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      - 2016.     $39[4 - Gabriella Pailla, Is Melanias Infamous Zara Jacket a Ripoff of Another Designer? The Cut, June 22, 2018, https://www.thecut.com/2018/06/melanias-zara-jacket-r13-ripoff.html (https://www.thecut.com/2018/06/melanias-zara-jacket-r13-ripoff.html).].       ,      , -           ,         ,        .

 ,             ,  ࠖ        Inditex   (  )          $67[5 - Chase Peterson-Withorn, The Full List of Every American Billionaire 2016, Forbes, March 1, 2016, https://www.forbes.com/sites/chasewithorn/2016/01/the-full-list-of-every-american-billionaire-2016/ (https://www.forbes.com/sites/chasewithorn/2016/01/the-full-list-of-every-american-billionaire-2016/).].

      .  ࠖ         :         [6 - The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton, Environmental Justice Foundation, 2007, http://www.cottoncampaign.org/uploads/3/9/4/7/39474145/2007_ejf_deadlychemicalsincotton.pdf (http://www.cottoncampaign.org/uploads/3/9/4/7/39474145/2007_ejf_deadlychemicalsincotton.pdf).].

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               ,       .  2013.    (Center for Media Research) ,        [9 - Brick by Brick: The State of the Shopping Center, Nielson, May 17, 2013, https://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2013/brick-by-brick-the-state-of-the-shopping-center.html (https://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2013/brick-by-brick-the-state-of-the-shopping-center.html).].     ,     ,     1980- .,           2018-[10 - Alexandra Schwartz, Rent the Runway Wants to Lend You Your Look, The NewYorker, October 22, 2018, https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2018/10/22/rent-the-runway-wants-to-lend-you-your-look (https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2018/10/22/rent-the-runway-wants-to-lend-you-your-look).]. ,         80  [11 - Andrew Morgan, The True Cost, documentary (Life Is My Movie Entertainment, 2015).].

  ,    2030.  8,5 ,              2  4%  .      ,   2030.    102  [12 - John Kerr and John Landry, The Pulse of the Fashion Industry, Boston Consulting Group and Global Fashion Agenda, May 2017, 8.]    62   ,   63% .  ,   Boston Consulting Group  Global Fashion Agenda,  500 .

  .                  .           [13 - Claire Press, Why the Fashion Industry Is Out of Control, Australian Financial Review, April 23, 2016, https://www.afr.com/lifestyle/fashion/why-the-fashion-industry-is-out-of-control-20160419-goa5ic (https://www.afr.com/lifestyle/fashion/why-the-fashion-industry-is-out-of-control-20160419-goa5ic).].  -   Instagram?  ⠖      .    :   ,  , ,   ,  ,        .   .    .   ,       !   -,     ,     ,          .    -,  .        ;   ,    .

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   1970- .    70% ,  ,    [16 - Stephanie Vatz, Why America Stopped Making Its Own Clothes, KQED News, May 24, 2013, https://www.kqed.org/lowdown/7939/madeinamerica (https://www.kqed.org/lowdown/7939/madeinamerica).].           .             .    1980- .     ,               .    ,      ,         .          . ,     ,  ,           젖         ,    .   :  30   ,     ,   $500,     ,     $2,4[17 - Schwartz, Rent the Runway.].

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       .  1991.            56,2%[18 - Stephanie Clifford, U.S. Textile Plants Return, With Floors Largely Empty of People, The NewYork Times, September 12, 2013, https://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/20/business/us-textile-factories-return.html (https://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/20/business/us-textile-factories-return.html).],   2012.    2,5%.      (Bureau of Labor Statistics),            1,2.           .             :  ,   [19 - Kate Abnett, Does Reshoring Fashion Manufacturing Make Sense? The Business of Fashion, March 9, 2016, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/can-fashion-manufacturing-come-home (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/can-fashion-manufacturing-come-home).].    1980- .      ,     .       [20 - Global Fashion Statistics International Apparel, Fashion United, 2018.].               :   1980- .   34,2,   57,8.

         .    2017.      $5,7     $82,6[21 - Value of the U.S. Apparel Trade Worldwide from 2007 to 2017, Statista, n.d., https://www.statista.com/statistics/242290/value-of-the-us-apparel-trade-worldwide/ (https://www.statista.com/statistics/242290/value-of-the-us-apparel-trade-worldwide/).].  2017.   92,4% [22 -     ,   , 4 2019.].         ,     軠        .

    ,        ,    . ,  2012.          ,   ,       ,   [23 - Steve Denning, Why Are the US Olympic Uniforms Being Made in China? Forbes, July 23, 2012, http://www.forbes.com/sites/stevedenning/2012/07/23/why-are-the-us-olympic-uniforms-being-made-in-china (http://www.forbes.com/sites/stevedenning/2012/07/23/why-are-the-us-olympic-uniforms-being-made-in-china).]. Forbes   -.           ,    .      ,   , ,     -         .

     .   ,  ,       .    2016. 67%  ,     $50   ,   ,  $85  ,   [24 - Diana Verde Nieto, What Does Made in America Luxury Really Look Like? Luxury Society, March 20, 2017, https://www.luxurysociety.com/en/articles/2017/what-does-made-america-luxury-really-look/ (https://www.luxurysociety.com/en/articles/2017/what-does-made-america-luxury-really-look/).].        $100.    .

      .  2018.           [25 - Luisa Kroll and Kerry Dolan, Meet the Members of the Three-Comma Club, Forbes, March 6, 2018, https://www.forbes.com/billionaires/#720a681d251c (https://www.forbes.com/billionaires/#720a681d251c).].    ,   Walmart.



           .         [26 - Morgan, The True Cost.],      ,           .  ,   ,   2%   [27 - Maxine Bdat and Michael Shank, There Is a Major Climate Issue Hiding in Your Closet: Fast Fashion, Fast Company, November 11, 2016, https://www.fastcompany.com/3065532/there-is-a-major-climate-issue-hiding-in-your-closet-fast-fashion (https://www.fastcompany.com/3065532/there-is-a-major-climate-issue-hiding-in-your-closet-fast-fashion).].

     ,   蠖  ,  .  2016. ,      H&M, Next  Esprit         . ( ,       .) -     ,  , .   ,        .

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      .           .    ,      20%    [29 - Julia Jacobo, How Sustainable Brands Are Turning Their Backs on Fast Fashion Trend, ABC News, September 13, 2016, https://abcnews.go.com/US/sustainable-brands-turning-backs-fast-fashion-trend/story?id=39590457 (https://abcnews.go.com/US/sustainable-brands-turning-backs-fast-fashion-trend/story?id=39590457).].    10%    [30 - Nathalie Remy, Eveline Speelman, and Steven Swartz, Style Thats Sustainable: A New Fast-Fashion Formula, McKinsey & Company, October 2016.],     1   23  .

     ,   [31 - Kate Abnett, Three Years After Rana Plaza, Has Anything Changed? The Business of Fashion, April 19, 2016, https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/discussions/can-fashion-industry-become-sustainable/-years-on-from-rana-plaza-has-anything-changed-sustainability-safety-worker-welfare (https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/discussions/can-fashion-industry-become-sustainable/-years-on-from-rana-plaza-has-anything-changed-sustainability-safety-worker-welfare).].       150    25,3 [32 - Marianna Kerppola etal., H&Ms Global Supply Chain Management Sustainability: Factories and Fast Fashion, University of Michigan, February 8, 2014.],      (World Wildlife Fund, WWF) ,          2700 [33 - The Impact of a Cotton T-Shirt, World Wildlife Fund, January 16, 2013, https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt (https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt).].

 堖   ,           [34 - Echo Huang, The Once Pristine Waters of Antarctica Now Contain Plastic Fibers, Quartz, June 7, 2018, https://qz.com/1299485/antarcticas-waters-now-contain-plastic-fibers/ (https://qz.com/1299485/antarcticas-waters-now-contain-plastic-fibers/).].  ,   2016.     -,  40%     ,     ,     ,       .  90%  2000     ,   2016.        ,  .  2017.      .

   100  ,  , 20%  [35 - Alexandra Schwartz, Rent the Runway.].      .   ,   ,    2018.  Burberry.

         : 14   7,   36    [36 - Alden Wicker, Fast Fashion Is Creating an Environmental Crisis, Newsweek, September 1, 2016, https://www.newsweek.com/2016/09/09/old-clothes-fashion-waste-crisis-494824.html (https://www.newsweek.com/2016/09/09/old-clothes-fashion-waste-crisis-494824.html).].       5,8      [37 - Kerr and Landry, Pulse of the Fashion Industry, 12.].   堖 2,1  .    ,     ,       .   USAID (United States Agency for International Development     )  2017.,   (East African Community, EAC) ,     , , , ,    ,       $274[38 - Overview of the Used Clothing Market in East Africa, United States Agency for International Development, July 2017.].       100.  [39 - Global Business of Secondhand Clothes Thrive in Africa, Africa News, April 26, 2018, http://www.africanews.com/2018/04/26/global-business-of-secondhand-clothes-thrive-in-africa-business-africa// (http://www.africanews.com/2018/04/26/global-business-of-secondhand-clothes-thrive-in-africa-business-africa//).].           -: ,           $1,5.            ,   2016.         .    2018.      , ,      40.    [40 - Abdi Latif Dahir and Yomi Kazeem, Trumps Trade War Includes Punishing Africans for Refusing Second-hand American Clothes, Quartz Africa, April 5, 2018, https://qz.com/africa/1245015/trump-trade-war-us-suspends-rwanda-agoa-eligibility-over-secondhand-clothes-ban/ (https://qz.com/africa/1245015/trump-trade-war-us-suspends-rwanda-agoa-eligibility-over-secondhand-clothes-ban/).].      ,   ;       .

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     ,   2015.     10,5 ,  [41 - Textiles: Material-Specific Data, epa.gov (https://www.epa.gov/). n.d.]. (       .)         9513  [42 - Press, Why the Fashion Industry Is Out of Control.];         [43 - Anat Keinan and Sandrine Crener, Stella McCartney, Harvard Business School, November 22, 2016.].     ,        .          Zara,        ,     .

     .  2011.   󻠖      ,      , Patagonia,       ,     ,   The NewYork Times        :  !    :     135 ,   ,        (   ),           ໅         . (         .)       ,          - .

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 2003.           -   .            ,           -.      ,     ,  .     ,      .

  ,          ,      .         :       ,          ( ),    ,          .      2008.            [48 - Hanna Rose Iverson, Started From the Bottom: Mary Katrantzou to Hannah Griffiths, Brighton Fashion Week, n.d., http://www.brightonfashionweek.com/blog/started-mary-k (http://www.brightonfashionweek.com/blog/started-mary-k).].              .           NEWGEN,             ,      ,    Browns  , Joyce    Colette  .

 2011.       British Fashion Award       .     :    2018.       - Yu Holdings[49 - Samantha Conti, Wendy Yu Invests in Mary Katrantzou, Eyes Growth in China, Womens Wear Daily, January 22, 2018.],      27-   ޠ  ,       . (               [50 - Nancy Chilton, Wendy Yu Endows Lead Curatorial Position at the Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, March 7, 2018.].)    $20   .  ,           ,  [51 - Conti, Wendy Yu Invests in Mary Katrantzou, Eyes Growth in China.].

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      ,       ,      ,        .      ,   ,        񻠖     .    ,   ,        ,        ,    .     ,    ,    PV:         ;         ,   ;  ,   ,   -.         ,        . Vogue.com:    [52 - Sarah Mower, Mary Katrantzou, Vogue.com, September 15, 2018, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou).]. The NewYork Times:     [53 - Vanessa Friedman, The Meghan Markle Non-Effect, The NewYork Times, September 18, 2018, https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/18/fashion/london-fashion-week-spring-2019-erdem-christopher-kane.html (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/18/fashion/london-fashion-week-spring-2019-erdem-christopher-kane.html).]. Womens Wear Daily: ,    ,                   [54 - Samantha Conti, The Collections: Mary Katrantzou, Womens Wear Daily, September 17, 2018.].

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   [55 - Stephen Yafa, Cotton: The Biography of a Revolutionary Fiber (NewYork: Penguin, 2005), 45.].      ,   ,       .  ,     ,        ,       ,     ,     1839.    [56 - Thomas Carlyle, The Works of Thomas Carlyle (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010), 182.].

  ,       . ,       ,    ࠖ  ,  ,       . (        .)  1771.            ( )     ;      .      :             ,        .

        ,         .    :        ;          [57 - Working Conditions for Children, Cromfordmills.org.uk (http://cromfordmills.org.uk/), n.d., https://www.cromfordmills.org.uk/sites/default/files/attachments/Source%202%20-%20Child%20Workers.pdf (https://www.cromfordmills.org.uk/sites/default/files/attachments/Source%202%20-%20Child%20Workers.pdf).].       ,     ,      .  1771.     ,     [58 - Yafa, Cotton, 55.].        ,  1770  1778.              [59 - Yafa, Cotton, 63.].  1790.         ,      [60 - Yafa, Cotton, 67.].

 1810.         ,    [61 - Pietra Rivoli, The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy: An Economist Examines the Markets, Power, and Politics of World Trade (Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2015), 96.].        ,  .         ,     ,   ,       [62 - Yafa, Cotton, 107.].      ,       ,    Boston Manufacturing Company,         ,  .

   1830- .        ,      ,        .    .     ,         ,        .   ,   ,        .        ,       ,    .       ,     .     .

,       ,    [63 - Daniel Soyer, Introduction: The Rise and Fall of the Garment Industry in NewYork City, in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in NewYork Citys Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (NewYork: Fordham University Press, 2005), 67.]:        ,         ,    ,   ,         -,    -.

   -?      ,          [64 - Hadassa Kosak, Tailors and Troublemakers: Jewish Militancy in the NewYork Garment Industry, 1889?1910, in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in NewYork Citys Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (NewYork: Fordham University Press, 2005), 118.];      ,         ;  , -    ,        ,  .       ,    蠖 ,        .   XIX.     -    ,       .

        ,     .       ---,   1850- .      ,        .     ,     ,    .        :         ,        .          .           :      .     ,       ,   .

     -      ,             [65 - Nancy L. Green, From Downtown Tenements to Midtown Lofts, in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in NewYork Citys Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (NewYork: Fordham University Press, 2005), 34.]. ,   ,           ,     㠖     .        ,        . -   : 1931.      ,  -  [66 - The Economic Impact of the Fashion Industry, Joint Economic Committee, United States Congress, February 6, 2015.].

       ,   1930- .     .   ,      -   [67 - Bill Blass, American Gals, The NewYorker, April 14, 1997, 74.].    :    ,   ,        ,    .       ;    ,   ,    ,       ,            [68 - On and Off the Avenue: Feminine Fashions, The NewYorker, September 20, 1941.].      ,    (Macys)    (Bergdorf Goodman)  -,   (Neiman Marcus)  ,    (Selfridges & Co)   (Harrods)  ,    (Galeries Lafayette)  -- (Le Bon Marche)  ,      ,    (Hattie Carnegie)      ,  42.

     .   -        ,         $79,50  $300  .  1941.  The NewYorker   -,        ,  -   .     :  -,   [69 - Nancy Hardin and Lois Long, Luxury, Inc., The NewYorker, March 31, 1934.].        Spectator Sports: ,    -,        $16,5.

     1939.,     -,  [70 - Blass, American Gals.].                     ,       ,  .    Altmans     ,   Bergdorfs     ,   Hattie Carnegie     .           .   (Bonwit Teller)        ,  .

             .   ,          .      .            .                  :          200. ,  66%    [71 - Soyer, Introduction, 1415.].     [72 - Bill Blass and Cathy Horyn, Bare Blass (NewYork: Harper-Collins, 2002), 1921.],  ,   , ,                Dior,   $79.

  1950- .            ,       : ,   [73 - Green, From Downtown Tenements to Midtown Lofts, 29.].  ,      .     :           -   17% ,    - [74 - Soyer, Introduction, 16.].         : 1947  1956.     20%[75 - Soyer, Introduction, 18.].

,      ,     .              ,    .                  .      ,     ,   ,        ,   -      .     :       ,    .

      ,       蠖  ,   .                      ,        .                  .  1973.   400. ,      1950-[76 - Marc Karimzadeh, Ralph Lauren Boosts N.Y. Manufacturing Initiative, Womens Wear Daily, October 23, 2013.].     -       ,    -,             ,   ,   ,   .  1965.  -   35 ,   1980-젖 430,      20. [77 - Soyer, Introduction, 20.].   70% ,    1980.,   [78 - Stephanie Vatz, Why America Stopped Making Its Own Clothes, KQED News, May 24, 2013.].

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     ,  ,          1980.[79 - Ronald Reagans Announcement for Presidential Candidacy, November 13, 1979, reaganlibrary.gov, https://www.reaganlibrary.gov/11-13-79 (https://www.reaganlibrary.gov/11-13-79).]   ,    ,    ,             .

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                .        ,      ,   .   1950-      -  ,   ,    , ,    ,       ,  [80 - Alexandra Harney, The China Price: The True Cost of Chinese Competitive Advantage (NewYork: Penguin Press, 2008), 20.].                       [81 - Rivoli, The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy, 160.].

 , ,   ,          ,   ,       [82 - Harney, The China Price, 21.].   ,      ,     .  1960.           10%[83 - Soyer, Introduction, 16.].   1970- .             .

  !  -     ,            .           ?[84 - Jerome Chazen, My Life at Liz Claiborne: How We Broke the Rules and Built the Largest Fashion Company in the World (Bloomington, IN: AuthorHouse, 2011), . 5257.]

 ,        ,     .           (Winklemans)        .  ,       .      ,      .

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 Liz Claiborne Inc.       蠖 ,     [85 - Chazen, My Life at Liz Claiborne, 67.].                ,  .    ,    Liz Claiborne    ,    ,      -                .    ,     ,            [86 - Harney, The China Price, 20.].

   ,          ,    .       蠖 , ,             ,          .              .

      [87 - Made in America Month Bill Goes to White House, Daily News Record, October 15, 1986.],          1986.    .              ,         .

 ,       ,    :  [88 - Janice H. Hammond and Maura G. Kelly, Quick Response in the Apparel Industry, Harvard Business School, 1990.].  QRM (Quick Response Manufacturing),   ,         1980- .              .   ,     ,      $25    -   ,     :     ,      ,        - .  ,    ,       ,           . ,     ,    .

   ,       -,     ,     .    ,    .   ,     ,   .    ,     ,  ,         . ,      , 蠖 ,   ,  ,  .     ,  , ,    ,  ,    .

      ,    Kurt Salmon Associates.   :  $100.   .    :        .

 1987.       (Congressional Office of Technology Assessment)     (       ),  ,   ,       .     ,  ,     ,     :



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    .     ,        1949.    [89 - Pankaj Ghemawat and Jos Luis Nueno, Zara: Fast Fashion, Harvard Business School, December 21, 2006, 7.].  1963.    Confecciones Goa,     ,    .        .  1975.            Zorba     -.   ,        ,     Zara.

        --,      ,    .   : 1989.       85     .    ,   .

   .        ,     : ,    .          ,       ,       . ,  , Zara       .             .     ,      ,  .

         ,  .     ,    ,   .   -  ,          .   .




  .


   .

   ,     (https://www.litres.ru/pages/biblio_book/?art=67800213)  .

      Visa, MasterCard, Maestro,    ,   ,     ,  PayPal, WebMoney, ., QIWI ,       .



notes








1


.  . -. . .




2


Inditexs Net Sales Rise 9 Percent to 25.34 Billion in Fiscal 2017, Inditex, March 14, 2018, https://www.inditex.com/article?articleId=552792 (https://www.inditex.com/article?articleId=552792).




3


Inditex Annual Report, 2017, 16, https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2017/assets/pdf/memoria_en.pdf (https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2017/assets/pdf/memoria_en.pdf).




4


Gabriella Pailla, Is Melanias Infamous Zara Jacket a Ripoff of Another Designer? The Cut, June 22, 2018, https://www.thecut.com/2018/06/melanias-zara-jacket-r13-ripoff.html (https://www.thecut.com/2018/06/melanias-zara-jacket-r13-ripoff.html).




5


Chase Peterson-Withorn, The Full List of Every American Billionaire 2016, Forbes, March 1, 2016, https://www.forbes.com/sites/chasewithorn/2016/01/the-full-list-of-every-american-billionaire-2016/ (https://www.forbes.com/sites/chasewithorn/2016/01/the-full-list-of-every-american-billionaire-2016/).




6


The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton, Environmental Justice Foundation, 2007, http://www.cottoncampaign.org/uploads/3/9/4/7/39474145/2007_ejf_deadlychemicalsincotton.pdf (http://www.cottoncampaign.org/uploads/3/9/4/7/39474145/2007_ejf_deadlychemicalsincotton.pdf).




7


  . . .




8


     Instagram / Facebook,   Meta Platforms Inc.,           . . .




9


Brick by Brick: The State of the Shopping Center, Nielson, May 17, 2013, https://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2013/brick-by-brick-the-state-of-the-shopping-center.html (https://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2013/brick-by-brick-the-state-of-the-shopping-center.html).




10


Alexandra Schwartz, Rent the Runway Wants to Lend You Your Look, The NewYorker, October 22, 2018, https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2018/10/22/rent-the-runway-wants-to-lend-you-your-look (https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2018/10/22/rent-the-runway-wants-to-lend-you-your-look).




11


Andrew Morgan, The True Cost, documentary (Life Is My Movie Entertainment, 2015).




12


John Kerr and John Landry, The Pulse of the Fashion Industry, Boston Consulting Group and Global Fashion Agenda, May 2017, 8.




13


Claire Press, Why the Fashion Industry Is Out of Control, Australian Financial Review, April 23, 2016, https://www.afr.com/lifestyle/fashion/why-the-fashion-industry-is-out-of-control-20160419-goa5ic (https://www.afr.com/lifestyle/fashion/why-the-fashion-industry-is-out-of-control-20160419-goa5ic).




14


,    , , 16 2016.




15


  (. sustainable development)   ,    ,                 . . .




16


Stephanie Vatz, Why America Stopped Making Its Own Clothes, KQED News, May 24, 2013, https://www.kqed.org/lowdown/7939/madeinamerica (https://www.kqed.org/lowdown/7939/madeinamerica).




17


Schwartz, Rent the Runway.




18


Stephanie Clifford, U.S. Textile Plants Return, With Floors Largely Empty of People, The NewYork Times, September 12, 2013, https://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/20/business/us-textile-factories-return.html (https://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/20/business/us-textile-factories-return.html).




19


Kate Abnett, Does Reshoring Fashion Manufacturing Make Sense? The Business of Fashion, March 9, 2016, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/can-fashion-manufacturing-come-home (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/can-fashion-manufacturing-come-home).




20


Global Fashion Statistics International Apparel, Fashion United, 2018.




21


Value of the U.S. Apparel Trade Worldwide from 2007 to 2017, Statista, n.d., https://www.statista.com/statistics/242290/value-of-the-us-apparel-trade-worldwide/ (https://www.statista.com/statistics/242290/value-of-the-us-apparel-trade-worldwide/).




22


    ,   , 4 2019.




23


Steve Denning, Why Are the US Olympic Uniforms Being Made in China? Forbes, July 23, 2012, http://www.forbes.com/sites/stevedenning/2012/07/23/why-are-the-us-olympic-uniforms-being-made-in-china (http://www.forbes.com/sites/stevedenning/2012/07/23/why-are-the-us-olympic-uniforms-being-made-in-china).




24


Diana Verde Nieto, What Does Made in America Luxury Really Look Like? Luxury Society, March 20, 2017, https://www.luxurysociety.com/en/articles/2017/what-does-made-america-luxury-really-look/ (https://www.luxurysociety.com/en/articles/2017/what-does-made-america-luxury-really-look/).




25


Luisa Kroll and Kerry Dolan, Meet the Members of the Three-Comma Club, Forbes, March 6, 2018, https://www.forbes.com/billionaires/#720a681d251c (https://www.forbes.com/billionaires/#720a681d251c).




26


Morgan, The True Cost.




27


Maxine Bdat and Michael Shank, There Is a Major Climate Issue Hiding in Your Closet: Fast Fashion, Fast Company, November 11, 2016, https://www.fastcompany.com/3065532/there-is-a-major-climate-issue-hiding-in-your-closet-fast-fashion (https://www.fastcompany.com/3065532/there-is-a-major-climate-issue-hiding-in-your-closet-fast-fashion).




28


SOCAP (Social Capital Markets)  ,       . . .




29


Julia Jacobo, How Sustainable Brands Are Turning Their Backs on Fast Fashion Trend, ABC News, September 13, 2016, https://abcnews.go.com/US/sustainable-brands-turning-backs-fast-fashion-trend/story?id=39590457 (https://abcnews.go.com/US/sustainable-brands-turning-backs-fast-fashion-trend/story?id=39590457).




30


Nathalie Remy, Eveline Speelman, and Steven Swartz, Style Thats Sustainable: A New Fast-Fashion Formula, McKinsey & Company, October 2016.




31


Kate Abnett, Three Years After Rana Plaza, Has Anything Changed? The Business of Fashion, April 19, 2016, https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/discussions/can-fashion-industry-become-sustainable/-years-on-from-rana-plaza-has-anything-changed-sustainability-safety-worker-welfare (https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/discussions/can-fashion-industry-become-sustainable/-years-on-from-rana-plaza-has-anything-changed-sustainability-safety-worker-welfare).




32


Marianna Kerppola etal., H&Ms Global Supply Chain Management Sustainability: Factories and Fast Fashion, University of Michigan, February 8, 2014.




33


The Impact of a Cotton T-Shirt, World Wildlife Fund, January 16, 2013, https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt (https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt).




34


Echo Huang, The Once Pristine Waters of Antarctica Now Contain Plastic Fibers, Quartz, June 7, 2018, https://qz.com/1299485/antarcticas-waters-now-contain-plastic-fibers/ (https://qz.com/1299485/antarcticas-waters-now-contain-plastic-fibers/).




35


Alexandra Schwartz, Rent the Runway.




36


Alden Wicker, Fast Fashion Is Creating an Environmental Crisis, Newsweek, September 1, 2016, https://www.newsweek.com/2016/09/09/old-clothes-fashion-waste-crisis-494824.html (https://www.newsweek.com/2016/09/09/old-clothes-fashion-waste-crisis-494824.html).




37


Kerr and Landry, Pulse of the Fashion Industry, 12.




38


Overview of the Used Clothing Market in East Africa, United States Agency for International Development, July 2017.




39


Global Business of Secondhand Clothes Thrive in Africa, Africa News, April 26, 2018, http://www.africanews.com/2018/04/26/global-business-of-secondhand-clothes-thrive-in-africa-business-africa// (http://www.africanews.com/2018/04/26/global-business-of-secondhand-clothes-thrive-in-africa-business-africa//).




40


Abdi Latif Dahir and Yomi Kazeem, Trumps Trade War Includes Punishing Africans for Refusing Second-hand American Clothes, Quartz Africa, April 5, 2018, https://qz.com/africa/1245015/trump-trade-war-us-suspends-rwanda-agoa-eligibility-over-secondhand-clothes-ban/ (https://qz.com/africa/1245015/trump-trade-war-us-suspends-rwanda-agoa-eligibility-over-secondhand-clothes-ban/).




41


Textiles: Material-Specific Data, epa.gov (https://www.epa.gov/). n.d.




42


Press, Why the Fashion Industry Is Out of Control.




43


Anat Keinan and Sandrine Crener, Stella McCartney, Harvard Business School, November 22, 2016.




44


Jessica Dickler, Black Friday Weekend: Record $52.4 Billion Spent, CNN Money, November 27, 2011, https://money.cnn.com/2011/27/pf/black_friday/index.htm (https://money.cnn.com/2011/27/pf/black_friday/index.htm).




45


    2021. . .




46


,    , , 13 2018.        .




47


,    , , 7 2018.        ,     ,    .




48


Hanna Rose Iverson, Started From the Bottom: Mary Katrantzou to Hannah Griffiths, Brighton Fashion Week, n.d., http://www.brightonfashionweek.com/blog/started-mary-k (http://www.brightonfashionweek.com/blog/started-mary-k).




49


Samantha Conti, Wendy Yu Invests in Mary Katrantzou, Eyes Growth in China, Womens Wear Daily, January 22, 2018.




50


Nancy Chilton, Wendy Yu Endows Lead Curatorial Position at the Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, March 7, 2018.




51


Conti, Wendy Yu Invests in Mary Katrantzou, Eyes Growth in China.




52


Sarah Mower, Mary Katrantzou, Vogue.com, September 15, 2018, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou).




53


Vanessa Friedman, The Meghan Markle Non-Effect, The NewYork Times, September 18, 2018, https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/18/fashion/london-fashion-week-spring-2019-erdem-christopher-kane.html (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/18/fashion/london-fashion-week-spring-2019-erdem-christopher-kane.html).




54


Samantha Conti, The Collections: Mary Katrantzou, Womens Wear Daily, September 17, 2018.




55


Stephen Yafa, Cotton: The Biography of a Revolutionary Fiber (NewYork: Penguin, 2005), 45.




56


Thomas Carlyle, The Works of Thomas Carlyle (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010), 182.




57


Working Conditions for Children, Cromfordmills.org.uk (http://cromfordmills.org.uk/), n.d., https://www.cromfordmills.org.uk/sites/default/files/attachments/Source%202%20-%20Child%20Workers.pdf (https://www.cromfordmills.org.uk/sites/default/files/attachments/Source%202%20-%20Child%20Workers.pdf).




58


Yafa, Cotton, 55.




59


Yafa, Cotton, 63.




60


Yafa, Cotton, 67.




61


Pietra Rivoli, The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy: An Economist Examines the Markets, Power, and Politics of World Trade (Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2015), 96.




62


Yafa, Cotton, 107.




63


Daniel Soyer, Introduction: The Rise and Fall of the Garment Industry in NewYork City, in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in NewYork Citys Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (NewYork: Fordham University Press, 2005), 67.




64


Hadassa Kosak, Tailors and Troublemakers: Jewish Militancy in the NewYork Garment Industry, 1889?1910, in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in NewYork Citys Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (NewYork: Fordham University Press, 2005), 118.




65


Nancy L. Green, From Downtown Tenements to Midtown Lofts, in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in NewYork Citys Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (NewYork: Fordham University Press, 2005), 34.




66


The Economic Impact of the Fashion Industry, Joint Economic Committee, United States Congress, February 6, 2015.




67


Bill Blass, American Gals, The NewYorker, April 14, 1997, 74.




68


On and Off the Avenue: Feminine Fashions, The NewYorker, September 20, 1941.




69


Nancy Hardin and Lois Long, Luxury, Inc., The NewYorker, March 31, 1934.




70


Blass, American Gals.




71


Soyer, Introduction, 1415.




72


Bill Blass and Cathy Horyn, Bare Blass (NewYork: Harper-Collins, 2002), 1921.




73


Green, From Downtown Tenements to Midtown Lofts, 29.




74


Soyer, Introduction, 16.




75


Soyer, Introduction, 18.




76


Marc Karimzadeh, Ralph Lauren Boosts N.Y. Manufacturing Initiative, Womens Wear Daily, October 23, 2013.




77


Soyer, Introduction, 20.




78


Stephanie Vatz, Why America Stopped Making Its Own Clothes, KQED News, May 24, 2013.




79


Ronald Reagans Announcement for Presidential Candidacy, November 13, 1979, reaganlibrary.gov, https://www.reaganlibrary.gov/11-13-79 (https://www.reaganlibrary.gov/11-13-79).




80


Alexandra Harney, The China Price: The True Cost of Chinese Competitive Advantage (NewYork: Penguin Press, 2008), 20.




81


Rivoli, The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy, 160.




82


Harney, The China Price, 21.




83


Soyer, Introduction, 16.




84


Jerome Chazen, My Life at Liz Claiborne: How We Broke the Rules and Built the Largest Fashion Company in the World (Bloomington, IN: AuthorHouse, 2011), . 5257.




85


Chazen, My Life at Liz Claiborne, 67.




86


Harney, The China Price, 20.




87


Made in America Month Bill Goes to White House, Daily News Record, October 15, 1986.




88


Janice H. Hammond and Maura G. Kelly, Quick Response in the Apparel Industry, Harvard Business School, 1990.




89


Pankaj Ghemawat and Jos Luis Nueno, Zara: Fast Fashion, Harvard Business School, December 21, 2006, 7.


