Speed of Fashion// T Magazine. 2013. August 23. www.nytimes.com/2013/08/23/t-magazine/thenew-speed-of-fashion.html (   30.01.2017).




15


Horyn C. Why Raf Simons Is Leaving Christian Dior// The Cut. 2015. October 22. nymag.com/thecut/2015/10/rafsimons-leaving-christian-dior.html (   30.01.2017).




16


 , . : WWD Overheated!// WWD. 2015. October 28. Pp. 5059.




17


Ibid.




18


Csikszentmihalyi M. Creativity: Flow and the Psychology of Discovery and Invention. New York: Harper Perennial, 1996. .1, 31, 28.




19


Ibid. .89.




20


  , . : Quinn B. Fashion Futures. London: Merrell, 2012. P.50.




21


  , . : Van Herpen I. Transforming Fashion. Groninger Museum and High Museum of Art, 2015.   .




22


 .  :  / . . , ., . . .:   , 2012. .221, 232, 223.




23


 . .233.




24


fashion after Fashion// Mad Museum. 2017. April 27. madmuseum.org/exhibition/fashion-after-fashion (   01.06.2017).




25


Deurell J., Eide H. (eds) Utopian BodiesFashion Looks Forward. Stockholm: Liljevalchs, 2015. P.11.




26


 ...  // :  4 . .3. .: , 1971. .136.


