  .      
 


 
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      Trader Joes   ;

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      ,    ,     Fair trade  Free range;

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  PDF A4   .





 

  .      



Published by arrangement with Folio Literary Management, LLC.

Benjamin Lorr

THE SECRET LIFE OF GROCERIES:

THE DARK MIRACLE OF THE AMERICAN SUPERMARKET

 2020 by Benjamin Lorr

 .., , 2021

 .   һ, 2022

  .

    ,   ,    


* * *


  -        ,    .             


    , ,  ,          .  ,  .     ,   ,    ,      .    , ,       . ,     ,       -  .

   


* * *




   ,            .

 .,    .   






   


 ,         ,                .  ,      ,             ,        .

   [1 - Daniel Miller, A Theory of Shopping (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1998).]


        Whole Foods[2 - Whole Foods    ,         , ,    .]  -.        [3 -         ,        Whole Foods  ,    28   30  2015 .].  ,     ,           .       ,      Hall & Oates  ,  .    ,       ,  ,    ,            ,     .   ,       KIND TM[4 - KIND bars   ,     -  2004 .]     [5 -       ()   ,              .          -            .]   ,      ,   .        .  ,              ,         ,       .    ,    .    .   ,   ,    ,        ,        .       ,   : -   , ,    -       .       :  ,     Wild caught![6 -    .    .],     .

    .  ,               .    ,       ,   .    , -,   . ,    38-       .       ,       .    ,    ,   ,   2?2?2 ,    ,    ,      .     ,    .     ,    :  ,  ,  .      ,   .  ,    ,      ,     .   ,    .  ,      ,  , , ,  ,    . ,    - , , , ,   .   ,   ,            ,    ,  ,   , ,   ,      -   .  . ,   .        ,      ,   - ,            , :     ?

       .  .       ,     ,    ,          .    ,     ,    .       ,       ?      ,      ?   ,   ,           ,        ,       .

,    ,                     .  ,   ,  ,     .    ,    .   -        ,   ,          ,       .  ,  ,   - ,   ,            ,   ,   .   ,   .   ,   ,     ;      .     ,  .       .            ,     .        ,       .          .     .         ,   .        ,     Whole Foods  [7 -         -.]    ,      ,            .


* * *

-,   ,   ,       ,  ,       .           ,        ,      ,    .            ,         .      ,    ,    ,     ,                 ,       ,       ,          .     .          ,           ,  ,        .  Whole Foods.          .   ,     ,      .  ,     ,     .    ,    , ,   ,       .           .      ,    .           .


* * *

    .  ,   ,     ,   .     ,          , ,   ,       .      . Walmart    . Amazon    Whole Foods.      .      ,         .    ,   ,     Whole Foods    Amazon,      Amazon,       ,              ,      .

 ,    ,      .  2018    701     ,   ,           ;    38000  [8 - Jim Dudlicek, Bridget Goldschmidt, Randy Hofbauer, and Kat Martin, 86th Annual Report of the Grocery Industry, Progressive Grocer, April 2019.],        2   [9 - Andrew Seth and Geoffrey Randall, The Grocers: The Rise and Rise of Supermarket Chains (London: Kogan Page, 2011).].          :     ,     .         ,               ,          .                                   .    ,          ,      ,    .     ,     [10 -    ,     ,          ,     ,              ,     .],    ,    , , ,        ,      .

       .     ,    ,  .       10   [11 - USDA Food Expenditures, Table 7  Food expenditures by family and individuals as a share of disposable personal income, USDA Economic Research Service, January 26, 2016.],    40 ,      [12 - Derek Thompson, How America Spends Money: 100 Years in the Life of the Family Budget, Atlantic, April 5, 2012.]  1900   30       1950- .             .

   [13 -         1789  1815.],    1812 [14 -   :          .],  90       [15 - Beth Waterhouse, A Sustainable Future? www.pbs.org/ ktca/ farmhouses/ sustainable_future, accessed August 30, 2018.];    ,     ,    ,  ,    ,   ,     ,     ,  .     3      ,    .       ,           ,     ,     ,       ,       ,        ,  -  . -        ,     , ,        [16 - -!   ,    .   ,                   (        ).          ,  [      ]    ,  ,   ,       .  ,   ,                 ,     ,         .   ,    ,         .       . ,  -    ,     ,   .  ,     ,    .  1920-     -        ,  ,          ,    .                .].

,            ,    ,  ,      ,  -       .         ,      ,     :    ,     ,        ,    .

     ,          .     ,    ,    ,   -    .        ,      ,        ,                    ,     ,       ,      .         ,      ,    ,      ,        ,   ,     . ,         ,      ,    1        ,     ,              ,  ,    ,    , ,     ,  ,    ,        ,    ,    .

      ,        . ,      , .  ,   ,   , ,     , ,     ,  ,  ,     ,        .    ,       ,     ,         ?  ,   ,      ,           ,     ,    ,        ,    ,     ,         ,         ,     ,     , ,     ,    ,       ,      ,   , ,      ,    ,   .        -,                    Westside Market     112- .         .       ,     ,           ,  ,    .  ,      ,   ,   ,    ,     ,   ,   , ,       ,       ,      ,   ,    ,   ,    ,  ,       ,  ,   ,    .         ,   . ,  - , , ,       .   ,    ,  ,   .    ,     ;    , ,    ,    .  ,   ,        .    ,     ,   ,   ,              ,     .   ,   ,        ,     ,         ,         ,           ,  ,    .




 


  ,     ,         .        ,         -,      -,          .      ,  ,   ,   .  ,       .         .      , ,  ,      ,      ,        ,  ,        ,   ,    .          ,          .  ,    ,      .     32000  ,       ,  SKU[17 - SKU (.  . Stock Keeping Unit,      )    (),   ,  ,         /.].       120000 [18 - Food Marketing Institute Information Service, Supermarket Facts, Food Marketing Institute, 2018.]. ,    ,     ,   ,    .  :            ,   ,              ,       ,    .    ,      ,   -  ,     ,       , , ,      .

 ,    ,     . ,    [19 -            ,     , 21  2016 .], ,    ,      800  ,  ,     ,     .     ,  :        ,   ,                    ,      ,                .      ,       140   [20 - Kimberly Kindy, USDA plan to speed up poultry- processing lines could increase risk of bird abuse, Washington Post, October 29, 2013.]?                   ,         ,   ;       , ,   , ,  ,  ,    ,   ,     .    . ,     .  ,    ,  ,  ,   ,      ,  :    ,   ,        ;   ,          ,   , , ,  ,      .    .      ,           ,     ,   .

   ,        .   ,   ,  ,   ,     ,       ;     ,     :    ,      .  .

    , ,      ,   ,    ,           ,    ,      .

     .          ,     ,    ,     ,      ,        , ,         ,  ,    .    ;   . . . ,          :    ;  ,          .      .   ,          ,           .  ;         .      ,      .   ,            ,     .     ,       ,     ;    ,      ,    .

    껠        .        .   ,  ,  ,   ,   ,        ,     -    ,           .      ,             .   ,    ,        ,   ,  ,   ,        .

      ,      ,  ,      : .  ,  ,          , ,  ,  ; ,      ,              .        .  ,  ,        ,        ,   ,        ,    .  ,      .   ,    .  , , , ,    ,  .       ,    ,     ,      ,       ,    ,  .     ,  -,       ,  , ,     , ,   .     ,  , , ,    .  ,        ,  ,      ,     Whole Foods,    ,            ,     , ,    .           ,     ,       ,        . ,   ,    ;   .




 I

  Trader Joes


    ;          , , .    ,   .

 , 1894[21 - Gustave Rivi?re, as quoted in Susanne Freidbergs exquisite Fresh: A Perishable History (New York: Belknap Press, 2010).]




    


           .    .  , ,  1965 [22 -        ,      2015  2018.,         The Wages of Success: How Trader Joe Coulombe Made It Happen.      Tail Othe Cock      , ,   oldlarestaurants.com],  Tail O the Cock.    ,          ,    ,  .  - .       - ,   ,     -  .  ,      ,     ,  ,    .

 Tail O the Cock      :     ,   ,   ,        .     ,        ,         ,         ,   ,       . ,       -   -,        ,     .      ,    ,     ,  -     1960-,      ,     [23 - Marc Wanamaker, San FernandoValley: Images of America (Charleston: Arcadia Publishing, 2011).].      ,    .

        .   ,    .         - Pronto Markets.   ,  ,       - ,     Sears  .    ,    .          .         ,      .  ,       ,         250      ,    [24 - Allen Liles, Oh Thank Heaven!: The Story of the Southland Corporation (Dallas: Southland Corporation, 1977).].   ,    :     ,   ;     ,   ,   ,  .        . ,   -      ,   .     ,         ,  ,  . -    ,   ,     ,        ,            .

   Adohr Stock Farms    : ,    -,           .           2020 ,      100  [25 - The largest of which would be the Mudanjiang city dairy in China, spanning 22,500,000 acres.],   ,  1965      .    ,    .  ,     .       ,   30     10    :          -,     .          [26 - Josh Harkinson, Youre Drinking the Wrong Kind of Milk, Mother Jones, March 12, 2014.].    ;     ,        -   .

  .     ,     .    .

     . -      : , , ,    .        ,  ,        ,              [27 -     !  1965  -     (Judy Pasternak and Jill Stewart, A Lasting Legacy: Merritt Adamson Jrs Land Dealings Changed Malibu Forever, Los Angeles Times, March 16, 1986; David K.Randall, The King and Queen of Malibu: The True Story of the Battle for Paradise (New York: W.W.Norton and Company, 2016).).  , ,    ,   ,      ,    ,    ,     .    10        ,  Malibu Sequit     14000 ,          ,   .       ,      ,      ,    ,       .                   ,        , , ,  - ,     .   ,          ,    ,         Adohr,     ,    ,  .  ,        ,           ,     .  1965        4000 . -     .      .  - , ,       ,   .   ,          Lamborghini   ,    ,   ,       Tail O the Cock,    , ].    ,     .

   .      :

,   Adohr.     .

   ,   . Pronto Markets   . ,              ,                     , , ,    ,          .


* * *

仠   7-Eleven.   Slurpee     ,     ,   ,  .    .          Pronto Markets   .    ,    ,   ,       7-Eleven     .

   ,        ,   ,      [28 - Convenience store    ,  ;   .].    , .        , ,   ,     , ,     ,           ,    ,    ,        , -      ,      .

  ,    ,   ,  ,     Southland Corp  1965 , ,    ,       ,    ,  -       ,  . .             .

    ,    [29 - Gavin Weightman, The Frozen Water Trade: A True Story (New York: Hachette Books, 2004).].     ,   ,  1000.  ..      ,          .           ,        -,   ,                .     .       ,            ,          , ,   ,    .

    ,   ,    .  1890         [30 - Allen Liles, Oh Thank Heaven!: The Story of the Southland Corporation (Dallas: Southland Corporation, 1977).],           ,        -[31 -   ,     -   ,       ,   ,          ().      50  ,   1940-        ,       .].       ,        ,      :  ,                 .        .

         1927 ,     ,  ,        .        ,        ,       ,    .  , ,      .     .            ,       ,        ,     .    .       ,   ,          ,     .

  .

          ,   ,              .  ,         ,       ,      .         ,        .

  ,          .             ,   :             ,      7-Eleven.   .     ,        7  .  1951           ,   ,     ,      72  .

 1965 ,          ,   -.

  1965    398  ,       2261,        . ,     Pronto Markets  1957                .

         ,     ,     .       ,   . ,   ,           ,        .            ,   ,  ,     .      - :  ,      .          ,  Pronto,      .           ,   , , ,   ,  -  7-Eleven,  ,  .

 ,  ,   ,     ,       :          ,          .




 


    ,       ,        ,  . ,     -  ,   , ,   .      3  ,         .    .             ,   ,  ,      ,       .  ,      .   ;  .   ,   ,        ,    ,   - .   ,     .        ,  .   ,  ,     ,      .   ,            ,                ,        -    Hussongs Cantina  .     .      .    ,    ,         ,   .  .     ,     ;   ,     ,              .        ,        .     ,        . ,     ,      ,   ,        ,   .    :     .      ,      ,       50 ,      ,      .  , , ,  ,       ,     ,     ,    .     , ,   ,   ,       ; ,       ,     ,    ,        .  ,     ,     ,    ,         .

  ,            .       ,   ,       ,   ,   .   ,        .       , ,  ,      ,     . . . .    ,    ,  ,      . ,    ,     C[32 - C-suite    ,        Chief: chief executive officer  CEO (  ), chief operating officer  COO (   )  ..;  , -.]     ,   , ,     ,    ,      ,   .   ,     .     1200   [33 -     ,  -     Trader Joes.   ,                   .       1200   ?  .     ,      , ,   ,     ,      , -,   .   ,     .].   , ,      ,     .       ,    ,      ,       .       ,       ,     ,        ,    .       ,         -,    ,    ,   ,          .   .   ,    ,   ,   .

   ,   ,    , ,   ,   ,   .  Trader Joes,  ,     ,       ,        ,    .      TJ    ,   ,      ,       ,        ,          ,       .

           ,            : ,    ,   ,  ,    , , ,   ,            ,         ,     . ,      ,  ,    . ,      [34 - ,      ,   :        .      .  :      ,    .  ,      ,   ,  ,        ? ,  ,          .],     ,        .  1967        2017 .  1978        ,        ,   ,          ,     .

    ,           [35 -     ,   .    ,    .    ,       ,       ,            .          ,              Wall Street Journal  1982       ,      : ,  ,          .                       Wishbone      ,  .   ,     -   , , , ,          ,         ,          :      ,   ,    ,        ,    ,      -.     ,  , ,  Safeway       .  Safeway  ,             :    Safeway      .   (  )             Trader Joes,      .],     ,      ,              ,        , ,    XX .

   ,     .   ,     .      18    ,     .      .  -,   .      ,     . ,     ,          ,   .            .

         ,            .  1965 ,     Pronto Markets,    -  ,        - .      .       [36 -        ,          (, 1988).].           .          ,      .  ,      .       ,       ,   ,       ,      .     ;    ,                .        ,  ,      ,   -.         ,    ,        ,    .    ,    .   -    .       -.      ,   ,                 .




   


[37 -            Rachel Bowlbys Carried Away: The Invention of Modern Shopping (New York: Columbia University Press, 2002); Tracey Deutschs Building a Housewifes Paradise: Gender, Politics, and American Grocery Stores in the Twentieth Century (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2010); James M.Mayos The American Grocery Store: The Business Evolution of an Architectural Space (Santa Barbara: Praeger, 1993); Shelly L.Kochs A Theory of Grocery Shopping (London: Bloomsbury, 2012); Randolph McAuslands Supermarkets: 50 Years of Progress: The History of a Remarkable American Institution (Toronto: Maclean Hunter, 1980); Max M.Zimmermans The Super Market: A Revolution in Distribution (New York: McGraw Hill, 1955); Susanne Freidbergs Fresh: A Perishable History (New York: Belknap Press, 2010); Jeffrey M.Pilchers Food History: Critical and Primary Sources (London: Bloomsbury Press, 2014).     ,     .]

   ,   .            ,         ,    .        [38 - William Greer, America the Bountiful: How the Supermarket Came to Main Street: An Oral History (New York: Beatrice Companies, 1986).],             -[39 -  .],            -             .   ,   . ,  ,   ,  :      [40 -               : William Greer, America the Bountiful: How the Supermarket Came to Main Street: An Oral History (New York: Beatrice Companies, 1986); Julian H.Handler, The Food Industry Executives Pleasure Reader (New York: Media Books, 1969); and Richard Longstreth, The Drive- In, Supermarket, and the Transformation of Commercial Space in Los Angeles 19141941 (Cambridge: The MIT Press, 2000)]    ,    .        Imperial Cookies, ,   .        .     軠 , , ,    .      , , , .    ,     .

   ,      .   , ,  . ,   , ,  ,    ,     ,   ,     .         ,   .         ,   ,          ,            ,          ,   .          :  -     .      ,    ,    ,      .      :      , ,  , ,         .      , ,     ,   [41 -      ,     ,       .           .].

                ,       SPA          .      [42 -        ,      .],          .          ,   ,    (, ),   ,   .

   . ,  ,  ,             ,           .      ,  ,     ,     .       ,         [43 - James M.Mayo, The American Grocery Store: The Business Evolution of an Architectural Space (Santa Barbara: Praeger, 1993); William Greer, America the Bountiful: How the Supermarket Came to Main Street: An Oral History (New York: Beatrice Companies, 1986).].

      ,         . ,   ,     .        ,         [44 - Shelly L.Koch, A Theory of Grocery Shopping (London: Bloomsbury, 2012).].       . ,           .      [45 - William Greer, America the Bountiful: How the Supermarket Came to Main Street: An Oral History (New York: Beatrice Companies, 1986).],       - ,           .         ,    .            .        ,   ,   ;      .


* * *

            ,       , , ,       ,       ,       .

    .    .     , ,   ,    ,      ? ,   ,  ,       1817 [46 - Stanley Sacharow and Roger Griffen, Food Packaging: A Guide for the Supplier, Processor, and Distributor (New York: AVI Publishing, 1970).].  , ,    ;       ,      ,      : , , .

,  1850- ,  : ,       ,  .      .        , 10000  ,  ,      -  ,  ,  , .   .

        [47 - Matt Blitz, How the Cardboard Box Was Invented, www.gizmodo.com, February 9, 2015.].          ,       ,        .    ,  ,       ,   1890          [48 - Allen Smith, Robert Gair: A Study (New York: Dial Press, 1939).],      .       :       ,       .

       .            ,    .            ,      .      , ,        ,     .            ,      :   ,        .  1900     :            [49 - Thomas Hine, The Total Package: The Evolution and Secret Meaning of Boxes, Bottles, Cans, and Tubes (New York: Back Bay Books, 1997).].

       .       [50 -    ,    -    ,       ,          ,        .   ,         Google     .       ,   1500      ,        .        ,      Fortis,       .    2000   , ,    ()   ,   ,  ,     .   ,     XVII         .      1611               ,         .         ,     .          , , ,   ,     ,   .       ,  ,   . Stoughtons Drops, Turlingtons Original Balsam, ,        . ,  ,  ,          .   ,            ,    ,  ,  ,            ,      ,     ,    .].    .   , ,  .         National Biscuit Company,    Nabisco,     RITZ Crackers  Shredded Wheat.  , ,         :    ,      :   [51 - Diana Twede, Susan Selke, Donatien-Pascal Kamdem, and David Shires, Cartons, Crates, and Corrugated (Lancaster, PA: DEStech Publications, 2015); James Beniger, The Control Revolution: Technological and Economic Origins of the Information Society (New York: Harvard University Press, 1989).],        . Nabisco    ,    Uneeda Biscuit.       .      .  1900  Nabisco   100   Uneeda  . ,      ,            .       .

          . .  .    ,   ,    ,       .  .  ,       ,       ;        .        :       ,     -     ?       .    ,     ,     [52 -  ,    ,    ,       ,  :            ,  .].  Kelloggs   , Crisco   ,  Pepsodent   ,       ,   .

   1916         . .  ,    -[53 - Charles Patrick and Joseph Mooney, The Mid-South and Its Builders: Being the Story of the Development and a Forecast of the Richest Agricultural Region in the World (Memphis: Thomas Briggs Company, 1920); George Morris, Men of the South (New Orleans: The James of Jones Company, 1922); John Brooks, A Corner in Piggly Wiggly, New Yorker, June 6, 1959.],   ,          ,      ,   ,   ,        .         . ,  ,     .

, ,       ,  ,         ,  ,      .     .  14    ,    : ,      ,          .       ,                 .  ,   ,     .  ,   ,  ,  :   ,      ,      .

 ,     .

            [54 - Charles Perry, The Cafeteria: AnL.A. Original, Los Angeles Times, November 3, 2003.].       ,     .         1893         ,        .  1898      Childs Restaurant[55 -  .]  -,    ,       ,      .      .  -       ,            .

  ,           .     ,   ,   ,       ,         , ,        . ,    ,       , ,           ,     , ,   ,   . ,     ,     ,         .

         .

   ,        ,           ,     ,   . ,   ,      -   ,     [56 - Michael Freeman, Clarence Saunders and the Founding of Piggly Wiggly: The Rise and Fall of a Memphis Maverick (Charleston: The History Press, 2011).],       ,           .           Piggly Wiggly.

1916 ,      ,        ,       .    ,   .     .         .

        6 , ,       ,       .    Piggly Wiggly   ,  , ,   ,   ,        .          .   ,    [57 - Im indebted to Rachel Bowlbys wonderful Carried Away for this fantastic insight.]:    ,  ,     .

   -  .    ,    .        :       [58 - And here I am grateful to Daniel Miller, whose writing in A Theory of Shopping on the meaning Britains families gained from their shopping helped clarify my thinking on the subject.],        ,      ,      .   ,           . ,  ,     ,    ,   ,    . ,  ,         .

 1930       2500 Piggly Wiggly,    .                 ,  ,   ,       [59 -        , ..    ,    , ,                .        :          ,      -.   ,   ,   Piggly Wiggly,    ,   - ,        .   ,     .              ,       Piggly Wiggly,  ,  ,    ,     .       ,       ,       -.   Piggly Wiggly   39 $  60 $,     ,            75 $  124 $.   .    .    ,  -            ,  , ,            Piggly Wiggly.        ,     .          ,   -,               .   .      ,       ,     Piggly Wiggly.       ,        .].     .          ,    ,      ,    ,      .

 .     ,   ,   ,     ,  .     Kroger[60 - Max M.Zimmerman, The Super Market: A Revolution in Distribution (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1955).],     ,     .    ,       .    ,   ,          ,         .  1929  ,       ,       ,   .

    :          .      ,        ,                 ,  -, ,     .

    [61 -  .],     .         .    ,    ,  ,     ,         5%,      15%, 20%,      25%  .  ,          ,      ,    2 ,       .

  [62 -         ,      -,           ,     ,   ,     Le Bon Marche.      ?     ,    ?         ,    ?       .].

    - Kroger    -[63 - Max M.Zimmerman, The Super Market: A Revolution in Distribution (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1955).],     , , ,     ,   ,    ,     ,        .      :     ,       ?   -.    .           .                  .

     .         ,  .   ,      ,    -    ?

   .   .

    .       ,          .    ,   1930 ,       King Kullen   171-   Jamaica Avenue  .     : King Kullen,     .    ,          ,             .

       ,    .   .      .       .      ,   .  [64 - Thomas Hine, The Total Package: The Evolution and Secret Meaning of Boxes, Bottles, Cans, and Tubes (New York: Back Bay Books, 1997).]  ,      . -      .           .  1936             ,        .




  .


   .

   ,     (https://www.litres.ru/bendzhamin-lorr/taynaya-zhizn-supermarketov-o-chem-vam-nikogda-ne-rasskazh/)  .

      Visa, MasterCard, Maestro,    ,   ,     ,  PayPal, WebMoney, ., QIWI ,       .



notes








1


Daniel Miller, A Theory of Shopping (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1998).




2


Whole Foods    ,         , ,    .




3


        ,        Whole Foods  ,    28   30  2015 .




4


KIND bars   ,     -  2004 .




5


      ()   ,              .          -            .




6


   .    .




7


        -.




8


Jim Dudlicek, Bridget Goldschmidt, Randy Hofbauer, and Kat Martin, 86th Annual Report of the Grocery Industry, Progressive Grocer, April 2019.




9


Andrew Seth and Geoffrey Randall, The Grocers: The Rise and Rise of Supermarket Chains (London: Kogan Page, 2011).




10


   ,     ,          ,     ,              ,     .




11


USDA Food Expenditures, Table 7  Food expenditures by family and individuals as a share of disposable personal income, USDA Economic Research Service, January 26, 2016.




12


Derek Thompson, How America Spends Money: 100 Years in the Life of the Family Budget, Atlantic, April 5, 2012.




13


        1789  1815.




14


  :          .




15


Beth Waterhouse, A Sustainable Future? www.pbs.org/ ktca/ farmhouses/ sustainable_future, accessed August 30, 2018.




16


-!   ,    .   ,                   (        ).          ,  [      ]    ,  ,   ,       .  ,   ,                 ,     ,         .   ,    ,         .       . ,  -    ,     ,   .  ,     ,    .  1920-     -        ,  ,          ,    .                .




17


SKU (.  . Stock Keeping Unit,      )    (),   ,  ,         /.




18


Food Marketing Institute Information Service, Supermarket Facts, Food Marketing Institute, 2018.




19


           ,     , 21  2016 .




20


Kimberly Kindy, USDA plan to speed up poultry- processing lines could increase risk of bird abuse, Washington Post, October 29, 2013.




21


Gustave Rivi?re, as quoted in Susanne Freidbergs exquisite Fresh: A Perishable History (New York: Belknap Press, 2010).




22


       ,      2015  2018.,         The Wages of Success: How Trader Joe Coulombe Made It Happen.      Tail Othe Cock      , ,   oldlarestaurants.com




23


Marc Wanamaker, San FernandoValley: Images of America (Charleston: Arcadia Publishing, 2011).




24


Allen Liles, Oh Thank Heaven!: The Story of the Southland Corporation (Dallas: Southland Corporation, 1977).




25


The largest of which would be the Mudanjiang city dairy in China, spanning 22,500,000 acres.




26


Josh Harkinson, Youre Drinking the Wrong Kind of Milk, Mother Jones, March 12, 2014.




27


    !  1965  -     (Judy Pasternak and Jill Stewart, A Lasting Legacy: Merritt Adamson Jrs Land Dealings Changed Malibu Forever, Los Angeles Times, March 16, 1986; David K.Randall, The King and Queen of Malibu: The True Story of the Battle for Paradise (New York: W.W.Norton and Company, 2016).).  , ,    ,   ,      ,    ,    ,     .    10        ,  Malibu Sequit     14000 ,          ,   .       ,      ,      ,    ,       .                   ,        , , ,  - ,     .   ,          ,    ,         Adohr,     ,    ,  .  ,        ,           ,     .  1965        4000 . -     .      .  - , ,       ,   .   ,          Lamborghini   ,    ,   ,       Tail O the Cock,    , 




28


Convenience store    ,  ;   .




29


Gavin Weightman, The Frozen Water Trade: A True Story (New York: Hachette Books, 2004).




30


Allen Liles, Oh Thank Heaven!: The Story of the Southland Corporation (Dallas: Southland Corporation, 1977).




31


  ,     -   ,       ,   ,          ().      50  ,   1940-        ,       .




32


C-suite    ,        Chief: chief executive officer  CEO (  ), chief operating officer  COO (   )  ..;  , -.




33


    ,  -     Trader Joes.   ,                   .       1200   ?  .     ,      , ,   ,     ,      , -,   .   ,     .




34


,      ,   :        .      .  :      ,    .  ,      ,   ,  ,        ? ,  ,          .




35


    ,   .    ,    .    ,       ,       ,            .          ,              Wall Street Journal  1982       ,      : ,  ,          .                       Wishbone      ,  .   ,     -   , , , ,          ,         ,          :      ,   ,    ,        ,    ,      -.     ,  , ,  Safeway       .  Safeway  ,             :    Safeway      .

   (  )             Trader Joes,      .




36


       ,          (, 1988).




37


           Rachel Bowlbys Carried Away: The Invention of Modern Shopping (New York: Columbia University Press, 2002); Tracey Deutschs Building a Housewifes Paradise: Gender, Politics, and American Grocery Stores in the Twentieth Century (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2010); James M.Mayos The American Grocery Store: The Business Evolution of an Architectural Space (Santa Barbara: Praeger, 1993); Shelly L.Kochs A Theory of Grocery Shopping (London: Bloomsbury, 2012); Randolph McAuslands Supermarkets: 50 Years of Progress: The History of a Remarkable American Institution (Toronto: Maclean Hunter, 1980); Max M.Zimmermans The Super Market: A Revolution in Distribution (New York: McGraw Hill, 1955); Susanne Freidbergs Fresh: A Perishable History (New York: Belknap Press, 2010); Jeffrey M.Pilchers Food History: Critical and Primary Sources (London: Bloomsbury Press, 2014).     ,     .




38


William Greer, America the Bountiful: How the Supermarket Came to Main Street: An Oral History (New York: Beatrice Companies, 1986).




39


 .




40


              : William Greer, America the Bountiful: How the Supermarket Came to Main Street: An Oral History (New York: Beatrice Companies, 1986); Julian H.Handler, The Food Industry Executives Pleasure Reader (New York: Media Books, 1969); and Richard Longstreth, The Drive- In, Supermarket, and the Transformation of Commercial Space in Los Angeles 19141941 (Cambridge: The MIT Press, 2000)




41


     ,     ,       .           .




42


       ,      .




43


James M.Mayo, The American Grocery Store: The Business Evolution of an Architectural Space (Santa Barbara: Praeger, 1993); William Greer, America the Bountiful: How the Supermarket Came to Main Street: An Oral History (New York: Beatrice Companies, 1986).




44


Shelly L.Koch, A Theory of Grocery Shopping (London: Bloomsbury, 2012).




45


William Greer, America the Bountiful: How the Supermarket Came to Main Street: An Oral History (New York: Beatrice Companies, 1986).




46


Stanley Sacharow and Roger Griffen, Food Packaging: A Guide for the Supplier, Processor, and Distributor (New York: AVI Publishing, 1970).




47


Matt Blitz, How the Cardboard Box Was Invented, www.gizmodo.com, February 9, 2015.




48


Allen Smith, Robert Gair: A Study (New York: Dial Press, 1939).




49


Thomas Hine, The Total Package: The Evolution and Secret Meaning of Boxes, Bottles, Cans, and Tubes (New York: Back Bay Books, 1997).




50


   ,    -    ,       ,          ,        .   ,         Google     .       ,   1500      ,        .        ,      Fortis,       .    2000   , ,    ()   ,   ,  ,     .   ,     XVII         .      1611               ,         .         ,     .          , , ,   ,     ,   .       ,  ,   . Stoughtons Drops, Turlingtons Original Balsam, ,        . ,  ,  ,          .   ,            ,    ,  ,  ,            ,      ,     ,    .




51


Diana Twede, Susan Selke, Donatien-Pascal Kamdem, and David Shires, Cartons, Crates, and Corrugated (Lancaster, PA: DEStech Publications, 2015); James Beniger, The Control Revolution: Technological and Economic Origins of the Information Society (New York: Harvard University Press, 1989).




52


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53


Charles Patrick and Joseph Mooney, The Mid-South and Its Builders: Being the Story of the Development and a Forecast of the Richest Agricultural Region in the World (Memphis: Thomas Briggs Company, 1920); George Morris, Men of the South (New Orleans: The James of Jones Company, 1922); John Brooks, A Corner in Piggly Wiggly, New Yorker, June 6, 1959.




54


Charles Perry, The Cafeteria: AnL.A. Original, Los Angeles Times, November 3, 2003.




55


 .




56


Michael Freeman, Clarence Saunders and the Founding of Piggly Wiggly: The Rise and Fall of a Memphis Maverick (Charleston: The History Press, 2011).




57


Im indebted to Rachel Bowlbys wonderful Carried Away for this fantastic insight.




58


And here I am grateful to Daniel Miller, whose writing in A Theory of Shopping on the meaning Britains families gained from their shopping helped clarify my thinking on the subject.




59


       , ..    ,    , ,                .        :          ,      -.   ,   ,   Piggly Wiggly,    ,   - ,        .   ,     .              ,       Piggly Wiggly,  ,  ,    ,     .       ,       ,       -.   Piggly Wiggly   39 $  60 $,     ,            75 $  124 $.   .    .    ,  -            ,  , ,            Piggly Wiggly.        ,     .          ,   -,               .   .      ,       ,     Piggly Wiggly.       ,        .




60


Max M.Zimmerman, The Super Market: A Revolution in Distribution (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1955).




61


 .




62


        ,      -,           ,     ,   ,     Le Bon Marche.      ?     ,    ?         ,    ?       .




63


Max M.Zimmerman, The Super Market: A Revolution in Distribution (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1955).




64


Thomas Hine, The Total Package: The Evolution and Secret Meaning of Boxes, Bottles, Cans, and Tubes (New York: Back Bay Books, 1997).


