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          ,        .           :       600  ,      , ,        .   1850- ,       ,    -.

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  PDF A4   .





  ,  

 .  1850-    


  



Daniel James Cole and Nancy Deihl

THE HISTORY OF MODERN FASHION FROM 1850



 Text 2015 Daniel James Cole and Nancy Deihl

Daniel James Cole and Nancy Deihl have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988, to be identified as the Authors of this Work.

Translation  2019 EKSMO Publishing House

The original edition of this book was designed, produced and published in 2015 by Laurence King Publishing Ltd., London, under the title The History of Modern Fashion.



  .,    , 2021

   , 2021








   XXI   XIX      . ,         ,              ,    .           ,        :    ,   ,       .

,    1850- ,    .     ,    ,          .       1850-        .     ,            ,   .   ,         .             .  ,                  ,     .

  ,  ,        .         ,             .   ,   ,  ,       .   ( )         .    ,         ,       .     ,    ,      .

         ,     .             .           ,    ,          (        -).  ,     ,    , ,      ,       XIX   XX          .          , ,  , -  2000-     ,        XIX.  , ,  ,      .

      ,    ,      .  , ,  ,      ,        ,     .    ,    ,      .  ,      :   !    !



          ,   .  ,      .         ,  ,   2000-   ,     .         , ,    ,       .




 


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       ,    ,  FIT,    ,   .       FIT:  ,  ,  ,  -  . .  ,    FIT,       .    -      ;       ;  ,   ,   .

 ,      Center for Excellence in Teaching FIT    .    ,  IFFTI (International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes).        .  -            ,     ,   ,  ,    ,  .  ,  ,    .  ,   ,  ,        .                            .

 Gladys Marcus Library Special Collections & College Archives     .      ,   ,   ,     ,       .

  Laurence King Publishing       ,         .  ,  ,  ,    .    -  .      ,     .

         ,  ,  ,  ,  ,  .,  ,    .

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18501890- 

  








       (1885)      XIX.                ,       .



 18501890-      ,    .    XIX     ,      ,   ,    .         ,   .      . , ,    ,      .           .  ,   ,             .








ʠ1850-         .         .



      ,    ⠫   (1851),   - (1853)     (1855),    ,      .




  1850- 


  XVIII      ,     ,         ,       .   ,     - , - ,   .   ,   .     ,         .         .

  XIX         .      ,       (  ,    XVII).           .     ,  ,  ,   .           :   ()       ,      - .              , , ,  ,   .

 1837     ,      .         1901.       -- 10  1840         ,      .       ,             .          (  )      1840- .   ,     ,     .   ,      ,   .

   1840-         .       .             ,       .      ,             .   ,   ,   1830-   .     .     ,      .         ;       .

   ,   ,   .   , .    (  )     .       ,        .       .




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           .   ,         , , -             .               .   XIX     ,      .








     American Fashions 1847       XIX .



 1852   -      III.     .  ,    ,  ,   .    ,  ,  ,     ,      ,     .         ,      ,  ,   .  ,              ,           . -  1870    ,  1872    .    1848         .       1866     .

      .          .    (18611865)         ,      .                    .  , ,    ,      . ,         ,   ,         .




 

  ()  (18201887),   ,      1840-    1850- .         . . .       .      ,        ,           . ,   ,     ,   ,       .          蠫      [1 - Norman Lebrecht, Who Killed Classical Music?: Maestros, Managers, and Corporate Politics (New York: Citadel Press, 1997), p. 40.].       ,               1850- .  ,  ,           .      ,      .        -,    ,        1960-      XX.







   , , .1850



      XIX      18531854.   250                .     ,      .       ,       .







            ,           .                ,         .        ,  1874   ,    .      ,  , - ,    .         .        ,   ,   .         .        ,         ,      .       ,         ,  ,    .

-,     - ,          ,      .        .  1871            .        ,         (1877)      (1889).  (1865)   蠫 (1883)           .      .           (1862)         .

     ,     ,      .  ,      ,        .  ,   ,   ,            .      ,     ,       ,      .




  


       ,     .  ,  1876    ,        ,   .  ,         -,     - .    ,     ,    .          . ,     ,   . . ,    .      ,     ,         .        ,      .       (),     ,   ,    .     , Potter Palmer & Co,      Marshall Field & Co.         ,    .           -, ࠫ       .

        .        .        (18191867).    1846     .        1850-     . .  (18111875),        ,         .    1850- ,        Grasshopper    1858.          .        -.             .      .    , ,         ,      .    . .  1875     180000   .

          .  ,     ,     .      ,     ,       .       ,    .       .         .     ,  ,   ,     .       .       : Bon March  1852, Le Printemps 1865- La Samaritaine   .      (1883)           ,      ,     ,   .         .        Morgans  1860  -.    ,        1866,    ,    .   Holt Renfrew  1830-    ,   ,         1880- .          .      -        1848    - -.     1862    .       ,       .     .  Arnold Constable & Co  1877     ,       .    , Lord & Taylor Macys,            .         -  1876.     ,             90  ( 27),      ,       .

 1870-            .  1872          Montgomery Ward.         ,       ,   .       .      Montgomery Ward   10000   240 . ,     ,   ,   ,    Sears Roebuck     1893.          .      ,     -    .   ,     ,    ,       .




 


      ,        ,    .      .           , ,    ,     ,    .               ,   ,    . La Mode Illustre, Le Moniteur de la Mode, LArt et la Mode La Mode Pratique       .     The Queen, Ladies Newspaper Englishwomans Domestic Magazine.   Der Bazar         ,    La Moda Elegante,  .   Harpers Bazar   1867,    ,    .        ,   Godeys Ladys Book and Magazine, Petersons Magazine Demorests Monthly Magazine and Madame Demorests Mirror of Fashions.

          1850- .         Godeys,     Demorests.    300       Madame Demorests Magasins des Modes.     1863  , ,           .          .  1866     . ʠ1876    ,       .               .

              ,  .                   .  ,     ,       ,    ,   .   1869 Le Moniteur de la Mode ,            ,         .   ,    .




 


 III       .                    XIX.        ,    ,      ,        .        ,           ,  .          .             ,      .      ,  -,            .         ,     .        ,   ,    ,   .

   ,    ,   ,      .           ,  ,     (18571861). ,    ,     ,           ,    .        1853,      .           ,   ,    .     1856,     ,      .       .     ,     ,       .








           (1855)    ,       ,    .






  

 ,    (18371899)        III.   ,    ,         .     ,        .         II,       ,  ,   .   ,  - 1855    ,            III.        ,       ,        .    .     1863,     ,          ,      .      ,    .     .          ,      ,     .      ,    .        ,    .

      ,      . Ѡ1856     - ,     .       .                   .      ,         .  XXI     ,        .







   ,          (.1865).








       ,   ,   (     )     ,  .



    1863,       ,  .            ,    .          .        (    )       ,    .    1863   1871    ,         .              .    -     ,             .               1870- 1880- .     ,      -,     ,        .  ,     ,             .








    1886      (    )   ,     .








 ,   James Russell & Sons 1876, ,  ,      .    ,    .          ,   .



   ໠ ,     ,               .   (  )         .      ,   ,       . ,        .      ,            1874.      .        ,      ,     ,        .    ,     ,     .        .          . -           .            , ,    ,   .    Pears     ,      .    1880- ,    .       ,        ,   .    ,           .

       2 1886           .        :    ,      ,             . ,  ,    ,   ,  ,    .       ,     .       .        ,      ,         ,     - .        ,     ( )    .








             VII            (. 1888).




  , 1850- 1860- 


           .    ,    ,        ,    ,       .     : ,  , .        . -,    ,   .        .         .

   1850-         ,          . , ,       ,  1840- .            ,    ,        :                       ,          .          .        ,    ,           .       . -,  ,   ,  .        ,     .       .          .     .          ,    ,   ,      .       ( 1840- ),     ().    . ʠ1850-       .          .   ,  ,   -,       ,   .           ,   V,      .      .         ,  ,       ,        .

    ,       .             (    ),            .      ,        .     ,  .       .        -   jupons de crinoline  jupes de crin       .                    ,        .

   -    1855.       jupons de crinoline.      ,    ,    , -   -   .      ,  , ,          .    ,            ,         .          ,       .         ,    ,          ,        .     -.       ,     .           ,    .    ,        .      ,    ,     . ,  ,      ,     .       ,           .      ,    .     ,        .      ,       ,             .          ,    .           ,        .     ,      .       ,     ,    .      ,    .     , ,  ,             ,         .        ,       ,         .








   Grahams Paris Fashions      1850- .   XVIII        ,           .               .








   1857 Magasin desMademoiselles   ,        ,     (    ).     ,       .








   (.1855)    .         .     ,      .






 

    ,      .      ,     ,      ,   .                   . .  ,    1930- ,         :        .   1968    . -,       ,             ,   . -,  ,      ,          .   ,  ,     :    ,     ,  ⠫  .      2004   (Inventing Beauty)      ,    1850-     .     , 蠫    ?       ,    ,    .   ,        -.







 -       Douglas & Sherwood   Godeys Ladys Book, 1858.



 ,      .            .        ,          .   ,          , ,   ,   ,    ,      ,      .          -,       .      .     :                .   ,        .   ,      ,   ,      .

  1850-     ,                      .  ,    蠫 ,     1859,    ,        .             ,       .         ,     .          .           ,            .

  1860-       ,          .      :   ,       ,     .           .     1867            .  ,      -,     .      ,    ,         XVIII: -     .    ,     ,     ,     ,   .       ,     ,       .      .








                ,         .








   La Mode Illustre (1867)           ,      . ,       .








   1860-                 .



     ,           ,     .      ,   .          .      1863      .  ,       .       ,   ,     .      ,        .       ,       ,      .     ,    .

          ,  ,  蠫.                 .        .      ,   -  -.        sortie de bal.       ,     , ,    1860- .         ,    .








  XIX             , ,      .        , ,    .    1850   ,      .



   ,  .             .         ,        ,       .      ,        .     1850- ,        ,   .      ,       .         .         1840- ,    .          .          ,          .         ,      1860- .    ,       ,      .








           .     .








    1860-   ,         1870-.    ,  ,     .



     .       ,     ,     .           .           .     1850-    ,        .         .




  , 1870- 1880- 


   -        ,         .        .      ,  .  , ,      ,       ,     . ʠ1870   ,    .   ,       ,    .       :  ,  ,          .           :   ,   -    .        ,     .

 ,     ,  ,    .      -,      .      ,     , - 蠫 .        ,         .              ,          .      -    .         ,     ,   -  .

 :   ,     ,     .             .        (  ),     ,      .                 .                 .

   ,    1877,     .    -,     .         ,      .   ,    ,   ,       .        .        ,   .    .          V.    ,          .      .      ,      .         ,       .








ʠ1870 -   ,  ,  .    Alaska Down Bustles 1877    ,    .








     (  -)           .      1870- .



     ,  1878     .            .          .      ,      .      ,          ,       .    ,          ,   ,   .        ,     ,       ,         .      ,     .       .      ,    .     ,      ,   ,      .   ,   ,   .        ,    .        ,      . ,       XIX,     ,    .               .    ,    ,    .       .








      (1873)             .       ,   .








 ,      Petersons Magazine   1880,          .



       . ʠ1882      ,     .  1883 1884     ,  .         .    ,  ,      .        ,               .            .     .          .

 -   ,      .              .        .           ,          .       ,     .          ,      (   )   .         ,            ,   .  1888 1889     ,   The Daily Telegraph      :   ,   , ,  ,     ,        [2 - Dress Improvers Downed, The Daily Telegraph (November 2, 1888), p. 2.].   1880-       ,         .       .     1890- .








   Harpers Bazar  17  1877    .        .      ,       . ,    ,      ,         .








    La Mode Illustre 1887    ,     :      .



            ,   ,  , , .            . ,  ,   ,     ,     .      ,   .      ,    ,           .    ,       ,       . 𻠖  ,      ,       .      ;      .








 ,          ,     Harpers Bazar  25  1889.



        .        ,      .     .        .  ,       ,         ,       .  ,       ,     .    ,        .         .         .      ,     .           .




  


   (Charles Frederic Worth, 18251895)  .       ,    1846       Gagelin-Opigez et Cie.     ,     ,  ,     .           1851 ,  ,        1853.    , ,     .    1855     Gagelin-Opigez,  ,       .     ,    ,    ,    .       Gagelin-Opigez          , , ,      .          7  ---.  ,     ,         .       ,    ,    .

,       ,       .    1859  ,    ,  .            .   ,              .    ,           :



         ,             .      ,     (      )       ,      ;      .         [3 - Princess Pauline Metternich, My Years in Paris (London: Eveleigh Nash & Grayson, 1922), p. 58.].


  ,         .      ,         .    ,       .

,     (      ),   .  1863       .  ,           1865,   ,          [4 - Sara Elisabeth Hume, Charles Frederick Worth: A Study in the Relationship between the Parisian Fashion Industry and the Lyonnais Silk Industry 18581889. Unpublished Master of Arts thesis (SUNY Fashion Institute of Technology, 2003), p. 10.].

             ,   ,     .          .        ,            ,        .

  .        -.             .       ,        ,           .  1860-        ,       ,   .             ,    .  㻠   - ,  ,   ,          .








       (. 1880)              ,   .






,  

             XIX.   1865        ,  ,  .       .         ,   ,    .

,  ,   ,     .          -,  ,      .     1854      .    ,   .                 LIris.    ,  -  ,  ,    .            ,        .

            ,       .     ,      - ,   .     ,   ,      .           II .   ,     .   ,    ,     .            .  ,          .      ,  ,      .        ,      ,     .

      ,     ,           .   ,        ,    .    ,        .        .         -       ,              .        .     ,         .  -        1867 (       ),         .       ,        .         ,   .       , ,   :         ,     ,    ,    ,      [5 - Empress Elizabeth [sic], Her Tragic Death Last Summer  New Light on Her Life, The New York Times (March 18, 1899), p. 23.].

      ,    ,               XX ,  .    .       10  1898.







,  ,  ,           8  1867.



    ,      (18531924) - (18561926)     .   ,   -        ,       18891890.       .            ,  1868.     1885  1887.           .                          .       ,   ,    .

  (Emile Pingat, 18201901)        ,    .      ,      ,       ,   ,     .            .            ,     .      .         .

      ,      .   (Maison Flix)  1860- ,   , ,        .              .                  [6 - Many Women in Mourning  Closing of Mr. Felixs Dress-Making Establishment the Cause, The Pittsburgh Press (June 30, 1901), p. 15.].         ;     ,       .        .   (Madeleine Laferri?re, . 1825 . 1900),      ,    .        ,       ,    ,        .          ,        .   ,                    .         ,  .

  (House of Doucet)         .   ,    XIX,     ,     ,    .  III         .   (Jacques Doucet, 18531929)    1870- ,      ,    ,    .            .

            ,     (John Redfern, 18201895),  1860-    .                 ,         .   1860-    ,                 .

               ,         .            ,     ,     .

          ,         .           ,  ,    ,     (       ). Ƞ        ,      .

   ,      1878        .        (18531929)  1881,         . Ƞ,       . -        1884,       .         ,    ,           .      ,   Redfern and Sons (  )  , - -.          .

       ,     .   (Elizabeth Kekly, 18181907)    ,     1852    ,  .          ,       ,        . ,            .




    


     .        , ࠫ    .   ,  ? la disposition,   1850- 1860- ,      .            ,     .   ,    XVIII,      .   ,   ,      .  , ,     .        ,    .        .   ,    ,   . ʠ1880        ,   , ,     , ,  .         ,  1850       ,    ,      .     ,       .        ,    .  ,  ,     ,   .       .      ,           .








    ,   ,    1885,        .     Harpers Bazar  16  1885   .



           .        .        ,   ,          .   ,      蠫 ,             ,       ,      .  ,     -,   ,    ,         .  1856  ,   -,     .         -    .     ,    ,          . - ,          ,  ,    ,          - .     ,    .        ,         .  ,    ,    :           .    .    XX       .




 


  XIX      .  ,     ,       .         ,   .      ,        .       ,            ,   .       ,     , ,    . , ,         .   ,       ,     ,      ,       .      ,  ,         .            ,    ,       .      .        ,    ,         ⠫   .   ,     ,       .      ,        .








-           .    1865                 .  ,       .



         ,      .   ,       .  ,  ,  ,  ,      1861.         ,      .      ,   ,         .      Jays Mourning Warehouse.           .  Courtauld   ,      .            .

     600000           , ,  ,  ,   .             ,    1862.           (  , ,  1850).     1865  ,    ,      .     1867     Harpers Bazar    .




   


        ,       ,    ,   XVIII  .           ,     .         .                 .








-   ,             .  1864    La Mode Illustre.








   1870-      (       )            1780- .



   1850-     1880-   XVIII          .     ,           XVIII   .      ,     ,       .        ,    ,       XVIII.   ,     1870- ,         ,    1780.     1841,        ,       1870.           .            .        ,     XVIII.    1780- ,   ,  .

    XVIII    ,       - .  1850-    1860-     ,  ,      .       .     :  ,   ,    .      .        ? la        XVI.








    1876      .     ,    .     ,         .



            1800- .        ,        .        ,  ,  .  ,       ,    (       ).      ,         .  ,   ,    ,         .     .    ,  ,   ,      .    ,  - 1860,  .        .    (1885)      ,         .

       .    ,     (,       ),        .       ,   :   ,  ,    ,        .       .        .     ,         ,       .     ,     ,   .          ,   ,   .            1875.

,      ,       ,     .                     1850- .            ,      ,   .         - .        (, -)   (, -),      ,      ,     - . -           ,        .             ,  vestire alla lombarda     ,   ,   ,     .








     ,  .18651868.    ,                .








    LIllustrateur des Dames (. 1867)     .       ,     .             .








   (.1850)        .            .






    


      , ,    .       ,         .  1850  ,    ,     ,          ,    ,       .     .        The Lily,      .         ,          ,  .          .            ,       .   ,   ,     .  1859    ,  ,   , ,  ,   -     ,   ,           .

 1870          ,      ,        ,       ,     .   ,   1874,          ,       ,    ,     蠫     .       ,      ⠫ ,            .     .       ,      .

 ,     ,  .    ,   1884,        ,       (Gustave Jaeger).         ,         ,   .     .  ,       ,    ,   ,   .               -   .  Jaeger Company         (   ),        1884.             ,      .  Jaeger            ,  ,    ,             .             ,         .



 () ,      ,   1850-    -.  ,      ,                . ,       ,         ,    ,   .             .  ,                 .      ,  ,     .          ,    ,    .      ,       .          (       )           .                ,    .           .          ,  ,          .     ,     ,             .








      (. 1882)         ,     .    ,     ,      .








   ,    1882,      ,          .








      (1866)         .                XVIII.



      Liberty of London,  1875   .            . ʠ1880-           ,    ,  ,   , ,         .       1884          ,      .




  


        .  ,   ,      蠫   . ,   ,        ,         ,   1860     .          .      .        ,         .         . ʠ1860- ,           ,                 ,       .

        ,   .  XIX    ,            ,        .              ,   ,       (     ).         ,    ,       .     ,    ,        .   ,       ,     ,      .   ,          Creed,   1710.  1850  ,  ,       ,        .   1870-          . ,   ,    . ,  ,   .

         ,             ,        .   ,   ,    ,   ,         .     ,  ,   .              .        .    ,    ,  ,    .  ,   ,      ,    ,       ,   .        ,          ,      .  1870-              ,       .             .








         Der Bazar  26 1871     ,      .






 


        ,      .                           .     ,     .              .            ,        ,   , -      .       ,   ,   .   1850-           ,          .

        ,   , ,          .          .      ,        .                   .  1860-   ,         .








 ,       - 18641865 -     Genio C. Scott.               ,           .








 ,   , 18771878.  ,     ,           .



 ,           ,      ,     .        .          ,          ,        ,        .      ,         .  ,     ,       .    : -,       ;  , -, - ( ), -    ,   .  ,   ,    .     ,     ,     .       ,        : , -       -.      ,  1870-       .

      .  1850-            .                .   ,     .  (,     ),    ,           .       ,     ,        ,         .

  1850-       ,        .   ,    . Ѡ1861  1890    ,     .                  .

    ,        .            ,  1890        .   ,       .       - ,       .        .      ,      .       .     ,     ,   ,         .








  1887         ,               .








  1877  Gentlemans Magazine of Fashion          XIX.  :    ,          .








     Gentlemans Magazine of Fashion   1876                .       ,    ,   .



        .                   ,     ,       .               .          .

 ,       ,       ,   .          .         .   1869 Le Moniteur de la Mode        ,  ,        .   1860     .   VII,       ,   ,  .       -.                     .    ,   ,    .     ,  1880-      ,    . ,   , -  tuxedo (),     -   -,           ,    ,   .     .

               .    ,    XVIII.          ,       .      ,    ,          ,     ,   .  1854  ,   ,         ,       .           ,          ,  ,    .  1869,    ,   ,  ,    ,    ,         .








     (. 18651870)   ,    ,        .      .        .



,    XIX,     .   ,   ,     .                : , ,     .        (paletots)    ,   ,   ,      .  1856      (, )       .          ,       1880- .

     .      ,       : ,     .            .       ,   1  (2,5).          ,           .    .      .        .     ,      .     ,  ,  .








 -        (  Illustrated London News, 1887).           ,       .                 .



 1850-         ,   .       ,   -  Brook Brothers,  1818,     1845-. ʠ1880-        .     ,   ,       .  ,  -  Brill Bros.,  ,       ,   ,  ,    .   , -,    ,       ,   .    ,    .

       ,   1848     . ,    -   ,   .  ,   ,    -,       .  1853    , -,     .      ,   ,  1873    ,    ,      .        .      Levis,        ,   .       ,   Levi Strauss & Co      .  501XX      1890.     .          .




 


    ,               .        ,           .       ,       .                      .      ,        .








  1852       LIris        1840- .     ,    . -       .








    Le Conseiller des Dames et des Demoiselles   1852  ,     .           ,   .          .         .








,  ,    1879.     .         .








        ,  ,    ,    Miles Studios 1883.           .



  ,     .            ,    .     ,      .   ,  ,     ,     .         .  ,      ,        ,     , .          ,        .         .         ,       .    -    .                .          ;        .

       ,   .              ,    . Ѡ1850-  1870-     ,      ,    .        .     ,         ,       .   ,   1870     ,      .         .    ,  -    . -    .    ,     ,       .           .

          .  ,        .         .        ,        .      ,     ,       .

          .     ,    .     ,   ,     ,        .      .          .     ,     ,        .        ,         ,    - .            ,    .          ,  ,   .          .    -        .       .     ,     .             .








  1881  Revue de la Mode/ Gazette de la Famille      ,      .



      .        .          ,    ,    ,   .       ,    ,   .       .




  


     ,   . -,    ,    -,  ,  .        ,      .           ,      ,       ,  ,          .              ,            .          ,          .         .              1878.  -             .   ,          ,       ,       ,   ,  - .  ,         ,        .   -   -    .              [7 - Exhibition signage, Reveal or Conceal?/ Dvoiler ou Dissimuler? (Montreal: McCord Museum/Musee McCord, February 22, 2008January 18, 2009). See also www.musee-mccord.qc.ca/expositions/expositionsXSL.php?lang=1&expoId=47&currSectionId=2].

      . ,    IV,           1850- 1860- .     .                . ,          ,  1883.           .    -  (),    Ѹ,       .        , ,    ,    ,           .




 1890- 


         ,   ,      ,   .         .                    . ,   ,     .     ,   .  ,           .  ,     ,     1889.        ,    .        ,      .     ,           .      .








  -   1888        ,              .






 2

1890- 

  








  蠫 (1899)    ,    ,          .   ,          .



            ,   .       XIX          .              .       ,   .   ,       ,         ,     .              ,      ,     ( )   .        .          ,         .         ,   :      .      ,     ,   .








        Ӡ (. 1899) -      ,      .




- 


   ,       ,  ,      .    ,  1870,    ,           .        ,   ,         ,      .            .   ,  ,           (    1898)     .

,      ,      ,       .       ,          , ,         , ,     .

 ,   ,             .  ,      ,       ,     .           .    ,    :  ,  ,    .             ,         .          (How the Other Half Lives),  1890,         -,      ,    ,          .







       (     1910).     ,    Ѹ,  ,    -.     ,       ,        .    ,  Le Figaro 1886,               .   1890-      ,   ,  ,    ,    ,    .








   (1897)    Vere Goold                     ,     1890- .



   -   .   ,       ,        .    -             .   art nouveau ( )    1880- ,    ,  1895      LArt Nouveau.              .   ( )      .          ,      ,    .         ,      -.                : ,   .            ,   , ,         .      Jugendstil    Jugend,  1896,     Arte Nuovo,  La Stile Liberty,     Liberty of London.  ,    ,  ,   -         .








 , 1893.








 , . 1890.






  

      (18611922)        .    ,     .     ,          ,    ,  .         ,        ,    .     .    ,      ,    .        ,      .

  (18611931)       .      ,   ,  .       1880- ,            .     ,    .  1890-      -, - ,   .      ,      .          ,    ,  ,  .   ,  -     [8 - Elizabeth Ann Coleman, The Opulent Era: Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat (New York and London: Brooklyn Museum with Thames & Hudson, 1989), p. 29.].        ,     .       .  -        ,    蠫 .       ,      ,    .          ,      .  1918      .


    ,             1897,     ,   ,  ,     ,    .       ,          ,     .        ,     ,   ,  ,     -,       .

       .      II  1894.        ,      ,         .    .  ,   ,    ,        . ,  ,        ,      蠫  -.     ,           蠫.            .   ,  ,        .

                ,   ,  ,    .                      .          .        .            .    ,   ,     .     ,         .       蠫             .

    -        ,          .         .        ,  ,         -  ,  ,     ⠫- 蠫 .           .        ,       .        ,           .     -  .    ,       ,    .








          (,    ).         ,       .








-         ,     ,  ,      -.



  ,      蠫  ,     .          ,          ,     .     ,            (18721898).       ,  . Ѡ1894  1897        (The Yellow Book),       ,    ,    .         -.         ,      .     ,       .




  


          ,  ,   .  ,    ,  ,        ,    .            ,          .         ,        ,       ,         ,    .       ,         .     ,           .           .








 ,     ,     ,    .       ,  ,       1890.








    1891,      La Moda Cubana,    ,        .



   1890-           1880- ,      ,     .     ,     ,         ,    ,        .    1880- ,      .        . ,     ,      .               ,    .   ,                  ,       .

          ,            .       ,    ,      ,     .             ,     .      ,        .    ,    ,       ,       .








    (  )    The Standard Designer 1896.        .








    Le Moniteur de la Mode 1893             .



   ,  1893   (  ),   1830- ,   .      -,      .         ,           .      ,       .        ,    ,       .               .      ,     ,        ,     .             .

     .     ,        V- .              .          ,   ,   ,    .       .








     ,     1899,        ,       -.



          ,    ,   ,  ,     .         ,       .   ,      ,   ,   .           ,          .  仠    1860-         .  ,          ,       ,          .

 1897 1898        .              .   ,     .   ,              .       ,     ,       .       .      ,       .    ,    ,     .

  ,       ,   ,   .      ,   ,           .    ,       .               .          ;     ,     .




 


             .            .               ,   ,           .         ,           .        ,    -,    .     ,      ,     .       .     ,         .








 ,     ,                   .






   


       ,          .    ,       .        ,    .  ,               .   ,  ,           .      ,      .           ,      .








          ,       ,      .         ,          .








            ,        La Mode Pratique (1892).       .








    ,      ,  ,   .     Delineator (1897)    ,    .        1910- .








    ,     . Journal des Demoiselles et Petit Courrier des Dames Runis         1891.



        ,    ,  1880- .     .       ,    ,   1780- ,      .       ,    .    ,     ,    ,        . ,     ,  ,       .              .          .       ,              .




 


        ,    .  ,      ,   ,  ,    ,        .       .      ,     .      ,         ,   .        .            .

       .        ,  ,   ,      .      ,     .              .     -,     ,           .       ,    -     Harpers Bazar 1894.  1897   Jordan Marsh      .               ,       , 蠫     .   ,   ,    1896,    .    ,  ,   ,       ,         [9 - Standard Designer (November 1896), p. 78.].        ,    ,   . ʠ1890  Butterick      ,       .








            .     -,    ,    ,      .









           ,    ,           ,       .            .          ,      .         ,      , , ,   .        ,    .          ,    ,   ,  , ,     .         ,  ,      .      XIX         1895,      .      ,        .

  ,    ;    , ,        .     ,      ,    .      ,    ,  (    )  ,        .              .      ,      .    ,       .      -,      .

    1895      .                    , -     , ,      ,   .     , -       ,    ,     -.      1897[10 - Lourdes Font, International couture: The opportunities and challenges of expansion, 18801920, Business History 54:1 (2012), p. 31.].

      .         ,      -   .  1896,    ,      , A.Wall?s & Cie.

         .          ,         .       ,       -,  , 1895.    -    ,       [11 - Coleman, p. 146.].   ,            XVIII.      ,          ,        XVIII.                   .













         -,  - ,            (   18981900)     .     ,   ,   .



  (Paquin)  1891   ,       .            (18691936).        .           1897.

       (Laferi?re)  (Flix).         - .             (Gustave Beer,  1890  1929),          ,   (Callot Soeurs).     1895     :   ,   ,      -.

 1890     (Redfern and Sons)    ,            .      ,         ,                ,   ,         .               ,      . ,     ,           ,   .       ,        ,     .     -      . Ӡ         The Queen,      .








        .            ( 1895)  ,  ,    ,  , ,    .    .








       ( 1893)     -        ,        .






 

  (18441923) , ,    XIX.     1860-  ⠫     ,       .     18701880- .        , ,    .              ,  ,    .       ,      ,  .               ,  .

,        ,  ,     .         ,         ,      .    .      1890-         ,     ,   ,    .       .         .      ,          , ,  [12 - Sandra Barwick, A Century of Style (London: George Allen & Unwin, 1984), p. 53.].    ,         ,          .     ,      .

     ,       .  1870-     ,      .        .      ,           .         .           ,    ,        .       ,    .      ,     ,        .              ,     .           ,       .      .       ,          ,   .

     .            ,        ,   -.       :  ,        .     ,      .    ,             - -  .







     1891.   .



 1890-     ,           ,  (18631935).     ,  1884      ,   1890    .        ,              .      (       )         .  ,   ,      .  1894        (Maison Lucile)   -,          ,   The Queen.




   


     1890- .              .      ,   .  ,     ,  1890-      .      Jaeger,    Liberty of London     .        .

   ,     ,                 .               ,       1893.      ,         .        .       . ʠ1890-      ,   -     ,         ,     .








     ,            1894   .     ,   -.








    New York Fashion (.1895)       .                       .








    (. 1892).   , ,  ,       .  ,   , ,      .      .




 


,    ,        ,         .      ,                .     ,      XIX:  ,     .         :   ,         .             ,        .    ,     ,    .                      .     ,     . ʠ1890-       (   ).   ,       ,         .    ,       ,      .     ,   .

      ,     蠫.         .       ,         .    Tielocken  Burberry  1895,           (18991902),           .  ,      ,  ,     ,     ,    .               .         .      ,       .               .              .








    ,      New York Fashions   1896,        .








         ,      New York Fashions.








   -  Edward Hart Mammoth Tailoring Establishment          1898.






,  

  (18411910),    ,    1901     VII.    XIX  ,   ,       .           .     ,   .         ,       .    1863          .         1861  , ,   ,   ,   ,      .

   ,      ,     ,        ,     .    ,     .              ,           .           .  1860-     ,    .      1889       ,        ,         .     (,   ,   )     ,   :  ,      ,       .        ,       ,       .    ,  ,      ,           ,   .







,   1891.



  ,                ,     .                   .                       .

     ,     ,      ,       .          .  ,    ,       .    ,    .             .      ,    ,    .




 


         .         ,     ,      .              ,      .     -  ,        .

        .             ,      .           ,    .           .        ,      .       ,         .            ,    ,   .








     ,         .     Jordan Marsh  / 1897.








 ,    ,       .          .













      1891  Journal des Demoiselles.               .



      .            ,   . ,            .         .       ,    ,    .                      .      ,             . -   .

      .         .             ,           .            ,    -,     .




  


,      ,   XIX   ,    .              ,   .         ,   ,   .            .         ,   -  -. ,  ,     ,  ,       .    ,  (    1862),        (   V)    1880- .   (    II)         .       .




  ( )

 . [sic]   ,         !      ,       ,          .   ,    XX          .   .      ,   ,      ,    . ,       !

   . ,         Strength  1927.           .

  (18671925)  ,   .    ,      ,     ,   .         .    ,      1889.       -,         1893  .

          .       ,       .   ,      .            ,           .         ,      ,    .

                   ,       .      ,  ,      XIX.        ,   .    , 1890-   ,                   ,  .         ,     .      :       ,          .







  (. 1900).



 1890-       .          -  Β.       ,       ,     .         ,      ,         ,        . -        ,       , 400     -.




   


  1900   ,         .      ,        ,     蠫         .    ,   ,      ,     .  1899      1900.             ,  .          .    ,     ,    ,         .         .








   New York World 29 1897  ,       .






 3

1900- 

 








 .. (1907)     ,        .



     ,     .    ,     ,   ,    1900      ,   .    1903 ,      .   ,      1889,  1900       .      ,     ,       .

           .           ,       .       XIX    .          .








                     1904.






- 


           ,  ,     ,   -     .        ,       .       ,  -, , ,  .    ,   ,    .

            .  -   ,         ,        (ILGWU),  1900.    1901     ,        .        ,    .      ,      ,    .          .  - 1909 20000,  ,  ,       .

      .     1898         .  1900      .  , ,        - 1901.   1903         . ,     ,           ,   - .    ,     .    ,           .         .     ,   ,    ,       .         - .

         -  1898,             .   , -,    -  .        ,       .








        (1901)          .








            -.          ,   .









 ,  ,      ,              ,    .  1907      ,         .          ,   .

      -,         .        -     蠫  .          .         .  ,     -,    .

     ,     . ,     ,  ,    .     , ,       - 1904,         .      ,     . Ӡ     ,       .           ,      ,    -,      .

      ,    ,  ,  ,   - ,   ,     XIX.    -   ,    ,           - .                .              ,    蠫  .         1907.    ,   .

 ,       II,     ,      .       1905,          .         ,     ,        .

     .         1905,  ,    .           1904.           ,    ,    .         ,            ,      .        ,   ,   ,   Victor Victrola 1906.

  ,   ,            .        (. 18671917).      ,  ,     ,   ,        .           .

,    1890- ,      .      (1902) 蠫    .  (1903)       . ʠ1905   .  1906        (70-) ,      .       ,   ,       ,   .

 1900-       II        .   1903          .        ,       ,    .     ,         ,   ,   1909.     .              .








   - 1900   .








    (1908),   ,            .      .




  


        ,       VII.  ,  ,     ,          XX.       ,            ,     1902.        , ,    ,    .  ,   ,    1906.         .      ,          .

      .       (18741944)       .       .       ,           .

     ,          .         ,        , ,      ,    蠫 .     (18851971)           ,        .       -,  .      ,          .        ,               .

 ,    ,     ,     .           (18791959).                 ,      .          .       .         ,     .

 ,    ,       ,           .     ,    ,       .     ,      .        .      ,         .        ,    .  ,  ,   (  )     (  ,   ,   ),           .  ,    ,           ,    [13 - Frederic Lees, The Evolution of Paris Fashions: An Inquiry, The Pall Mall Magazine, vol. XXVII (May-August 1902), p. 116.].      ,            ,              .








          (. 1901).       .             .








    Theatre      .








 ,    ,   1902.






 

    (18841980)      ,       .      ,       ,       -,    .           .           .        ,          ,      .     ,         .         ,   ,  1906  .            ,       ,     .            1919    (Alice Blue Gown).                  .  ,        ,        .





 


     ,   .             New York Herald,        7  1900. Harpers Bazar     ,      Ladies Home Journal          . Les Parisiennes,  American Fashion Co. -,         ,    .  1909          Vogue      .     ,           . Harpers Bazar      1890- .         Les Modes,         .           ,      .








              Les Modes 1902,       .






   1900


      .   ,       ,    .    ,   ,   ,        .          .               .        .        ,       -.

           ,   .          .           ,     .


















  Bou Soeurs, Ernest Raudnitz L. Perdoux et Cie   ,        1900.








       Fa?on Tailleur (.1902).    ,     XVIII.








              .






  


  1901  Pictorial Review ,             .        ,          .         ,         .      .       ,        .    ,       .

              ,           ,    .     ,         ,      ,       1890- .    , ,  ,   , ,      .  ,   ,    .  ,   ,       ,  , , ,     .      .

        ,     .    ,     ,         .       .    ,    1890- ,           ,    -.   ,        ,       .      ,       .













           .          La Mode Illustre.      Le Bon Ton.  1903.



     ,   -          .     ,    V-  1890- .     .               .    ,    ,        .     . ,         ,           ,      .       ,       .               ,      XVIII.            ,        .








        1901.        ,      .



        .    ,     1900,        .          ,       .        1905   ,   .          ( )        .     1908.

      ,          ,    ,    .        XIX.        ,    .    ,  ,        ,         .       .          .




   


     1890-     S- 1900.        ( )    , -    ,    .          ,        .            .  S-      .         , ࠫ     ,         .      ,    ,     ,    .     -,      .   .        ,      .  1907  DeBevoise      ,   -.             .   -     ,     .   ,     ,    ,    .     ,     .








    Royal Worcester and Bon-Ton Corsets     S- ,      1900.




   -


 1904          -. -        (Lane Bryant).            .    ,    ,   Lane Bryant      .

    . -  Berthe May Company ,              .          .




   


           . ,  ,          .       .         .  1903   La Mode Illustre             .   ,    ,   -    .     -,         -    ,       . -        .       ,    1910- .

        .   XVIII    ,       ,      .        ,   ,        ,  . ,   ,   ,       .         .               ,   .    ,      ,        .








 1907  Harpers Bazar  ,     .






  


            .       , ,  - ,  1892.       ,   ,       .          1900,        .          ,       .      .   , , , , ,   ,   .     ,  , ,   .            .

     .      ,  .     Revillon Fr?res        Hudson Bay Company (  )          . Holt Renfrew    ,  1900       ,     .








  1908     E. & A. Mele          .








       ,              (Les Modes,  1906).









    ,         .       ,            XVI.    (   )     ,              .         ,       .           ,   ,    ,      .         .                  Pall Mall 1902.                ,  , , ,  .








      (. 1902)     ,     -.      ,          .








      Gustave Beer       ,       (Beaux Arts).



   , ,   ,         1880- 1890- ,    .      .     ,      ,          .        1902[14 - Font, p. 31.].

  XX      .         ,   ,  ,              .                   .           .

Redfern Ltd.,      ,         .  ,     ,    .      .     ,      ,    ,        .             .    ,   ,  ,      Redfern Ltd. 1902.     ,        XVIII.      ,   Romney frocks   .            .              .

         . ,      ,    ,         .    ,       .    , ,   .  ,          ,          ,    ,  .

         ,  New York Times Les Modes.   ,            ,      ,     .    Pall Mall ,        ,      .      ,     ,  -.

           ,   .        ,       ,        .    1900-            ,       .     ,     1890-     .








  1908         .








    ,   ,            Les Modes   1901.








   Callot Soeurs,   Les Modes   1909,   ,      .



 Ѹ  (Callot Soeurs)   ,    .    ,            .     -,    .    (.18701927)    ,       .

       .       ,              ,        ,  .          ,  .    -  ,       ,  ,    ,    .      ,    [15 - Robert Forrest Wilson, The House of Drecoll, Vogue (November 15, 1925), p. 34.].       Drecoll    .   ,   .

 (Lucile)         1900.   ,    ,       .    ,   ,  ,  ,         (Maison Lucile).           .  1905       Lucile Ltd.     ,      :   .     ,           .       ,         ,  廠      - .       ,     ,        1907    .    ,  -   ,   . ,       ,         . ,   ,   ,       .

  Liberty of London        ,            .           .

  (Paul Poiret, 18791944)   ,       .     ,      .    ,     ,     ,    ,       .   ,       ,         ,  .

  ,     1903.               ,    ,    .     1908   -   .             .        (Les Robes de Paul Poiret)     .  ,                         ,    -.








    Liberty of London   ..        (Dress and Decoration) 1905.








        .






  (WIENER WERKST?TTE)

  ,             (Wiener Werkst?tte)     .     1903    .       ,  ,              .  蠫 ,                  .   , , ,   , ,   ,        ,    ,  -.

     ,          ,    ,   .     ,   ,      ,        ,   . ,          .                .      ,          ,     .      1932.









          XVIII,     ,      1908   .          .








              .



    ,     ,    S-.      (   )      .

     ,    ,  , ,  ,     ,      ,      .      :



   XVIII     ,    ,   ,     .   , ,  -, -  ,   , ,    ,      .        ; , , , -    [16 - Paul Poiret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret, transl. by Stephen Haden Guest (Philadelphia & London: J.B. Lippincott Company, 1931), p. 93.].


      ,    .             .         ,  1909   ,  -     ,       -,10.     ,   ,    -,   (Gowning-street).

    ,       (Mario Fortuni y Madrazo, 18711949)        .     ,  ,             .    ,      .

        ,     .        1906.          ,         ,  .

     ,      .      ,    .     ,    ,        .     ,      .

 ,        ,    .       ,     ,   ,   .    ,    ,        .        .   -.        ,   ,   ,           .         .      ,      ,     . -      ,   ,         ,      .             .








         ,         .








           ,           -,     1909  Les Modes.



    (Madeleine Vionnet, 18761975)       1890- ,        .     1901,      - (Maison Beckoff-David),      Ѹ .     ,      ,              .      1907.           ,       ,  .           ,         .              .

  (Jeanne Lanvin, 18671946)     1890      ,        ,      .             -.         ,   -      .  1909     ,              .

             ,    Maison Rouff, Martial et Armand, Maison Raudnitz Maison Perdoux.   ,        : Bou Soeurs, Maison Chruit Georges Doeuillet.   ,       (J.Green Weeks)         [17 - Font, pp. 3536.].








  -, -, 1905           .






   


    ,       .           ,    ,       .      ,        . ,            ;       [18 - Ella Adelia Fletcher, The Woman Beautiful: A Practical Treatise on the Development and Preservation of Womans Health and Beauty, and the Principles of Taste in Dress (New York: Brentanos, 1901), p. 410.].       ,  ,      .      .          .          .  ,     ,      .      ,      ,  .      1907.




 


 1900     ,   1910        .      ,      1908        .           ,      .       ,   .             .      ,       .        .      ,            .  ,          .








          Der Tag einer Dame   .



           ,   .          ,     .  ,              .       .       ,      .             ,    .            ,   .         -,      ,   .          ,        .   ,   .




 


         .        .      (   XIX)       ,         .             .    (   )      .         .    ,    ,      ,        .    ,          .

 ,   ,     ,     . ,   ,   ,     ,           .         :    ,  ,     .    V-       .       ,    .           . ,     ,   ,       .      ,         .          ,         .













Chicago Monarch Company          1900.








    (Wild Bunch),  1900  .            ,   -  .






   ARROW

   Arrow     (18741951)   Cluett, Peabody and Co.,   Arrow.     ,       ,     ,  The Saturday Evening Post.      ,          .    Arrow    1907,    Arrow   Arrow,    .    Arrow      ,        ,      ,    .    -.    Arrow     :    ,        .       .       -   ,    Arrow               .









     Arrow  .



        .          ,       . -   ,      .

 ,   ,      ,          . -            ,  .          ,             . ,     ,           .    ,      ,     (   ).








   1908       --    .








  John Wanamaker (-)  / 19061907    ,             .








     (   )       Delineator   1903.



        ,     .      ,     .      , ,   ,   ,      .               .




 


  ,        .      ,        .    ,          .          .                 .           ,    ,     ,      .

              ,          .         ,   .       .               .         .      ,   ,   .         .      ,        .     ,      ,   .

      .         ,    ,           .         ,   ,       .           :   ,     .

     .   ,     ,          .                  .      ,          .




 


         .      ,  ,        .      ,       .            .  S-     .   1908            ,    .     :         S     ,    .

3  1909 New York Times,    ,      .         ,  , ,     .           ,         :     ,          .      ,     .    ,   -       . -,          -.    ,    1909,       .








             .     .   1908    ,    ,    ,    S-,         .






 4

1910- 

 ,   








       (19111912)      .     ,        :          .



  1910 1920      .        ,        1920- .           ,      .   ,                .         ,             XVIII.            .          ,        .       .          .                  .








   1911    Femina              ,      .








                .   ,   1914,   ,  Votes for Women ( ).








        1917,      .






- 


 1912    ,       ,     1500 .        ,         28  1914.       -       .    (-,    ,   )    (,  ).           ,    .         .

     ,   ,   ,      .     1917,         .               .  1917         ,      .       ,      XX.







         .              .           ,      .          ,            ,  ,     .    1913   -   .    291    ,     Β.

,     ,     ,    ,   .    ,     ,   ,    .    ,      .  ,       ,   ,       .      1914          .         ,      .   ,   (  ),      TuTa.




 

       .       1881    ,      .             ,       .              .       (  )    ,       .         .

      ,     .         ,  .       ,        .  ,        .        :         ,    -.     ,          ,             .

     ,     ,          .        ,        ,     ,     .  1930      , ,  ,    ,    1957.     ,         , ,  ,     ,        .

,       .  ,      ,    ( Dior)   ( Yves Saint Laurent).    ,     ,       .







       .



   -      ,     蠫,   .           .         .            1911.       (   )  - 1910.         1849. -          ,         .   ,   ,  The Saint Louis Blues    Alexanders Ragtime Band  ,         .

       .       ,          .    ,    (  ),    .         ,     .    (1913)   ,   ,       ,      ,       .

      ,      ,  -.       . . .   .       ,    蠫  . Keystone Film Company            .     ,           .




  


    VII 6  1910        .   1910          ,           .   The Queen      .         ,           .    ,          ,     .

          .   ,    ,        ,     .                   .    ,  -     ,     .         ,          .      ,      .








              VII.    The Queen 1910 ,      S-     .



    (,       ) ,      .        ,   ,     ,   .                .         ,  ,  .

      ,        .       ,      ,          .   ,         ,     ,       .  1911    Triangle Shirtwaist Factory -    146 ,      -.       ,          .     1913     ,        ,      .         .       ,        ,     .                ,      (Designed in America).     Womens Wear 1916          .








      -   .








  ⠫, 1917.






 

       ,        .      ,     .          ,       .

 -      (18921974).              .           ,        .          ,          ,    .       ,       .  1919       United Artists.

 ,  (18931993)  (18981968),    ,   .        .   (18991983)          ,    ,    .        . ,      .       ,      (18821967),  ,    .    -,   ,                蠫,    .

  (18851955),     ,     (  )        .              ,         . ,     ,                 .

      ,      .   (18751938)    .     (Max Factor),     .        ,        .        (make-up)    (     ).


          ,     . Harrods,   ,      - 1914.      Myer,   ,   David Jones Company.




 


    ,        ,    .        ,        .    ,      ,    ,    .                   .

    ,        La Gazette du Bon Ton,        .    1912      : , , , ,  .      .          -,   -  ,  , ,      .    , La Gazette   ,     ,     .  Les Modes  ,          . Les Modes     ,        .  Femina               .         ?,                .  Les Modes,  Femina      .








       Les Modes   1913     Bou Soeurs   .








           Vogue    , 1 1914.



The Queen      .        ,          .       ,  ,       ,          .       ,   ,    蠫 ,      .       ,       ,       .

  Ladies Home Journal    McCalls         .           The Delineator: A Journal of Fashion Culture and Fine Arts. Vogue Harpers Bazar        .   Vogue    ,   , . . . ,     .  ( . . ).

       ,      .   1890    .         1911,       Art et Dcoration       .       Vogue 1913  1921,     Harpers Bazar.          ,       .




 蠫 -


,  ,       ,  -,     .  -     -       ,      ,            .       ,   (Coterie) 蠫  (Bloomsbury Group).   1910-            ,              .        ,    : ,               ,    Vanity Fair   1916.

  ,      , , ,      .      ,   ⠫ ,   ,  ,   ,      .          . ,    ,        .          ,          , ,         .         ,       . ,         (   ).              .      ,      The Queen.








 Vogue     1914,      .



      ,        Femina.         - XX.         ,       1920- .




  


          .     ,         .     ,      : , XVIII    .

           : , , ,   .        ,        .  , ,           .    1910-           ,      ,   蠫 .   XVI          .        XVIII.    .          ,          . -   ,      ,   .       .   -   -.








    Femina  15  1910     .       ,  , ,      .



S- 1911  .           ,        .    .         ,    ,      .          .   ,          ,   ,          .       .                ,   ,     .       ,  ,    .      ,         ,   .   ,      ,     - 1850- .

        .    ,          .     ,        ,   .        .   1900-    ,        .  V-    ,   1880-         .       .     ,        .








  ,   Femina (15  1913)   ,       ,        .



   ,       .     (      ,   ,  , ),        .        .       ,   ,      .       ,       ,        .

 19121913     .        - .           .      .    ,  ,    .       ,         -.        ,             .         ,     ,  .     ,  ,    .    ,     ,   -  .    ,    .         .

       1830-     .  ,   ,   .        XVI   .     ,     .      .   1916  Vogue ,         XVI,        1870-     1916.   New York Times, 1916     .     ,       ,    ,    [19 - Worth Allows Styles of the Days of Empress Eugenie to Suggest Leading Silhouette and Control Richness of Fabrics Used, The New York Times (March 19, 1916), p. X3.].               .        ,         .     ,              ,       a la  .








 . . .    Vogue   1915     .   ,  ,           XVIII.








              .                Mme Jenny.








    ,    Sears 1919, ,   .     .      .



   ,    .     ,   . ,      ,     ,    .             ,     . 1910-      ,       ,    ,    .     -,    ,    .       .  -      ,    -       .

            .            .      .          .      ,      .          ,   ,      ,     .    XVIII    .




 


                  .           . -    ,   .           蠫,         .          .

           -   .    .       ,      ,   .      .       ,      .

 ,       ,    Burberry Aquascutum   ,  .          .           , , ,   .            .           ,   ,   .   .    ,     ,   .      .       ,       .




  


           . ʠ1910   ,        .        ,         .

     ,            .        -.    ,     .    ,      .      ,    .      ,   ,       ,  .      ,  ,       .   ,    ,   .   ,     ,   ,      ,   .













 1918        ,   ,          Cheney Silk.








 ,   ,        (),   .   LaGazette du Bon Ton 1912 ().



    ,               ( , ,      ). ʠ1913     .          ,         .      ,           .  ,          ,      ,     .         .           ,    .

     ,      ,   .    ,         .       ,   .            .        .       ,     .          .    ,    .




   


, -,          .   ,      ,    .       ,  ,   ,          ,   .








   John Wanamaker  / 1918    , -    .



S-  ,     ,    .                .     ,      .     ,       .      .       :             ,     .       ,       .    .        ,        ,   . ,  , ,   ,      .      ,       ,  .

      ,   ,   -  .            ,        .         ,     .          ,     ,      .      ,           .            ,  ,  ,








    Weingarten Bros. Ladies Home Journal.       ,  S-,    1910- .



       ,      , ,   ,   .    ,       ,   ,    .  Liberty       .  - ,    ,    Jaeger,     .        ,        .   1911   The Queen  ,             , ,   .




 


       .     ,      .   ,     ,     .  ,  La Gazette du Bon Ton   Sears,    .        .      ,  toilettes de sport,    ,    .        ,            .       , ,     .     ,   .        .

    ,        .           .                    ,      .      ,      ,         .             .         ,       .       .      -        .

,     ,     ,   ,          .           ,         .     ,      ,    ,          .     ,   ,  .      Portland Knitting Company                ,  ,      .

       ,    ,    .         ,     XVIII.    ,     ,         ,           .    ,   ,  .







      ,      La Gazette du Bon Ton. ,        .  ,    -  (18811962),    ,    .        -  .  Redfern Ltd.       ,  ,   .

 1910      Lucile Ltd. -,      .  1911    ,  :                [20 - Lady Duff Gordon, Discretions and Indiscretions (New York: Frederick A. Stokes Company, 1932), p. 205.].            ,   Les Modes.        .   -   ,  14  1912 ,            .  ,     ,  ,           .  ,      . -       .








         Lucile (Les Modes,  1914)       1920- .








             .    1 1911   Femina.



              ,     ,          .           ,        .       .      ,      .

 1914  1919    -,    ,  1915   .         Sears       Harpers Bazar Ladies Home Journal.         ,         .          ,           .








  (. 1915).








  (. 1918).






 Ƞ

        .          ,      1909,             .

    (18771927)     .       ,         .    -      ,         .       ,   .            ,        .            .       ,   1927 - ,        .         .

            ,     -    --.        .       ,    ,        XIX.        :   ,    ,      (   robe en culotte).          ,       .       .        ,        .  ,      ,    .            .      .        Femina 1911:

                    .  ,   ,    ,  ,   ,   ,  ,   ,    .

        ,          .   1906,        1911.           .  ,        .          .  1915   ,     ,      ,     .       Lucile  Callot,       . ,      -,  1918,    ,       ,           .


                . ʠ1910        .       .         ,    , ,    .    -     .              (Les Choses de Paul Poiret, 1911)        .         .       (1911) 蠫 (1913).       24  1911     ⠫    ,    .     ⠫ . ,     ,   ,       .   1910-      - (robe-pantalon),      (robe sultane),    ,    ,  -   .   (     )       .      ,        .

   ,      .     1913     .  Wanamaker         .         ,     .  1911,     ,      .            ,       .      .         ,  ,   ,       .      ,     (1912)     .








     1910.








      -  1912.



      1914 (    )            ---,  ,  ,  ,      .      1907      New York Times     .     ,  1911            .          .          1911,       ,    .         ,        .      ,         .  ,     ,        . ʠ1912     -    (Paquin & Joire).    ,       .  1915   -.   ,        .        .

  ,     .       .          ,      .     ,  1913              .    ,      .   ,        ---,   1912.               .                 ,     .         1913,         XX      .           ,    1917  1919.








         Les Modes   1914.        .








          .    Les Modes, 1912.



          .             .   1911       ,     .      ,     ,     ,   ,      .    ,    ,     -.        ,    .        -  1915 -.

    (Callot Soeurs)      1914.   ,     ,  .       .         ,         ,  ,        ,       .     ,      -  1911.








    1914    ,    .  .. La Gazette du Bon Ton,  1914.



  (Georges Doeuillet, 18651929)       1890-       1900 .                   [21 - Lees, p. 121.].     ,   La Gazette du Bon Ton.      ,    ,   .        .       1920- .

  (Madeleine Chruit,  1935)     1906,      Raudnitz. ʠ1910           , La Gazette du Bon Ton       .      1914 New York Times       ,       .        ,     ,    :    ,        ,     ,      ,  ,  [22 - Cheruit Features the Full Skirt, hich, It Is Prophesied, Will Be as Successful as Was the Pannier Skirt, The New York Times (March 15, 1914), p. X2.].








      ,   ,    La Gazette du Bon Ton,  1914.



        ,       .             .           ,         1920- .

 Drecoll      .  Les Modes        ,       .   (Soeurs Bou),  ,              .           ,     .       .  - ,  1915,     ,      .  Bechoff-David  ,        .     -  - (1911),             .         ,    New York Times, Les Modes Femina.          Mme Jenny, Maison Agn?s, Maison Rouff, Martial et Armand Cauet Soeurs.               .

  1911,      (18921990)    (Ert).     .              .  -      1914,      ,   Henri Bendels Altmans.  1914    Harpers Bazar,     ,    Vogue.

          ,  -.   ,         ,    .              [23 - Guillermo De Osma, Mariano Fortuny: His Life and Work (New York: Rizzoli, 1980), p. 138.].       (Maria Monaci Gallenga, 18801944).         ,  -       .   ,  ,   (Vitaldi Babani,     18951940),        ,    .








      Drecoll,  Les Modes   1910,      .








  -      (. 1913)   ,      .



          - (Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill, 18821961). -           .            .

    (Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, 18821961)   ,     .       .      ,    ,       . Ӡ     ,             .               1909     .  1910               .              ,         .             ,      ,      .       ,       .       ,      Redfern Ltd.,    .    ,      .    ,       ,      .        1915,   ,     .         .

    (  )    .        .      ,          .           ,         .    , ,          .            .            ,     .  ,  1919    .








        Max Meyer ,        (. 1916).




 


        ,       .      ,      .   1904   ,  1910-      .     ,   ,   ,       ,             .

     .   1913 Vogue           ,    ,  ,        ,   .              ,        ,    .       ,  ,    ,   ,      .








      1918     .             .



        .   (Helena Rubinstein, 18701965),   ,      ,    ,   . ʠ1915         ,  -.     (  -)    .       ,       .     (Elizabeth Arden, 18841966)         .      . ,  , ,       .  ⠫ ,            - 1910       ,  .     ,      (Madam C. J. Walker, 18671919),     ,    .  1910 1920    Madam Walker    ,     ,    .     ,    .      -,            .      ,                   .           .




  


        .       ,       .    ,  - ,        ,  -   ,     .       .      ,                .      .     ,              .  ,    ,      ,   ,    .      ,   ,    1913   1917. ,   ,    Tielocken  Burberry,       .           ,           .

     -      ( )  ,   -    . ,           .  Vogue   ,     .    ,   ,        Royal Worcester.  Wanamaker       1918      :               .   ,    ,         ,   .        ,          .              . , ,    ,          .     ,    ,      ,            XX.








            1918.         .








    .          .



       .      :        , ,        ,     .




 


      XIX   .    Henry Pool,    -, ,  1914   [24 - Quoted in Stephen Howarth, Henry Poole: Founders of Savile Row (London: Bene Factum Publishing, 2003), p. 90.].     ,  ,       ,   .

-           .         ,       .   . ,   ,     ,     .    ,           .     .  ,    ,     .   : ,     ,   ,     ,      .          -,   .








    American Gentleman,   ,    ,           / 19171918    .



            ,         .        ,     ,          ,   .  1917   American Gentleman ,  ,    ,     ,  .    ,      -   .         -,   .      ,   -          . ,      ,         ,     .

    28  1919 -   , -          . -           ,        . New York Times ,           ,   1870,           [25 - Major Gen. Sir Frederick Maurice, Contrasts Signing with 1870 Ceremony, The New York Times (June 29, 1919), p. 3.]. New York Times ,          .




 


    ,    ,      .     ,        .    ,      .  -      . ,     ,       ,       ,   .        .                .      ,   ,      .        ,        .








  1911         .      .








       ,      (. 1914).








              ,          John Wanamaker 1918.








       Pictorial Review 1916      .  ,  ,  ,        ,     .      .



        ,    ,   ,      .        ,   ,   ,     .           .        .        ,    ,  ,   -.       ,     .            .

       ,               .          .   ,       .        .        .       ,            .          ,     ,       1910- ,        .








     (.1916).      ,         .






 


  1910-         .          ,   :    .   (Jean Patou, 18801936),     ,      1910.         1914-,      .         1919.              .           1920- .   (Lucien Lelong, 18891958)        ,   ,   ,   .  1918 ,   ,       .      .          .

      .      ,       .       .   1918 1919    ,        .    ,           .     ,       .     ,       .  -   ,      .   ,   -        .








    .        .   . .  Les Modes et Mani?res dAujourdhui, 1919.




  .


   .

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notes








1


Norman Lebrecht, Who Killed Classical Music?: Maestros, Managers, and Corporate Politics (New York: Citadel Press, 1997), p. 40.




2


Dress Improvers Downed, The Daily Telegraph (November 2, 1888), p. 2.




3


Princess Pauline Metternich, My Years in Paris (London: Eveleigh Nash & Grayson, 1922), p. 58.




4


Sara Elisabeth Hume, Charles Frederick Worth: A Study in the Relationship between the Parisian Fashion Industry and the Lyonnais Silk Industry 18581889. Unpublished Master of Arts thesis (SUNY Fashion Institute of Technology, 2003), p. 10.




5


Empress Elizabeth [sic], Her Tragic Death Last Summer  New Light on Her Life, The New York Times (March 18, 1899), p. 23.




6


Many Women in Mourning  Closing of Mr. Felixs Dress-Making Establishment the Cause, The Pittsburgh Press (June 30, 1901), p. 15.




7


Exhibition signage, Reveal or Conceal?/ Dvoiler ou Dissimuler? (Montreal: McCord Museum/Musee McCord, February 22, 2008January 18, 2009). See also www.musee-mccord.qc.ca/expositions/expositionsXSL.php?lang=1&expoId=47&currSectionId=2




8


Elizabeth Ann Coleman, The Opulent Era: Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat (New York and London: Brooklyn Museum with Thames & Hudson, 1989), p. 29.




9


Standard Designer (November 1896), p. 78.




10


Lourdes Font, International couture: The opportunities and challenges of expansion, 18801920, Business History 54:1 (2012), p. 31.




11


Coleman, p. 146.




12


Sandra Barwick, A Century of Style (London: George Allen & Unwin, 1984), p. 53.




13


Frederic Lees, The Evolution of Paris Fashions: An Inquiry, The Pall Mall Magazine, vol. XXVII (May-August 1902), p. 116.




14


Font, p. 31.




15


Robert Forrest Wilson, The House of Drecoll, Vogue (November 15, 1925), p. 34.




16


Paul Poiret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret, transl. by Stephen Haden Guest (Philadelphia & London: J.B. Lippincott Company, 1931), p. 93.




17


Font, pp. 3536.




18


Ella Adelia Fletcher, The Woman Beautiful: A Practical Treatise on the Development and Preservation of Womans Health and Beauty, and the Principles of Taste in Dress (New York: Brentanos, 1901), p. 410.




19


Worth Allows Styles of the Days of Empress Eugenie to Suggest Leading Silhouette and Control Richness of Fabrics Used, The New York Times (March 19, 1916), p. X3.




20


Lady Duff Gordon, Discretions and Indiscretions (New York: Frederick A. Stokes Company, 1932), p. 205.




21


Lees, p. 121.




22


Cheruit Features the Full Skirt, hich, It Is Prophesied, Will Be as Successful as Was the Pannier Skirt, The New York Times (March 15, 1914), p. X2.




23


Guillermo De Osma, Mariano Fortuny: His Life and Work (New York: Rizzoli, 1980), p. 138.




24


Quoted in Stephen Howarth, Henry Poole: Founders of Savile Row (London: Bene Factum Publishing, 2003), p. 90.




25


Major Gen. Sir Frederick Maurice, Contrasts Signing with 1870 Ceremony, The New York Times (June 29, 1919), p. 3.


